TC lock up Selenoid replacement

96_Lincoln_LSC

96_Lincoln_LSC

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:mad: does anyone have a step by step document on the replacement of this selenoid? I am very comfortable ripping the engine apart and just about anyhting else on the car...

I really hate the thought of ripping into the trans.. how dificult is the replacement of this selenoid? should I also replace the 1-2 shift accumulator as well? its a 96..

The original problem is a bog down/surge, (sometimes) coming to a stop off oh highway driving.. I have been told that it could be a TCC selenoid....

I'm currnetly lost with this. Also is there a chance of real damage to anything else during normal driving other then the possiblity of stalling out? I have to use this on a daily basis.. 84 mile round trip.

I see the part is only 20 to 30 bucks but installation could be rough...:mad:
 
I'm fairly certain that you only have to drop the tranny pan to replace the TCC Solenoid.

vb_sol.jpg
 
Both parts are simple to swap. I have done it and it takes longer to remove the pan bolts and drain the fluid than it does to swap out those parts.

This is the 98 trans when I had it apart.

98tranny001.jpg


98tranny-1004.jpg


Easiest thing I ever swapped in my life.
 
Ok so the good news is this then, I only have to drop the pan NOT the Valve body???

Only have to drop the VB if Im replacing the 1-2 accumulator? Selenoid is easily accessible from on the ground? (Driveway Mechanic) Lol
 
Yes, like said above the pan is harder to remove than it is to replace the solenoid. You may have to drop the filter out too, i'd replace that while I was in there.
 
DieselDan said:
Yes, like said above the pan is harder to remove than it is to replace the solenoid. You may have to drop the filter out too, i'd replace that while I was in there.
Click to expand...

Does the Shift selenoid have to be removed to get to the TCC? Bummer too, I dont see a listing at Autozone either as I have a credit with them too.


Do I have to replace the filter and gasket as I just had them done about a year ago.. should they still be in good shape? i had the trans services less then 30K ago. approx 8 months travel.
Thanks
Bill
 
If you got the hard plastic trans pan gasket, then you don't have to replace it because its reusable. If you got the fluid changed not too long ago, i'd consider reusing the old filter, but thats just me, most here would probably tell me I'm wrong on that, but anywho...

When you drop the pan and take the filter off you will be staring at the solenoid. It has 1 bolt holds it in place, you pop the old one out, pop in a new one, bolt it in, put the filter and pan on, and fill'er up.
 
Remove the bottom cooler line at radiator, slip a piece of hose over the hard line, route it to a bucket, start the car, see the fluid flow in to the bucket, when it starts to slow down, shut down the engine, reattach the hard line to rad. Drop the pan, no fluid in there to get in your hair, replace the TCC, clean the pan, and gasket, torque pan bolts, re-fill the trans fluid (reuse your old fluid from the bucket if it's really that fresh), go for a ride. Not a drip on the floor or your head ;)
 
m_maker said:
Remove the bottom cooler line at radiator, slip a piece of hose over the hard line, route it to a bucket, start the car, see the fluid flow in to the bucket, when it starts to slow down, shut down the engine, reattach the hard line to rad. Drop the pan, no fluid in there to get in your hair, replace the TCC, clean the pan, and gasket, torque pan bolts, re-fill the trans fluid (reuse your old fluid from the bucket if it's really that fresh), go for a ride. Not a drip on the floor or your head ;)
Click to expand...

I like the way you think my man...
 
m_maker said:
Remove the bottom cooler line at radiator, slip a piece of hose over the hard line, route it to a bucket, start the car, see the fluid flow in to the bucket, when it starts to slow down, shut down the engine, reattach the hard line to rad. Drop the pan, no fluid in there to get in your hair, replace the TCC, clean the pan, and gasket, torque pan bolts, re-fill the trans fluid (reuse your old fluid from the bucket if it's really that fresh), go for a ride. Not a drip on the floor or your head ;)
Click to expand...

My only question is this,
Doing this, wont that allow the car to run dry and cause some internal damage to the transmission as there is no fluid? causeing the clutch plates to rub dry with excessive friction?
I'm all up for easy solutions to no mess but any possibility of damage as a result of this procedure? I had thought of doing this to the P/S pump as well to flush the system.
 
Well, the method of draining the pan via the trans line I'm sure is an at your own risk kind of thing. You don't have to worry about your clutches or anything during the procedure because none of those parts are moving... The only part moving while the car is in park is the pump itself. As long as you don't let it run dry for more than a few seconds, I see no harm.
 
96_Lincoln_LSC said:
Only have to drop the VB if Im replacing the 1-2 accumulator? Selenoid is easily accessible from on the ground? (Driveway Mechanic) Lol
Click to expand...

No, the valve body does not have to be removed for the 1-2 accumulator replacement. See pic above. See the round thing in the bottom right hand corner? It is held in with a round clip that will require clip ring pliers to remove. Use a C-clamp to put just enough pressure to push the piston in and the clip can then be removed much easier and it won't jump out at you. It is spring loaded with 2 springs. One blue and one purple. If you were doing the 2-3 accumulator, then yes, you would be removing the valve body.
 
NoLimit95 said:
No, the valve body does not have to be removed for the 1-2 accumulator replacement. See pic above. See the round thing in the bottom right hand corner? It is held in with a round clip that will require clip ring pliers to remove. Use a C-clamp to put just enough pressure to push the piston in and the clip can then be removed much easier and it won't jump out at you. It is spring loaded with 2 springs. One blue and one purple. If you were doing the 2-3 accumulator, then yes, you would be removing the valve body.
Click to expand...

1-2 is the most problematic one? correct.. I assume I should replace it.
Thanks
Bill
 
I would and did on the 94 but I had already let it go too far so it didn't do much good for me. If I had thought about it, I would have taken the piston and springs out before I gave the Mexican the transmission. I paid nearly $70 for all the parts from my local Ford part dept. I'm sure it can be bought cheaper. Yes, it is the most probematic Bill.
 
I love this site!

I got a check trans light, pulled the codes and its the TCC solenoid not locking up. Didnt have any idea how to fix it, made a post on another site a few days ago and no response. I'm on here for 5 minutes and got all the answers I need.

Thanks!
 
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