sway bar bushings

MONTE 02 LS

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Hi all, I've been searching around on the site and am a little confused, I have an 02 LS non-sport and have seen 27mm and 28mm. Was woundering which one is the best fit, ES has them both listed. Thanks for the help
 
people were arguing about it in the last thread. probably going to get more of the same here.

your best bet would be to measure your bar.
 
I think it goes by the VIN...??

I have an 02 V8 that I am needing to rebuild the suspension on. All the bushings and rubbers on the joints are shot.

Does anyone know the best route to go? If there is performance parts please provide links. I've seen some pictures of adjustable upper control arms but can't find where to buy them.
And how are the rebuild kits on ebay for about $300? They seem to include most of the parts.
 
Sway bar diameter is dependent on trim (just sport/nonsport) and engine. As stated, the most reliable way to figure it out is just to measure it.

I can't imagine adjustable UCAs being worth the time, money, effort, and results on a car like the LS.

You can upgrade sway bar bushing material to ES polys, but then the sway bar can slide horizontally a bit which I think is an equal trade off. People usually go the ES route when they have the molded-on bushings. If your sway bar has not been replaced and you should have removable bushings (being a Gen 1), you can get new Rein rubber bushings from FCP Euro(not sure if they have non-sport bushings). I'm satisfied with mine.

If you think the car would handle better without the passive rear steering, you can swap out your rear toe links (AKA lateral links, tie rods) with a set from Deeza P/N JAL607. They have stiffer joints on the outside end and don't flex as much. I've had mine in for a day and can't feel a difference. The back end still feels delayed when coming around a tight, fast turn. I don't really care because this is the hardest-turning car in my fleet and no one else expects it to handle nearly as well as it does.

But in reality, you're not going to improve the suspension much. Lowering springs and sticky tires, AFTER repairing damaged joints and bushings, are your best bet. The Eibach springs may lower it too much. I saw somewhere that the LS engineers said it handles best 3/4" lower. Eibachs drop it 1.5". I have no context to tell you if that 3/4" figure includes a balance of daily driving/comfort or just handling. This ain't no M5
 
^ Well put Frankly I must say. I can tell you've been taking notes.
 
like the kind of half rings that need to be unbolted to get the old bushing out?

what does it look like from the top?
 
Yes, those are suppose to be there. you have to undo the bolts on the bracket to be able to get the bushing off.

Your 02 LS is a 1st GEN and on those the swaybar bushings have a split in the middle so they can be replaced, 2nd GEN's need to be cut off or whole new sway bar purchased.

The diameter of your sway bar can be measured with a vernier caliper.

kiit7426-2.jpg














--- Not applicable to your non-sport LS ---

I have an 01 LS Sport, when I replaced my sway bar bushings, I went with ES 30mm bushings, only to later hear from another LVC member that they are not a good fit, they are too narrow and will slide side to side before they are stopped by the flange you mentioned above.

The solution for a 1st GEN Sport is to pick up a set of Jaguar Rein #XR819697 30mm bushings from FCP Euro.

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jaguar-suspension-stabilizer-bar-mount-xr819697
(note that if ordering from there, you have to order qty 2, it's not a set as illustrated)


more: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?90673-Sway-Bar-Bushings-00-LS-V6-Non-Sport

kiit7426-2.jpg
 
^ Well put Frankly I must say. I can tell you've been taking notes.

Haha, I try. I don't know if I'm becoming a "senior" member or if this has been a bad two weeks, but the repetitiveness of some of these posts is getting to be a bit annoying (TWO misfire/coils threads on the first page?). I realize it's a compound issue where it becomes harder and harder to find relevant threads. "LS misfire" and "LS coil" both have 20 pages of search results. "LS Accel" has 7 pages. Your best hope is that someone puts a link in the first few pages to the most helpful thread. I had some difficulty finding LSD info, but I believe I just found the parts list. I didn't realize the Gen 1 just needs an LSD unit. The MkVIII 8.8 conversion is only necessary when you want different gearing.

As for being Frank with this issue, someone has to be. If a person wants to upgrade their suspension, they obviously want to push the car harder. That's fine. Most of us here want to push it because that's the kind of enthusiast crowd the LS draws. But driving with worn out components is already a big safety issue. Drive the car harder and it becomes a MAJOR issue. I feel guilty for not addressing my UCAs quickly because when I took my passenger one out, I found out I could move the stud by hand in the ball joint and get a slight clanking sound. Instead of just the force of turning stressing the member, now it builds up momentum as it moves inside the joint and has much more force. If I kept ignoring it, maybe the stud would have sheared like fudge12's lowers. Scary. This car is way too special to me to lose like that.
 
Right you are, with any car you have to keep the maintenance up, things need checking, can't just keep putting fuel & oil in it while ignoring the rest.

In my younger years, I had a POS Cutlas, coming around a bend, SNAP ... pulled over, passenger side front wheel pointing inwards, how fun that tow to a garage was!
 
Right you are, with any car you have to keep the maintenance up, things need checking, can't just keep putting fuel & oil in it while ignoring the rest.

In my younger years, I had a POS Cutlas, coming around a bend, SNAP ... pulled over, passenger side front wheel pointing inwards, how fun that tow to a garage was!

Adding oil:
gif-woman-oil-car-762646.gif


But yeah, now imagine that snapping when you're doing 70mph on a 35mph jug handle (or 110km/h on a 55km/h Jersey left to you, Rig)
 
... How do I slide new polys on over over those flanges?

They have a split in them so you can open them and slide them over/around the bar, then the brackets goes back on and clamps it into place.

W22788G-360-small-01-01.jpg

See the split ?

W22788G-360-small-01-01.jpg
 
As for adjustable upper control arms. I was looking for camber adjustment. Mainly since I have been reading the thread about the Stance coil overs and saw there were some camber issues when lowering. I lost my way in the thread so maybe this was resolved??
 
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This may be an old subject...but
Does anyone know if there are stock ride height replacement coil springs available aside from Ford parts?
 
This may be an old subject...but
Does anyone know if there are stock ride height replacement coil springs available aside from Ford parts?

Nope. Having them custom made by a local shop may be an option. They should also be able to make a spring to your specifications for less money than the factory springs. We have a place that makes springs nearby. Look for a mobility shop.
 
From reading many threads on this subject, I've gathered that gen 1
non-sport(V6 or V8) have the 28.5mm sway bar versus the sport package
which have the 30mm bar. Perhaps this is also true for the gen 2, but, does
not apply to me since I have the gen 1.

I have found on flea Bay bushings that may apply for my needs. In the discription,
they mention this Ford part number as an exact match XW4Z5493SP. I have done some
research, but no one mentions diameter. They only refer to it as 'non-sport bush'.

Are my assumptions accurate, or do I need a kick in the head as many other newbies ?
Please be gentle...:p
 
For those that have done it on the gen II how difficult was it to cut them off? I'm just concerned about space. I remember on my Gen I there wasn't much room. What did you use? Cut off wheel? Dremmel? Sawzall?
 
For those that have done it on the gen II how difficult was it to cut them off? I'm just concerned about space. I remember on my Gen I there wasn't much room. What did you use? Cut off wheel? Dremmel? Sawzall?

Pain in the ass...

there is no room at all, couldn't get a small cut off wheel on either my straight or 90* die grinders. had to use a dremel with the little miniature cut off wheels, not too hard to reach but the steel is thick. took forever to cut, wheels kept breaking, think I uses a pack(ten wheels to a pack) and a half and about an hour to a hour and a half to cut them both off.
 
Pain in the ass...

there is no room at all, couldn't get a small cut off wheel on either my straight or 90* die grinders. had to use a dremel with the little miniature cut off wheels, not too hard to reach but the steel is thick. took forever to cut, wheels kept breaking, think I uses a pack(ten wheels to a pack) and a half and about an hour to a hour and a half to cut them both off.

Thanks, I'm doing the ball joints/tie rods/end links etc on it right now was thinking of doing bushings while I'm at it....but I think I'll hold off and wait to see how it feels when I'm done with all of this first.
 
when those bussings need to be replaced, trust me, they tell you loud and clear!
 

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