Suspension Shopping List

How was the build quality of that Moog upper control arm? You ordered the "R" version which is their budget version designed to compete with Mevotech and DP. All I keep asking myself is how can they shave $20-30 off a part which just has bushings and a ball joint. It's always driven me away a little because of it.

I haven't gotten it on the car yet because I'm still waiting for FordPartsGiant to ship :):cough:: it's been over two weeks ::cough::). But the Mood part looks at least on par with the Motorcraft. The bushings do not appear to be of lesser quality (that I can see) and the metal seems to be at least as dense as the Motorcraft, possibly slightly moreso.
 
Much cheaper here: http://ahwooga.com/car-and-truck-pa...rm-hydrabushes-bushing-bushings-set-of-4.html
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What about the rear lower control arm's ? High $ item and the cause of squeaking on my 2000 non-sport.
I am considering replacing the bushings and was about to post a thread very similar to yours but just may piggy back for now and see what happens.
Duetchparts items i am considering.....
2000 Lincoln LS Base 3.9L rear lower control arms

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I know a few people are looking at doing these, but am waiting to hear some feedback.
 
I haven't gotten it on the car yet because I'm still waiting for FordPartsGiant to ship :):cough:: it's been over two weeks ::cough::). But the Mood part looks at least on par with the Motorcraft. The bushings do not appear to be of lesser quality (that I can see) and the metal seems to be at least as dense as the Motorcraft, possibly slightly moreso.
Just in case anyone was wondering, 6+ years later the Motorcraft UCA is still solid and performing well while its Moog counterpart on the other side has had it bushings completely shredded and separated.
 
Just in case anyone was wondering, 6+ years later the Motorcraft UCA is still solid and performing well while its Moog counterpart on the other side has had it bushings completely shredded and separated.
How many miles and how many pumps of grease did the Moog get serviced with?
 
Being the Original meticulous owner of my 2003 Lincoln LS V8 Sport the entire control arms (front/rear, upper and lower) were replaced under the extended factory warranty ... a few years ago (2019) and it drives and rides like new.
I also installed Sachs shocks, specific to the LS, and new shock isolators.
The OEM sport shocks were kept ...

Suspension bushings and shocks wear ... and on EVERY CAR ... after near 100,000 miles (and much LESS on the German ones!) ... what keep a car like new is doing this maintenance. Once done, you're good for the next 80-100k miles !
 
How many miles and how many pumps of grease did the Moog get serviced with?
The control arm rubber bushings aren't greaseable. The ball joint doesn't have a grease fitting but I'm sure could be greased if you really want to. Interestingly, the Moog ball joint was probably ok without any noticable play. It's been about 40,000+ miles since I installed it, but it's been clunking for a long time so the bushings probably failed closer to 25,000 or 30,000 miles.
 
The control arm rubber bushings aren't greaseable. The ball joint doesn't have a grease fitting but I'm sure could be greased if you really want to. Interestingly, the Moog ball joint was probably ok without any noticable play. It's been about 40,000+ miles since I installed it, but it's been clunking for a long time so the bushings probably failed closer to 25,000 or 30,000 miles.
Interesting, i put some Moog parts on mine but they all had zerks. I see lots of people complaining about Moog not lasting on here, figured they just never greased them, ha.
 
Interesting, i put some Moog parts on mine but they all had zerks. I see lots of people complaining about Moog not lasting on here, figured they just never greased them, ha.
I have the Moog sway bar links and tie rod ends and those have grease fittings. The control arms don't though. Neither do their press-in lower ball joints.
 
Interesting, i put some Moog parts on mine but they all had zerks. I see lots of people complaining about Moog not lasting on here, figured they just never greased them, ha.

Moog has 2 different lines of parts. "R" and "K". The K line parts are heavy duty and include grease fiitings on most parts.
 
I called my shop and they wanted to take a look at it before writing up a quote. I'm planning to take it in on Saturday. I did make clear that I would generally prefer to do the work myself but am short on time, and that I still may opt to do some or all of the work myself. They're fantastic about that sort of thing, and that's a big reason I trust them with my cars. (They always let me in the garage to watch/talk with the mechanic, which I also appreciate.)

I said that I would prefer not to buy all new control arms and knuckles just to get new bushings and ball joints, but those components have to be pressed out and in and I may not have the ability to do that without risking damage to the aluminum parts. They said if I prefer to do my own work, they would be happy to press in new ball joints and bushings for me.

So we'll see what they suggest on Saturday. In the meantime, I've got to make sure I have good information about what replacement control arm bushings are available.
PRESS EM OUT , ARBOR PRESS CAN , AUTO MACHINE SHOP ABSOLUTELY COULD. tHEY WERE PRESSED IN, THEY CAN BE PRESSED OUT. mUCH LESS$
 
Only problem with all of this... is that Ford doesn't sell the bushings separately. That means new control arm... unless they can be sourced individually from Jaguar.

Moog has a couple bushings for the rear lower arms... that's it. The bushings are a bear to get out regarless of availability.

A few members on here have done it with a large steel cup... heavy duty bolt and washers... and drew the bushing out of the arm and into the cup. Same method to draw the new bushing into the arm. Urethane bushings are available through aftermarket, (Power Flex is one), but urethane bushings come with their own caveats.

Labor intensive no matter how you look at it... so not cheap to pay a shop to do.
 
I am about to undertake a complete overhaul of the front and rear suspension on my '02 V8 sport. I don't know when it was serviced last, I can see torn/worn boots all around, and it's starting to squeak/clunk. I want to replace all wear items. I've searched and read extensively on these forums for everything I think I will need and have tried my best to source high-quality replacement parts at the best prices.

Below is what I am getting ready to buy. I would very much appreciate it if some of the veterans could take a moment to peruse the list and let me know what if anything I am leaving out. Also, if you have any comments about the parts/prices I'd welcome those as well. Thanks!

PartNumberBrandQtyRockautoTascaAmazon
Ball Joint, Lower (Front) (16mm)K500085MOOG2$33.79
Control Arm (complete), Upper (Front Left)RK621665MOOG1$101.79
Control Arm (complete), Upper (Front Right)RK621666 MOOG1$101.79
Control Arm (complete), Upper (Rear Left)3063301Lemforder1$115.79
Control Arm (complete), Upper (Rear Right)3063401Lemforder1$115.79
Control Arm (complete), Lower (Front Right)RK80736MOOG1$193.79$166.58
Control Arm (complete), Lower (Front Left)RK80737MOOG1$193.79$182.40
Tie Rod End, Outer (Front Left)ES800415MOOG1$35.79$35.62
Tie Rod End, Outer (Front Right)ES800414MOOG1$35.79$36.64
Tie Rod End, Inner (Front Left)EV452MOOG1$28.79$32.16
Tie Rod End, Inner (Front Right)EV453MOOG1$28.79$31.61
Stabilizer Bar Bushing
Stabilizer Links (front)K80261MOOG2$27.79$27.30
Stabilizer Links, Left (rear)K80246MOOG1$30.79
Stabilizer Links, Right (rear)K80245MOOG1$30.79
Lateral (toe) link6W4Z-5B551-AAMotorcraft2$119.23
Shocks (front) (GREEN)6W4Z18124DMotorcraft2$83.79
Shocks (rear) (PURPLE)AT705GMotorcraft2$40.99
Shock Mounts (front)3W4318183AEMotorcraft2$38.79
Shock Mounts (rear)3W4Z18197AAMotorcraft2$47.79
ain't supply and demand a beautiful thing.
It aint no art, look at gas when its unbalanced or any other goods. Supply /demand dosen't care
 
Only problem with all of this... is that Ford doesn't sell the bushings separately. That means new control arm... unless they can be sourced individually from Jaguar.

Moog has a couple bushings for the rear lower arms... that's it. The bushings are a bear to get out regarless of availability.

A few members on here have done it with a large steel cup... heavy duty bolt and washers... and drew the bushing out of the arm and into the cup. Same method to draw the new bushing into the arm. Urethane bushings are available through aftermarket, (Power Flex is one), but urethane bushings come with their own caveats.

Labor intensive no matter how you look at it... so not cheap to pay a shop to do.
Go to a bearings supplier in your neck of the woods. I bought bearings for a sears snow blower for the axels cost 4 +change . Over buying the axel housings 2x33.00=66.00. Just google bear suppliers. Take the old part to them once you locate the distributor.The bearing can be pressed out at a auto machine shop and your new press fitted into the control arms. Bingo save hundreds.
 
There are no bearings in the control arms. Very different from a snow blower axle.

The outer sleeve of the bushing is larger in diameter than the hole in the control arm. ("interference fit") to keep them from coming out (walking).

Arbor press won't have enough pressure to install the bushings.

Now if you mean shop press... then possible but still tricky.

Again... there are a few threads on here where members swapped bushings manually with a home designed tool.

Ball joint removal tool may work also... with the proper cups.
 
fun fact: the 16mm lower ball joint originates from the 2001 Aston Martin V12 Vanquish. after the gen 1 s-type left production, the LS and T-Bird got upgraded to the bigger ball joint.
 

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