Some advice on Spark Plug brand/grade?

lincoln_zero

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2005 LS V8. Needs the worx. I was told to stay away from Bosch for the LS's. What is everyones favorite Brand/Grade of plug and why?
 
O E M

it is what the engine was designed to use. who am I to tell those engineers I know better...
 
OEM is NGK.
It's important to verify that the gap on each one is truly 1.0mm.
 
OEM is NGK.
It's important to verify that the gap on each one is truly 1.0mm.
That's about .039". I believe my '03 sticker says 1.1mm(.0433") It couldn't hurt to close them up just a little more. My car currently has Denso's in it, and they were gapped about .054" out of the box. That's way to big for the weak insulation that the boots provide. I gapped them at about .034" hoping that the lower firing voltages will preserve the coils/boots a little longer.
 
As with everything in life it depends. I preffer NGK but the sticker under my hood lists Denso. I have been using NGK V-Power plugs. I replace them at least once a year but I do drive over 25k mi a year and tow almost 30% of the time. "Platinum" plugs are usually recommended for long term use as they supposedly don't deteriorate as fast as regular plugs. With my turbo 4-bangers I used to replace the plugs at every oil change (3K mi). IIRC the v-powers are less than $3 a pop while platinum ones are a bit more expensive.

The spark will jump over the gap as soon as it can. With decreased gaps the current needed to initiate the spark is much lower except in forced induction engines. Increased air density with forced insuction leads to higher current needed to initiate the spark over thesame gap. Smaller plug gaps make life easier for the coils but may lead to incomplete combustion and all of the related issues.

Good luck.
 
chart.jpg

My experience is that the gap gets larger as the plug ages (electrode erodes), so I set them to the minimum specified so that they aren't past the maximum before it it time to replace them.
Smaller gap = lower voltage, but higher current. Correct gap (in spec range) = best transfer of power to the ignition.

chart.jpg
 
You are correct. I also set the gaps at minimum recommended. The only time I have run them smaller than recommended was on a boosted engine.
View attachment 828471958

My experience is that the gap gets larger as the plug ages (electrode erodes), so I set them to the minimum specified so that they aren't past the maximum before it it time to replace them.
Smaller gap = lower voltage, but higher current. Correct gap (in spec range) = best transfer of power to the ignition.
 
View attachment 828471958

My experience is that the gap gets larger as the plug ages (electrode erodes), so I set them to the minimum specified so that they aren't past the maximum before it it time to replace them.
Smaller gap = lower voltage, but higher current. Correct gap (in spec range) = best transfer of power to the ignition.

Thank you very much for this. I will do just that!

As with everything in life it depends. I preffer NGK but the sticker under my hood lists Denso. I have been using NGK V-Power plugs. I replace them at least once a year but I do drive over 25k mi a year and tow almost 30% of the time. "Platinum" plugs are usually recommended for long term use as they supposedly don't deteriorate as fast as regular plugs.

Good luck.
As much as I would love to care for my LS like that, I sadly don't have the time =( Platinum sounds good tho, however I can't find any NGK platinum for the LS. I really don't want to be replacing plugs every year. any other suggestions?
 
O E M

it is what the engine was designed to use. who am I to tell those engineers I know better...

In my experience of owning the 2002 LS for 8 years, which is now a 13 year old car, I have replaced all parts that failed with aftermarket ebay. However, I have yet to replace the after market parts I put in.. hm.. ;)

The whole reason I parted it and got rid of it this week was because.. So.. Much.. OEM.. Failure... XD Ford ain't seeing a dime out of me for parts for that atrocious reliability.
But thank you for the suggestion.
 
...EDIT: I checked on ebay, all the listings say those are not comparable with the LS joegr. I can't find NGK platinum for the LS..

Funny, multiple sites say they fit 2000-2006 V8. I have them in my 04 and my 06, if I remember correctly.

Ebay says they don't fit because they are selling them in sets of 6.

Look it up at O'Reilly Auto Parts

NGK also says it fits: http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9309
 
So.. Much.. OEM.. Failure...

well with pretty much zero aftermarket support, 98% of the time your options are a fairly high quality OEM part, or a super cheap chinese knock off part that you're lucky if it last a year.

OEM coils > ebay coils

OEM degas bottle > dorman bottle

OEM shocks > every other aftermarket strut except stance coilovers

OEM bushings, end links, tie rods, rear toe links > all aftermarket brands other than the couple of Moog parts available

OEM cooling parts > non existent aftermarket parts
 
well with pretty much zero aftermarket support, 98% of the time your options are a fairly high quality OEM part, or a super cheap chinese knock off part that you're lucky if it last a year.

OEM coils > ebay coils

OEM degas bottle > dorman bottle

OEM shocks > every other aftermarket strut except stance coilovers

OEM bushings, end links, tie rods, rear toe links > all aftermarket brands other than the couple of Moog parts available

OEM cooling parts > non existent aftermarket parts

My $80 set of Chinese Ignition Coils are 1.5 years in, seems fine to me. Meh.
The way I see it, most of this stuff is so cheap to buy compared to OEM that even if they fail twice, I still spent less than half. And since OEM is not a guarantee, both are a Risk. And since "Aftermarket" is not a brand, its just a term, you can potentially get the best thing ever that never fails, or worst that failed as soon as you put it in. OEM is OEM, it WILL fail, just you have a good idea when lol
 
Funny, multiple sites say they fit 2000-2006 V8. I have them in my 04 and my 06, if I remember correctly.

Ebay says they don't fit because they are selling them in sets of 6.

Look it up at O'Reilly Auto Parts

NGK also says it fits: http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9309

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/8-PC-Isuzu-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51cda90c2a&vxp=mtr
8 piece set, and when I use the compatibility calculator it says: "This part is not compatible with 2005 Lincoln LS Sport Sedan 4-Door 3.9L 242Cu. In. V8 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated."

However I did notice that scrolling down, this seller has a tool tip showing plenty of cars and the LS 3.9 is listed. ... =/
But I trust you when you say you personally run them
 
View attachment 828471958

My experience is that the gap gets larger as the plug ages (electrode erodes), so I set them to the minimum specified so that they aren't past the maximum before it it time to replace them.
Smaller gap = lower voltage, but higher current. Correct gap (in spec range) = best transfer of power to the ignition.

I had the same train of thought when installing mine.
 
well with pretty much zero aftermarket support, 98% of the time your options are a fairly high quality OEM part, or a super cheap chinese knock off part that you're lucky if it last a year.

OEM coils > ebay coils

OEM degas bottle > dorman bottle

OEM shocks > every other aftermarket strut except stance coilovers

OEM bushings, end links, tie rods, rear toe links > all aftermarket brands other than the couple of Moog parts available

OEM cooling parts > non existent aftermarket parts

Off topic from spark plugs. But when you say OEM bushings, what do you recommend for GenII front sway bar bushings? To my knowledge, mine were adhesively adhered from the factory, so I'd presume I can't get OEM ones without getting an entire new OEM sway bar that comes with them already installed.

I was going to go the energy route unless you advise otherwise.
 
My $80 set of Chinese Ignition Coils are 1.5 years in, seems fine to me. Meh.
The way I see it, most of this stuff is so cheap to buy compared to OEM that even if they fail twice, I still spent less than half. And since OEM is not a guarantee, both are a Risk. And since "Aftermarket" is not a brand, its just a term, you can potentially get the best thing ever that never fails, or worst that failed as soon as you put it in. OEM is OEM, it WILL fail, just you have a good idea when lol

I can agree with this in a sense. But when you put it like that, OEM is like insurance. You pay for it, and you know when it's likely to run out. Aftermarket is a roll of the dice. (Set dice if you ask me)
 
They're supposed to be good for 100K miles. I expect them to last about as long as the coils do.

Awesome info. Thank you for taking the time in educating me. I will go with those G-Power from Amazon you linked (the 7090).

Thanks to everyone for your replies! I recommended another LS owner to this site. You guys are amazing.
 
But when you say OEM bushings, what do you recommend for GenII front sway bar bushings? ...
... I was going to go the energy route unless you advise otherwise.

when I did mine years ago, energy is what I went with and have had zero problems (aprox 60k-70k miles ago)

so I wont recommend against them...

To my knowledge, mine were adhesively adhered from the factory
its not that they have been adhesively adhered, instead of a "C" holding the bushing and the bar to the car, the bushing bracket wrapps all the way around the bar so that it cant simply be removed, I had to cut mine off with a dremel and a bunch of cut off wheels (wasn't room for a bigger, stronger tool) so since they dont come apart, the only way to get OEM ones is to buy the whole assembly
 

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