So I killed two tires less then 7500 miles...

SATURN5

Dr. Frankenstang
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Last Nov I replaced the rear tires, last set had normal wear. Seems sometime over our long and very cold winter the bushings in the upper rear control arms went on vacation.... So I have a "spare" set on my F100, but they have the second design bushing in them that's junk so I'm looking for another set with good bushings in them.

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I killed a set of Mickey Thompsons on the back of mine in less than 2,000 miles .:D . I have a new set of the rear upper control arm bushing I bought from SCP but never used them because mine are still very good. If interested make me an offer.
 
Last Nov I replaced the rear tires, last set had normal wear. Seems sometime over our long and very cold winter the bushings in the upper rear control arms went on vacation.... So I have a "spare" set on my F100, but they have the second design bushing in them that's junk so I'm looking for another set with good bushings in them.

So, why don't you want to just buy new bushings? You don't have to replace the arm. If you did, it would likely have worn out bushings in it too...
 
I had/have a good set on the F100. Those are now on the Mark. I'm looking at fabbing up some Delrin replacements for the arms I took off.
 
I had/have a good set on the F100. Those are now on the Mark. I'm looking at fabbing up some Delrin replacements for the arms I took off.

I've got some ideas that I've been thinking of for that eccentric bushing, that I might work out and try to include into my Delrin bushing kits, but it might be easier/better just to buy a set of the ones that still incorporate the original design. I had a set but I ended up installing them on a friend's car. I think they were the Raybestos Pro grade.
 
One just fell out, the other is in a bit better shape.

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Also, durability test. One of my dorman upper fronts has already killed the ball joint in 20K miles. Moog arm ordered.
 
Thats swell. I have upper and lower Doorman arms. Also hoping my bushings in the back arent trash. They werent when I had the subframe out....
 
MY current tires have been on 3 different cars, most of the time on my 97 Cougar that got wrecked, then on my 89 Cougar while I shopped for my Mark VIII. I think I put 6000 miles on them on the Mark VIII.
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The passenger side one is destroyed. The drivers side is okay treadwise, and wearing fairly evenly across, but still wearing more on the inside. The fronts also wear much faster on the inside. I had an alignment done, but they waffled and wouldn't do the rear for some reason. The also had to be told about the eccentric and at first wouldn't touch the Cougar as it was lowered.

I have ran staggered tire sizes up to this point, as my Cougars didn't have ABS, but now I am going to run 255/45/17 all around so I can rotate at least front to back (I tried to find some asymmetrical tires but none really exist for UHP/MP tires, just all season).

I wonder if a trac loc would save me enough over wearing one tire out in the rear to make it worth it. Pretty much every 1-2 shift is at WOT and a tire chirper (or triggers TC). and each take off is aggressive, as is each stop.

The tires that came on the car look to be wearing evenly (I put the wheels and tires on my 89 Cougar), but at 215/60/16 they won't survive my driving, but if need be I can toss them back on the car. I had been holding off on tires because of the threat of the car being totaled, and am running a 225/60/16 on the front but ABS doesn't like having 3 different sized tires.
 
Just did my strut rod bushings. Then was told my passenger side tie rod was bent a little. (VERY cheap fix thank god) He then continued to tell me that I should not go more then 7 miles with the car like this because it will wear the tires out. Maybe the tie rods have something to do with it?
 
Daniel, the tie rods are the connection that steer your car. If they aren't set to spec, you could scrub a tire to bald in 100 miles. That's why you set them - roughly - with chalk and a string to make them close to square to drive to the front end shop after replacement. Just jack it up, spin each and use the chalk to make a line as close to center as possible, then measure front and back to make approximate square. My old Chevrolet ('56 210) called for 1/8 toe in and it was right on doing it this way. It is crude, but its better than being completely screwy before alignment. PM me if you need better explanation.
 

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