So could it be the Blender Door or???

2002WRXSTi

2002WRXSTi

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I did the good old search to try to figure out what the F is wrong with my AC?!

I put Freon in and it was cold but not real cold? So the AC pump come on and shuts off like it needs more of a charge but it will not take any in? Figured no big deal I'll get to it at some point later.

Yeah sure, now that it's been higher 80's and into the 90's it is freaking HOT. I put the AC on Max and it is blowing Hot air?! Not super hot but it's better to turn the thing Off and run with the windows down or you sweat to death!

All I have read about the Blender Door has been that the heat doesn't work. Not my problem at this point, so could it also stick to the hot side? It's raining out right now so I'm not gonna try to look for anything today but tomorrow I have to figure this out?!
 
theres a gray arm to the left of the glovebox (put head on floor and look up) sweep the temp and it should move
 
The blend door could get stuck in hot, cold or anywhere in between. Mine was stuck on full on heat when I got it which made for an interesting 400 mile trip back in July (some heat still comes out when off). If you move the arm and the temp changes, you have your culprit.
 
Anyway checked the blender arm and it was moving. So I went to PepBoys and had them do a inspection charge and now I have AC :D

Have had it for a week or so now with the heat outside and it is still going pretty strong but now that I had the windows up I heard the dreaded rear rotor grind :mad:

oldpinpads.jpg

Markrotor.jpg

God I hate the rear brake setup on these things!
 
It was fun beating the hell outta the pin after I Kroiled it with a pair of Vice grips on em. I got it out and fixed so I didn't have to buy a new setup at least :shifty:

Also note the wheel spinning in the Gif is the rotor with the bad pad...
 
94m5 said:
That burnout in your sig will cause that kind of damage.....
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I did them all the time in the 96 I sold to you. This one when I took the caliper off the one floating pin was seized from rust. Fixed it and have to take the other off and check it tomorrow to make sure it is nice and anti seized up so this don't happen again :rolleyes:
 
So beginning of the summer I had Pep Boys recharge my AC system. Low and behold I have AC without having to so the Blender Arm deal. AC was good but I felt it could have been colder but I wasn't gonna complain cause some is better than none :rolleyes:

Anyway now the mornings are cold and the late nights too. So I get roped into taking my one Go Go girl home down in SJ. Running down Rt18 at 3:30am my legs are getting real cold so I turn up the temp control. Now I'm freezing and she is bitching at me to flip it to heat. I tell her it ain't that kind of car and crank it to 90 but there is COLD air coming out of the vents.

So I am guessing that the Blender Arm is stuck in the cold position and I actually have to replace it after all :(

Also I am going nuts trying to diagnose why my Neon Tailight has a mind of it's own and works when it wants to :confused:
 
DieselDan said:
You probably need a new neon ballast...
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I thought I read someplace that the headlight switch could be the culprit? I know it has issues as the info center just comes up with delay time set to 30seconds as I'm driving around and haven't touched it?

When ever I walk buy my car at night I always look at the rear lights as the timer ticks down and half the time the Neon is out :mad:
 
2002WRXSTi said:
I thought I read someplace that the headlight switch could be the culprit? I know it has issues as the info center just comes up with delay time set to 30seconds as I'm driving around and haven't touched it?
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bah mine does that too i wouldnt worry about it
2002WRXSTi said:
When ever I walk buy my car at night I always look at the rear lights as the timer ticks down and half the time the Neon is out :mad:
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+2 ballast mine would work here and there till it blew the fuse for the brake lights and i unplugged it

and yours sounds like the typical blend door, find the little gray arm and move it (bottom left corner of glove box) place head on pass floorboard and look up you will see it. if either arm is broken it wont work right (they are linked together)
 
chicken said:
+2 ballast mine would work here and there till it blew the fuse for the brake lights and i unplugged it
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Ebay here I come for that piece :shifty:


chicken said:
and yours sounds like the typical blend door, find the little gray arm and move it (bottom left corner of glove box) place head on pass floorboard and look up you will see it. if either arm is broken it wont work right (they are linked together)
Click to expand...

I checked it this summer and saw the blend door lever move so I went to Pep Boys and had it charged. So I thought I was all clear but now I know I'm not. So when you get the upgraded lever from Ford to replace is it just one lever or are there 2 I need to be worried about?
 
Ordered yesterday and come in today.
blender.jpg

Now have to wait for it to stop raining so I can put it in. Garage is full of WRX and SL350 and I ain't bothering to pull either out :shifty:
 
OK installed new blender arm assembly and yeah it's nice to have anything from heat to AC again BUT :shifty:

Took me about 5 and half hours to get it in and the car dash back together again. It seems that this it the second assembly this thing has had since it only had 3 bolts holding it in instead of 4.

Worst part of it now my interior light stay on?

It's not like it had a pin switch like old school cars have :confused:

Anyone have there interior lights stay on after they have done this or anything that they unhooked the battery for?
 
Wow talk about a major brain fart last night. Had the interior light switch turned all the way to on when I was putting the dash back together :rolleyes:

Now my only decision is should I go to Ford and have the recall thing done? It does not have the steering over limiter straps or whatever they are called? It was mentioned on this page http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/lincolntech/modrepair/blenddoorrepair.html

Anyone know anything more in depth on this as I really do not want anything else having to be replaced? I mean the blender door deal had been done before as it was missing a lot of screws when I was taking it apart.
 
So this was the nightmare I call my car and a simple fix...HA
dashapartdrivers.jpg

dashapartpass.jpg

And after the freakin 5 hours it took to get this piece out that was replaced once already! I hope the new piece is updated so I don't have to go through this again :mad:
bustedblederarm.jpg
 
Wow that drivers seat is beat up. The new blend doors are reinforced and should last. Mine has held up fine over the past year.
 
Yeah the original owner of my car was wheelchair bound. So it had hand controls on the wheel and he had to drag himself into the seat kinda deal?

So the drivers side door sill is all chipped up and the seat is hammered. The guy I picked the car up off of told me they put a new heater in the seat so I shouldn't replace it. However it doesn't work?! Trying to figure out if they didn't plug it in somewhere or what?

On the good note, I can be fairly sure this car wasn't raced or beaten on :cool:
 
2002WRXSTi said:
And after the freakin 5 hours it took to get this piece out that was replaced once already! I hope the new piece is updated so I don't have to go through this again :mad:
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Yeah, but next time you'll be able to do it in 2 hours. :p Unfortunately, the "updated" actuator will eventually break too, so there will be a "next time" in its future. You're probably good for a couple of years though.
 
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