Running warm, tried to burp

dnsherrill

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the brown car (up on stands awaiting a straight rear knuckle): still runs warm/hot still so I decided to see if it would burp for me
started car and turned on heater to max/ about 90; under the hood both heater core hoses are at the same temp pretty quickly; the x-over tube didn't burp and the lower radiator hose never rose above ambient temp, not hot to the touch; gauge got over 'M' to 'R' ,>200 so I shut it off..while it was running, w/ heat on,
condensation built up on this line
0807231220_zps80d92b2b.jpg

and when I shut the engine off I heard liquid dumping on the concrete, pool of about 4-8 oz ran down the cat
0807231254_zps4b87bf07.jpg

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what's happening, what's normal here, what's not? I'm thinking I need a new t-stat (RT1085) b/c the low hose should get warm/hot when the t-stat opens?....dunno about the clear water that drained/hit the ground...yea, yea, liquid finds the path of least resistance and usually runs downhill, but where did it originate?
 
That's all A/C stuff. A/C's drain water out a drip pipe when they run. Haven't you always seen a puddle of water under a running car with A/C on that's parked? Cars will run hotter with A/C on.
 
yes, of course......but the A/C wasn't on, the compressor wasn't running..the heater was;
isn't the low hose supposed to get warm/hot when the tstat opens?
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The condensation from that A/C part is doing the water. And yes all hoses will be hot when therm opens.
 
the car likes to run the AC at weird times. including when the heat is on. i have no idea why. probably to cut the humidity down.
 
Turning the heater on allows heat to radiate into the cabin which in turn will help cool the engine coolant temp. Leave the Heater Off

When your car gets up to Normal mid range or slightly above, does the fan kick on?

Does the fan kick on when you command A/C on?
 
Car will run the compressor at times with the heat on to condensate the humidity from the air before it hits the windshield. Otherwise, it would fog up the windows.

Those lines though, are a/c refrigerant lines, no coolant runs through them. The hoses you want are slightly more inboard of the engine compartment.

Is this the car with the 'blown head gasket'?
 
Those lines though, are a/c refrigerant lines, no coolant runs through them. The hoses you want are slightly more inboard of the engine compartment.
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yea, I checked both heater core hoses..A-OK
so it's all normal...interesting the AC runs with the heater....the humidity in Ga has been about 200% lately
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.

Is this the car with the 'blown head gasket'?
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nope, I don't have one of THOSE cars :dancefool
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I once thought the white one might have a BHG, but the radi was sucking air in at the almost-repaired nipple- new radi=running cool
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given this low radi to t-stat hose never got warm, I'm thinking the t-stat needs r/r.... and yes, I checked the heater core hoses, both got warm in a short amount of time....it should still be flushed though...with CLR
 
No, I'm the resident blown head gasket guy that still hasn't changed the engine. Hey, I drive that car to work every day!
 
Turning the heater on allows heat to radiate into the cabin which in turn will help cool the engine coolant temp. Leave the Heater Off

When your car gets up to Normal mid range or slightly above, does the fan kick on?

Does the fan kick on when you command A/C on?
dude, I don't like you, I don't trust you or what you say, and I'd prefer you not reply to threads I've started. If you can't understand why, ask Bill to explain it
 
What sapp said is true though, if the engine is hot, turning on the inside heater will help cool the engine slightly. It helps if your car is overheating to turn on the heater, it could buy you some time if say the rad fan quits or something. In this case, you would want it off so it is not affecting your system.
 
Its doesn't matter if you like me or not, I didn't ask for your affection. I was going to explain to you how to rebuild your caliper that you've botched. Since it would all just be a waste, mainly because you're an incompetent individual, I'll refrain
 
I was going to explain to you how to rebuild your caliper that you've botched. Since it would all just be a waste, mainly because you're an incompetent individual, I'll refrain
Yes, PLEASE refrain. What you don't seem to comprehend is that I'm not asking for, don't want, and do not need any of YOUR input.
Half the time you offer someone advice you're wrong. Do you even know what an egr valve is? Did you actually think that maybe I forgot you ripped me off?
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Jeremy, you've proven that you're a liar, a crook, and a used junk peddler hijacking threads to push your crap; you're an arrogant cocky sob with an inflated ego 5x the size of your knowledge base...get over yourself. If you do however actually DRIVE your Mark VIII one day please post pics. Otherwise it didn't happen
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does this look familiar? here's the strut mount with two mounting bolts you sold me that had to be replaced... do you need it back so you can put it on another strut you're selling?
P7060416_zps4b5e925b.jpg
 
What sapp said is true though, if the engine is hot, turning on the inside heater will help cool the engine slightly. It helps if your car is overheating to turn on the heater, it could buy you some time if say the rad fan quits or something. In this case, you would want it off so it is not affecting your system.
this car hasn't overheated, but it does run well above 'M' easily and often, good to know that turning on heat can drop the temp some
 
So you broke a mount huh. Wasn't broke when I pulled it off MY car. Wasn't broke when I stuck it in the box. As far as the 1 lug stud.. you knew it was getting tacked onto the backside of the hub, big F'ing deal
 
what kind of moron welds a lug stud to a hub?
how exactly is that stud supposed to be replaced if it needs it?
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that mount clunked the first time it hit a small bump; thanks for the used garbage ya crook
 
The kind of moron that doesn't want it to spin since the splines wouldn't hold it. And it wasn't a 100% weld you idiot, its only tacked. Anyone who is capable of using a hammer can remove it, so I guess I can understand your confusion there.
Which is better than the type of moron that disassembled his own damn brakes without any knowledge on how to reassemble them
 
and that's a like new hub, got it
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dude, I don't give a _____; I trusted you to send good parts in a timely manner and that was a mistake, you didn't do either...
as I said before...stay the heel off my thread; go polish that car you can't drive...or troll the board and peddle some of your used junk to new LVC members
 
Back on topic....


You might want to sue whoever didn't burp your coolant...
it's burped...needs a t-stat ; I don't sue people, I just don't give em my cash again
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Hey Sap, how many tickets do you have to pay off before you can drive legally? should LVC form a charity fund so you can the pay your fines and get legal?
how many used shocks, cracked mounts, and burned out trannies do you need to sell to get flush?
*owned*
 
No, I'm the resident blown head gasket guy that still hasn't changed the engine. Hey, I drive that car to work every day!

thought I was the only one...
Bless Barsleak copper. Sofar that is the best invention to me.. have to wait to pull motor and replace head gaskets. yea I know if im pulling a motor why replace gaskets, because a junk motor you never know what your gonna get.
 
it's burped...needs a t-stat ; I don't sue people, I just don't give em my cash again
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Hey Sap, how many tickets do you have to pay off before you can drive legally? should LVC form a charity fund so you can the pay your fines and get legal?
how many used shocks, cracked mounts, and burned out trannies do you need to sell to get flush?
*owned*

I suppose you trading busted Trac Locs for suspension parts that you couldn't afford is OK.
 

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