Rear Upper Spring perch?

fwiw, I removed the isolator from the coil top, so the fins (hammered in place) do fit the coil tighter without it.
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correct my physical understanding where appropriate:
for there to be movement of the spring-top, there would need to be minimal load and a sudden stop or turn. That rules out sudden accelerations or braking. A sudden impact against something very massive (without braking) might make them move?
keep in mind, oem is just 3 little plastic nipples
You're assuming linear compression, that isn't the case here. The spring perches see horizontal force as the spring is compressed. The factory airbags did not impose this force on the airbag plastic top and bottom endcaps.

If you choose to rely on that method to locate your springs, so be it. I wouldn't go recommending it to others as a viable and safe method though.


I'd much rather re-do my interior, get LSC housings, get dual exhaust or get better wheels than spend $3-400 on pretty perches.
If you're paying that much for perches, you're getting ripped off.


Why is it so hard to understand the concept of " just because it works does not mean it is right"?
Bingo.


Even engineers cannot determine all possibilities of failure.
<-----This guy's day job (M.E.).
 
Ford Stealerships do coil conversions...usually for about...$1200? lol....what type perches do they use? what does FoMoCo recommend as a 'safe' upper/lower perch?
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when DLF was making/selling his UHMW perches (IIRC) they were @3-400 for 4 pieces?
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Jay? what's you're estimated cost to the buyer?
 
Ford Stealerships do coil conversions...usually for about...$1200? lol....what type perches do they use? what does FoMoCo recommend as a 'safe' upper/lower perch?
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when DLF was making/selling his UHMW perches (IIRC) they were @3-400 for 4 pieces?
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Jay? what's you're estimated cost to the buyer?

Doug sold his kit for $300 I think.

I don't know yet about what I would need to charge. It depends heavily on the price of the material. If I can get the dimensions, that'll tell me what size O.D. UHMW to order, and then I can probably estimate a price...

Basically, what I need is the outside diameter of the springs, and then the inside diameter as well. That'll give me the size of the base, and the size of the nipple inside.
 
Doug sold his kit for $300 I think.

I don't know yet about what I would need to charge. It depends heavily on the price of the material. If I can get the dimensions, that'll tell me what size O.D. UHMW to order, and then I can probably estimate a price...

Basically, what I need is the outside diameter of the springs, and then the inside diameter as well. That'll give me the size of the base, and the size of the nipple inside.

The trick is going to be figuring out the helical slope. When I made my perches I avoided having to do that by reusing the rubber caps that were on the springs. They already have that shape and the opposite side is then flat.

Unless there are springs where the coil ends flat. The ones I used did not.
 
Well, I'm pretty sure I got these spring perches figured out. I did a bunch of research and came up with some good specs, and this is how they've turned out.

So far, I've only made a set of uppers. These really do take quite a lot of work. UHMW is not very easy to machine either. There's quite a steep learning curve to get a nice finish on it. It's completely different than the stainless steel and aluminum that I'm used to turning.

I can totally understand Doug's pricing on these. If I'm going to make and sell these in the future, they'll be the same as what Doug charged, $150 shipped for just the uppers. Of course, the Prothane isolators will need to be purchased as well. I found/bought a set for about $30, that should be here early next week.

Anyway, since I don't need these for myself, and frankly never plan to ever need them (Air for life! lol), I'll offer a discount to anyone who wants to try out this first set and offer me any feedback on them. If they flat out don't work, just return them unharmed, and I'll refund you the money.

I'll offer up the set of upper spring perches and a set of Prothane isolators for $150. So basically, you'll be getting the isolators for free.

IMG_2197%u00255B1%u00255D.JPG
IMG_2206%u00255B1%u00255D.JPG

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IMG_2206%u00255B1%u00255D.JPG
 
That looks good. Pretty similar to the ones I made. I actually didn't use a lathe. I think UHMW might be easier to mill than turn. I started with a rectangular piece which is why I just milled it as an island and then cut the back off in soft jaws. How will those work with the top of the spring? The spring coils all the way to the top, right? Is the intend to reuse the rubber cap on both ends? I did that but then that makes the ID smaller because the perch has to fit into the rubber.
 
looks great Jay, nice work...what holds the large pin in place while youre' sliding the cotter pin through the hole?..tight squeeze
 
looks great Jay, nice work...what hold the large pin in place while youre' sliding the cotter pin through the hole?..tight squeeze

Thanks!

Basically, you would need to install these first, before putting the spring in there. That way, it would essentially be just like installing the spring into a Thunderbird.
 
The ones in this thread look much better than what Arnott, AAS, or Strutmasters sells (or don't include all together). I bought the lower perches that SCP sells and will use the uppers that come with the spring conversion.
 
IMAG1358.jpg


Those look identical to the ones I bought from Doug last year..the lowers are the same as the uppers but have a small "nipple" on the bottom so they can rest in the hole on the lower control arm keeping them centered (see pic). Have you tried using aluminum instead of the delrin material or whatever its called? Seems like it would be an easier material to get..and I'm sure the weight difference is minimal.
 

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