Rear hub binding?

Myco

Myco

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When I replaced my rear hubs last year I couldn't get the hub out of the knuckle so I had to have someone do it for me (the whole thing). I used ford factory parts and new (OEM) halfshafts. Now, about a year later the back left hub is (very) bad.

There is a part of the walk-through that says...

Using a paint marker, mark the position of the lower rear suspension arm and bushing in relation to the rear wheel knuckle with the lower bushings in their relaxed position.

CAUTION: Failure to mark this position will result in bushing wind-up on assembly and incorrect ride height, causing misalignment and premature tire wear.

NOTE: When upper rear suspension arm and bushing bolt is removed from the knuckle, the lower bushings will return to their relaxed positions.
Click to expand...

When I replace the hub this time is there a way to check for this?

Also, only one side is bad so do I need to put the entire back-end up or can I just put one side up?


Also(again) Is the Temkin replacement hub a good replacement? (from autozone) I've heard it's a decent replacement. I've been trying to get ahold of the dealerships around here but no-one is answering the phones.
 
Are you saying you have bearing issues? The hub is pressed out of the knuckle/bearing assembly, then he bearing is pressed out of the knuckle.
 
I've got an extra set of Timken rear bearings sitting in the garage if you're looking for a set to buy. I bought a set for the 97 to replace as preventive maintenance, and then decided I don't care about the 97 enough. They're brand new in the box still.

I don't know what they're going for any more. Make me a good offer...
 
Forget all that paint marker crap, just torque the suspension bolts with the suspension loaded.

Your "new" hub and bearing probably went bad becuase it wasn't properly installed, an all to common problem.
 
DLF said:
Forget all that paint marker crap, just torque the suspension bolts with the suspension loaded.

Your "new" hub and bearing probably went bad becuase it wasn't properly installed, an all to common problem.
Click to expand...

Actually... further investigation shows that the bearing went bad because my mom hit a curb at 50mph. (once I found the problem she confessed and offered to pay for it. ;-) ) She says she "doesn't know if she hit the curb with the front tire... My question in all this is how do you hit a curb with the back tire without hitting the curb with the front tire going 50mph.

Inquiring minds want to know... :confused:


98lincmk7lsc .. I'd buy them but the price for timken bearings is 30$ ... with shipping and all it's not worth it.. though I appreciate it.

Should I be expecting a bad bearing or a bad hub? I quess I"ll see. {fyi: if anyone can chime in... the dealerships are closed so I can't get a new bearing crush nut for a couple days... do the bearing nuts from autozone do the job?
 
DLF said:
Forget all that paint marker crap, just torque the suspension bolts with the suspension loaded.

Your "new" hub and bearing probably went bad becuase it wasn't properly installed, an all to common problem.
Click to expand...

It's going to be pretty hard getting to those bolts with the tire on and the car on the ground. Should I jack the back suspension up a bit when I torque the bolts down? ... IE: How exactly do I torque the suspension bolts with the suspension loaded?
 
Myco said:
It's going to be pretty hard getting to those bolts with the tire on and the car on the ground. Should I jack the back suspension up a bit when I torque the bolts down? ... IE: How exactly do I torque the suspension bolts with the suspension loaded?
Click to expand...

Install new bearing but leave the axle nut on but not torqued, pop out center cap of wheel, install wheel, lower car, torque axle nut. Replace center cap
 
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