Radiator fan motor

9

93mkviii

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2008
Messages
525
Reaction score
39
Location
jacksonville
Well my compressor for the a/c and fan aren't turning and and causing overheating issues. I took it to a mechanic and he told me the connector is getting power and the fan motor is bad. He said hitting the motor made it work like a starter but it's a temporary fix. Does this mean i really have a bad fan motor?
Also, for the replacement fan motor i've done some research and the old mounts need to be shredded and bolts need to go in right? I've got this motor in mind to replace the original. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...r_19010389-P_564_R|GRPCOOLAMS_____#fragment-2 Will it work? How does this attach to the fan? Does the spindle pop in and out of the fan? If anyone has replaced a motor before any help would be great. I've also tried messing with the connector but no avail and it seems already pretty tight.
 
looks like the right piece.
but amazon has it cheaper.

there is a clip that holds the blades to the motor.
holding the motor to the shroud, i drilled out the rivets (i think they were rivets..) and put in bolts.

as to whether the motor is actually bad...

did you check the fuse?
is your vrcm any good?
is the plug burnt or loose?
do you have bad wiring?
 
I checked all the fuses and they seem good. Plug is also good and as far as bad wiring goes, it's stock and it should be good. VRCM i know is a major issue(common) but I don't think it's a bad VRCM since it was getting power on the connector and they got it to work by hitting it. How do you remove the clip? Drill out the rivets before removing clip or after? And with coupons it's much cheaper to go with AAP(90$) plus if i have issues with it i just take it to them and get a replacement.
 
The biggest pain is pulling the shroud up past the coolant hose. It's tight but can be done. The manual says to drain the coolant and disconnect the hose. But I have replaced the fan motor 3 times on 2 cars over the years without disconnecting anything but the fan harness.

There is a spring clip retaining the fan blade to the motor shaft. It is simple to remove and then pull off the fan blade. Use caution as the edges can be very sharp!

Then just drill the head off the rivets holding the motor to the shroud and use a drift punch to drive out the rivets. Use SS bolts and nylon nuts to bolt in the new motor. Reattach the fan blade with the retainer and you're ready to re-install.

I forget where, but once I got a fan motor that had a pigtail for the harness rather than the integrated connector. Since I still had harness plug issues, I cut the harness plugs off and hard spliced the wiring. No plug problems afterwards! ;)
 
driller said:
The biggest pain is pulling the shroud up past the coolant hose. It's tight but can be done. The manual says to drain the coolant and disconnect the hose. But I have replaced the fan motor 3 times on 2 cars over the years without disconnecting anything but the fan harness.
Click to expand...

when i tried this, the piece where that hose connected exploded and crumbled in my hands. so be careful, the heat gets to the plastic after a while.
 
Why can't I just remove the motor without pulling the whole assembly off? Is there a reason to pull out the shroud? Does it just make it easier? To pull out the shroud i'm guessing there are a few bolts holding it up and then it pulls straight up?
 
I've pulled my fan motor/shroud many times on both my Bird and Mark and not had any problems. Pulled when I changed radiators, pulled when I did U/D pulleys, pulled when I did electric water pump & crank pulley, etc, etc.
 
93mkviii said:
To pull out the shroud i'm guessing there are a few bolts holding it up and then it pulls straight up?
Click to expand...

There are 2 bolts that are easily identified near the top of the shroud, one each side. There are wedges that are built into the bottom on the shroud that hold it against the radiator. Once the two bolts are out, it simply comes straight up. Tip the top back a bit and bring it up and out at an angle.

It goes back in much easier than it comes out for some reason.
 
Driller how did you get it past the coolant hose? I've tried pushing to the right and it still doesn't move enough. Any tips?
 
I just pull the upper radiator hose over with my left hand while I work that hump of the fan shroud by it with my right.
 
Pulled the assembly off and new motor is ready to go in. I had to pull off the radiator hose which mostly lead air to come into the system. I tried twisting off the crossover cap to burp the system but that cap is stuck and not coming off. The 1/4 gap is stripped. Any other way to burp the system? Is there a replacement cap that is sold in stores?
 
I can't believe you took the top hose off. I know it is a biotch but now you are into something completely differant and not required. All you had to do was have some patience and wiggle and contort and you would be done already. Just like Driller said, it goes in easier than it comes out for some reason.

I just did this last year this time for the same reason, check your VCRM fuse in the underhood distribution box as well, it is a 40 AMP
 
Trust me it wasn't coming out. The plastic shroud was bending so much it was about to crack. There was no room left and the edge still had an inch to move. I tried tilting it at an angle and it wasn't happening. I'm gonna be taking it to the shop to get the coolant done right anyways. And I have checked the fuses.
 
I'm beginning to think these mechanics know very little about our cars or are just not very good. I replaced the fan motor and still fan and compressor don't turn on when i turn on max a/c. I don't know if this is related but it started happening at the same time. After 1-2 minutes I turn on the car it almost dies if it's idling but after a second it runs fine and if i'm driving within that 1-2 minute range i loose complete power for a second(not electrical but engine wise). Anyone know what this issue could be? Should I try replacing the VCRM next? Such a headache.

BTW is this a replacement for the VCRM? It's in the fuel pump section but seems very similar.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Module-BWD_20971436-P_493_R|GRPRELAAMS_____#
 
the Variable Load Control Module VLCM is a tricky beast.its has caused me 2 motors.the info from sensors temp,temp send unit,a/c high switch,and temp gauge all run through to regulate the sped of fan to cool to 190 deg. when it goes,your fan is affected,the gauge will read funny (mine would go from cold to middle but never show hot, i started to hear valve chatter the motor stalled then all the gauges changed showing above red hot) the a/c some times would make it go to high sometimes nothing,when they start to go time to switch. i was actually going to go to a dual fan setup that was on all the time,still might but the cfm for the factory fan is hard to beat even with dual 14".
 
It's just not worth switching to smaller dual fan setup. I don't think dual 14 would fit on our radiator right? Still the surface area with two 14 vs one 18 is 300 vs 250, respectively. Not much of a change for having 2 fans equaling 28inch verses one 18.
 
I got a brand spanking new crossover cap from my friendly over priced ford dealer
He told me thierry were still a few avail, and had to order it from Michigan .
About 35 bucks if I remember correctly .
The burp process ain't too hard and I got the old cap off with a pair of channel locks .
It helps if the car is warm , not hot.
 
I could do these for $60. Its clear coated steel, not stainless. Its been sitting out on a table for about a month,and Ive applied 1 drop of water to it every night for a week before I went home right after I made it, hasn't rusted yet. Normally it would rust in an hour or so

20120517_092620.jpg
 
If there's 12v at the plug...and the fan works when hotwired to the battery, check the inside of the plugs connectors. Over time those prongs get bend down a bit and will fail to make a snug connection.
No idea about the VCLM you posted
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 1,773 (members: 0, guests: 1,773)
Back
Top