Pistons and valves

danny_holtermann

danny_holtermann

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Hey i was just wondering what people have bought as far as pistons, connecting rods and valves, what sizes and such also, i plan on spending my taxes this year on part of my motor. So i am looking at any where form 1000 to 1500 on all that stuff, if anyone know of packages or anything else please let me know.

Or if you suggest something else i will take that in consideration as well.

Thanks
 
If it were my project I wouldn't worry about the valves. Leave those stock maybe change the springs if your changing cams but otherwise leave them alone. What are your plans down the road. Are you getting boosted or staying NA. If boost is in the plans later I'd go with some good H beam rods and forged pistons with about stock compression. I've been looking for some used 03-04 cobra rods and piston to upgrade my engine on the cheap. With those and arp head studs the engine should be good for alot of boost.
 
Thanks driller that looks like a respectable brand..... but for the next question, what size bore does everyone reccomend
 
You need to know what shape the cylinder walls are in. Like have a machine shop tell you what machine work will be needed, this will be at the time your engine is apart. If a light hone or a full rebore is needed. If only a light hone only is needed you can use standard size pistons. Otherthan that the shop will need to tell you what size will be needed.

BTW why are you concerned with new rods and pistons (forged) if your not going boosted. For a stock rebuild useing forged parts will add weight to the rotating mass. Why not use stock parts, most times on a rebuild the rods can be reused.
 
I don't agree with that htrd......



The stock rods are inherently weak from the get-go, let alone the pistons. The added strength afforded by forged internals will allow the guy to run no2 or some type of forced induction down the road if he chooses to WITHOUT needing to rip the engine apart again.

Danny,


You could go to forged rods and pistons, KEEP the cast 6 bold crank have have a 550-600 HP safe shortblock, and still have a light assy.


Mike
 
94m5
I asked if he was going boosted in the future. Responce was no didn't plan on it. So that is why I am saying might as well stay stock parts. If he only wants to make stock power levels why go with forged parts. Not needed.

I agree the stock parts may be considered weak when compared to forged units but they can handle a good bit more than stock levels. Some boost and some spray no problem!!!!!!!!!!
 
If there is nothing wrong with your shortblock now and you don't plan on FI or N2O I don't see the point in spending money and tearing into it. Spend the money on mods that will actually make power.
 
i have a broken connecting rod......... I want to spend money on the motor for more power buy buying something better than stock...htrd- i have not looked into eagel and scat... but manley is pretty damn expensive for a first motor build... i have only heard bad things about stock parts on these cars.... and if i do go with bigger bores and bigger cylinders it does make a difference... i would go into all the mathmatical :q:q:q:q but im not going to... i was just wondering what brands and bores people have gone with... or heard of on the 4 v motors
 
I got you. All those brands are expensive if you go forged. You can still look at their lines of cast parts. It all depends on what power level your looking for. I have heard the same about the weak poor stock parts. I cann't break any of them with a good shot of spray. Only break so far was a head gasket. I figure I'm throwing a 125 hit at the car. Talked with others that have used a 200 hit. So I don't know how weak are they?:D
 
You have to look at the power adder also. most think 400-450 is about the limit stock but most of those are using blowers which take power to spin. If a blower engine makes 400 hp the interals are working under 450 or more hp levels. The blowers take alot of power to spin that never shows on an engine or chassis dyno. Turbos and nitrious don't do that. Just something think about.
 
Most people go with 0.020" over on the bore/piston size. You can get top brand rods/pistons/bearings/rings for around $1500 last I looked.
 
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