Out of ideas, can't fix ETC Failsafe.. Please help.

What is inferred catalyst mid-bed temperature?! Sumbitch is hotttt normal or no? If you can’t read it the value was 517°c and max was 883°c

3C7F339E-BC70-4AA5-AA68-C066BF4D3ED7.png
 
I’m getting a lean code both banks as well. Going to check for vacuum leak and fuel issue for now. Any ideas to check on?
 
Last edited:
I’m getting a lean code both banks as well. Going to check for vacuum leak and fuel issue for now. Any ideas to check on?
What does your O2 sensors read in live feed? Can you obviously see that the sensors are erratic? Have you googled what a Cat temp should be when operating normally? Then compare your CATS to the functional Catylistic Converters...YouTube has a ton of DIY CAT testing videos ...if car is running lean it could be many things ...the quickest way to check for a Vacuum leak is a smoke test at a shop with a smoke machine ...shouldn't be more than $100 if that
 
So I talked to a technician I know from ford. He said possibly try and look into oil pressure, and maybe something in common with the VCT. I thought forscan would have an option to look at oil pressure but don’t see it. He said with it acting up when operating temp and the engine smoothing out to normal at higher rpms sounds like it could be a possibility. Any input?
 
So I talked to a technician I know from ford. He said possibly try and look into oil pressure, and maybe something in common with the VCT. I thought forscan would have an option to look at oil pressure but don’t see it. He said with it acting up when operating temp and the engine smoothing out to normal at higher rpms sounds like it could be a possibility. Any input?
Typically the VVT system does not activate until the engine is at higher RPM or is introduced to load bearing situations like driving uphill. I can hardly believe you wouldn't have your CEL light up if it was truly the VCT...stranger things have happened though...if you think changing the VCT solenoid would give you peace of mind ...go for it.. Twice a year I do an engine oil flush on all my vehicles ...I use Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush -500 Milliliter...German Brand after I flush the engine I use Liqui Moly (20002) Cera Tec Friction Modifier-300 Ml in the new oil same company ...made in Germany ...all my engines run smooth as silk...the first time i did this I couldn't believe the difference ...I was so pleased with the product I'm now a loyal customer for life..Now to my point...the cleaner your oil the healthier your VCT system will be...I think I mentioned this a couple pages earlier ...I would personally start with a compression test and then go from there ...always good to know if you have good compression before you go in any direction


Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush - 500 Milliliter

Liqui Moly (20002) Cera Tec Friction Modifier - 300 ml
 
Im not thinking on anything just trying to shoot some ideas. Like I said I’m lost as to what is going on so I did try to disconnect the solenoids once the issue occurred. Turned off the car and disconnected them. Restarted with same issue so I’m not thinking vct. I’ll post a picture of my o2 love data and see what you guys have to say. It looks strange to me but I’m not an expert.

BD6D4DA2-97A3-47CC-83FB-2E16DC6291E4.jpeg
 
I also notice right when the car starts acting up it’s going into “drive” loop at idle. Not sure if that’s the same as open loop.
 
...I thought forscan would have an option to look at oil pressure but don’t see it...

There is no electronic monitoring of oil pressure on the LS. There's no real sensor. There is only the switch that says either there is some oil pressure, or no oil pressure.
 
Do you have codes confirming the engine is running lean? If so what are the codes?

Intermittently. P2195 and P2197. Had P0133 a couple times as well. But the main codes I have are P2107 and P2110 which I know is common with coils.

I also have the service parking brake on which just started not long ago.
 
Intermittently. P2195 and P2197. Had P0133 a couple times as well. But the main codes I have are P2107 and P2110 which I know is common with coils.

I also have the service parking brake on which just started not long ago.

Does your AC and heat work correctly?
 
Intermittently. P2195 and P2197. Had P0133 a couple times as well. But the main codes I have are P2107 and P2110 which I know is common with coils.

I also have the service parking brake on which just started not long ago.
Well...let us know when you get the coils replaced...if symptoms persist ...I would say it's one of three things
  1. Vacuum leak
  2. PCM connection or PCM needs to be reflashed
  3. Faulty throttle body and/or sensors or actuator
 
Is that common? Makes sense when it’s warmed up too. I’ll check it out.
Have you tried propane gas around the manifold or any other hoses and see if the RPMs get higher? It's just weird that the car runs better when cold than warm ..usually if it's a vacuum leak...its just the opposite...the gasket will expand with heat which lessens the leak obviously due to expansion
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top