Ongoing vibration/transmission issues. Updated w/ pic cracked housing :mad:

I have to agree with chicken, they cracked it when removing or replacing. I done mine myself in the garage and didn't cause that kind of damage when removing the old seals. Hammered both back in evenly with no leaks at all. From the looks of the old seal, I would say they caused the crack when it was removed but again, no telling how they went about hammering it in.
 
I agree with Chick-fil-a. I bet they did that when hammering out the old seal or hammering in the new one. I would get the new tailshaft from DLF or Jamie and have the shop pay you for the cost of a new one since now you have to go through the trouble to swap it out. I wouldnt trust them to touch the damn thing again.
 
I absolutly agree, whomever did the r/r on that seal cracked your trans tail, the ripples in the ring shouldn't be there, use a rubber dead blow or a lead hammer to install that seal, and the claw to remove it, never hammer any seal into an aluminum part with an iron hammer!
Sounds like something a Jim-bobs auto service would do

and screw drivers, are used to remove screws, not seals :-) ...every now and then they make nice miniature prybars...this isn't one of those times

no kidding he offered to do the u-joints for free...but that needs to be done as well as him replacing the part he ruined
that shop should pay all expenses if you toon it in for a trans service, tail wasn't leaking before, you would have noticed just as you notice now, unless your old seal was completely destroyed at the rubber, which from the pics doesn't look horrible just old...I would immagine a seal in that range of use was probably only dripping a quart every couple months?
 
Makes me wonder what the front seal looks like inside. If it were me, that whole trans would come down, out of the car, while you watch. You still have a leak in the front too and I'm sure their R/R was the same method as the rear.

Exhaust needs to be dropped, fuel tank needs to be dropped, 4 bolts removed from the back of the drive shaft and then pulled from the trans. Trans then needs to be dropped out and tail shaft replaced and both front and rear seals and I would go with OEM if possible. Maxx has them for right at $10.00 each.

When everything is all put back together, there should not be any trans leaks unless your pan leaks. If they do drop all of this, make sure they connect all fuel tank hoses back like they're supposed to be. By the sounds of them, they would forget a few.
 
That sucks, so many hack shops out there.
I doubt you will get anything from them.

Bring the car back tell them what the did to your car, see what they say.
Report them to the B.B.B.

Never go back.

Even if they didn't crack your shaft, some butt wipe knew it was fubar.

bastards.
 
Sapperfire said:
I absolutly agree, whomever did the r/r on that seal cracked your trans tail, the ripples in the ring shouldn't be there, use a rubber dead blow or a lead hammer to install that seal, and the claw to remove it, never hammer any seal into an aluminum part with an iron hammer!
Sounds like something a Jim-bobs auto service would do

and screw drivers, are used to remove screws, not seals :-) ...every now and then they make nice miniature prybars...this isn't one of those times

no kidding he offered to do the u-joints for free...but that needs to be done as well as him replacing the part he ruined
that shop should pay all expenses if you toon it in for a trans service, tail wasn't leaking before, you would have noticed just as you notice now, unless your old seal was completely destroyed at the rubber, which from the pics doesn't look horrible just old...I would immagine a seal in that range of use was probably only dripping a quart every couple months?
Click to expand...

No, actually while I was painting it there was always a small puddle under the car after I moved it. So maybe a quart a month. I've been fighting the leak in the transmission for a while. I thought it was the gasket. Replaced it twice with orielly gaskets then broke down and got the OEM gasket and was going to pay 10 to have a shop do it when I found out about the deal. They said they couldn't do it because the other seals on the transmission were leaking and wouldn't do it because of warranty. ( this is a respected trans shop in houston with 24 yrs in service ) Then I blundered and took it too a neighborhood shop to do the seals when they said they could do it ( while getting it inspected ). After that is when it started leaking badly. I didn't see the rear seal in the receipt so I figured it was the rear seal they didn't replace the first time and took it back for them to do it again. After they replaced the seal is when they found the crack.
 
Ugh, I hate this partial info chit and then "Oh, by the way it was leaking BEFORE they did anything at the same rate AND the shop did say there was a crack when they went to replace it.


You had this all worded like YOU found the crack and it didn't leak as bad until they worked on it.

A complete picture would have been nice from the beginning.


Anyway large driveling vibrations will cause the tail housing to crack. So I don't know what you have done but I would start with a new drive shaft. Check the diffs mounts and the pinion bearing.
 
Sorry, I am a dick and prolly read something into it that wasnt there.

The more I think about it the more I would guess drive shaft or bad carrier/pinion bearings.

My 97 had a vibration I could never find and when I gave the pumpkin to Sapperfire he pulled it apart to put gears in and found the carrier bearings were siezed. :eek:
 
LaserSVT said:
Sorry, I am a dick and prolly read something into it that wasnt there.

The more I think about it the more I would guess drive shaft or bad carrier/pinion bearings.

My 97 had a vibration I could never find and when I gave the pumpkin to Sapperfire he pulled it apart to put gears in and found the carrier bearings were siezed. :eek:
Click to expand...

No worries. I went back and reread and I see where it could have been misconstrued.

Here's the update. Took it to a new shop.

We got under the car and find that the pump is still leaking so while he may have replaced the gasket he didn't replace the seal and I knew that. I didn't know that replacing the gasket is useless without replacing the seal as the gasket is just for dirt .. the seal is what keeps it from leaking. And since he didn't replace the back seal and I brought the pan seal I"m wondering what this guy thought would be the benifit of doing the work. Wish I knew what I knew now before I started all this. The gasket's are not what is important the seals are.

We get under there to take a look at what's going on and we find the crack again of course and I explain the vibration so he takes a ride with me. The back seat is out of my car so he was sitting right on the metal and said there is no problem with vibration from the drivetrain and it's def. tire related.

But ohhhh there's more guys don't check don't leave before it gets good. I complained to this guy that there is a new vibration from under the car since I brought the car in to get the gasket changed the 1st time ( 1st of the two times at the first shop ). We found that the exhaust pipes were sitting on the brace that goes under the car and was rattling against it. The exhaust manifold on one side had a pipe seal on it holding the two parts of the exhaust togeather. ( one of those hose sealers that you screw to tighten ). Yea, I forgot to mention there is a new exhaust leak. I saw some screws on either side of the exhaust where there looks like there should be some type of cross-brace to hold the pipes up ( am I right? ). Well that was missing and right above it the drive shaft had a GOUGE about a 1/6 inch deep. It looks like there was something rubbing the drive shaft right there.

On top of that there are 3 HUGE chips in my NEW PAINT JOB on the bottom of the door where it hit the lift. :mad: :mad: :mad:

The guy is charging me 325$ to replace the rear bell housing and put the new seal and gasket on the back and fix the exhaust problem.

Also, I talked to my bank and they said to go back to the 1st shop and ask for my money back and if he doesn't give it back call them and they will. They will take care of the rest.

Here's the deal. They didn't replace the SEAL in front of the transmission and so there was no increase in pressure inside the transmission. They only put on the new gasket on the bottom. They also didn't replace the back seal or gasket the first time which means there was no increase in pressure inside the transmission so they MUST have cracked the rear bell housing.
 
Myco said:
No worries. I went back and reread and I see where it could have been misconstrued.

Here's the update. Took it to a new shop.

We got under the car and find that the pump is still leaking so while he may have replaced the gasket he didn't replace the seal and I knew that. I didn't know that replacing the gasket is useless without replacing the seal as the gasket is just for dirt .. the seal is what keeps it from leaking. And since he didn't replace the back seal and I brought the pan seal I"m wondering what this guy thought would be the benifit of doing the work. Wish I knew what I knew now before I started all this. The gasket's are not what is important the seals are.

We get under there to take a look at what's going on and we find the crack again of course and I explain the vibration so he takes a ride with me. The back seat is out of my car so he was sitting right on the metal and said there is no problem with vibration from the drivetrain and it's def. tire related.

But ohhhh there's more guys don't check don't leave before it gets good. I complained to this guy that there is a new vibration from under the car since I brought the car in to get the gasket changed the 1st time ( 1st of the two times at the first shop ). We found that the exhaust pipes were sitting on the brace that goes under the car and was rattling against it. The exhaust manifold on one side had a pipe seal on it holding the two parts of the exhaust togeather. ( one of those hose sealers that you screw to tighten ). Yea, I forgot to mention there is a new exhaust leak. I saw some screws on either side of the exhaust where there looks like there should be some type of cross-brace to hold the pipes up ( am I right? ). Well that was missing and right above it the drive shaft had a GOUGE about a 1/6 inch deep. It looks like there was something rubbing the drive shaft right there.

On top of that there are 3 HUGE chips in my NEW PAINT JOB on the bottom of the door where it hit the lift. :mad: :mad: :mad:

The guy is charging me 325$ to replace the rear bell housing and put the new seal and gasket on the back and fix the exhaust problem.

Also, I talked to my bank and they said to go back to the 1st shop and ask for my money back and if he doesn't give it back call them and they will. They will take care of the rest.

Here's the deal. They didn't replace the SEAL in front of the transmission and so there was no increase in pressure inside the transmission. They only put on the new gasket on the bottom. They also didn't replace the back seal or gasket the first time which means there was no increase in pressure inside the transmission so they MUST have cracked the rear bell housing.
Click to expand...

..........your automotive theory is all wrong gaskets and seals both keep fluids from leaking. basically gaskets go between non moving parts and seals are between something that moves and something that doesn't (there are exceptions). your hose sealers?! are i think might be a hose clamp. rear bell housing, nope thats a tail shaft. when you go into the shop do you try and tell them what you want done? or do you go in and say its leaking trans fluid? i think you'd be better off saying its leaking trans fluid, and see what they find. after reading this post if you go go into them and try to tell what you want done they will clearly know you don't know much about cars and this opens the window for them to take advantage of you.
 
chicken said:
..........your automotive theory is all wrong gaskets and seals both keep fluids from leaking. basically gaskets go between non moving parts and seals are between something that moves and something that doesn't (there are exceptions). your hose sealers?! are i think might be a hose clamp. rear bell housing, nope thats a tail shaft. when you go into the shop do you try and tell them what you want done? or do you go in and say its leaking trans fluid? i think you'd be better off saying its leaking trans fluid, and see what they find. after reading this post if you go go into them and try to tell what you want done they will clearly know you don't know much about cars and this opens the window for them to take advantage of you.
Click to expand...

I did #2. And I mis-used gaskets/seals by simply re-iterating the mechanic. I don't claim to know about the innards of a transmission I was simply telling you what the mechanic said.
 
Myco said:
I did #2. And I mis-used gaskets/seals by simply re-iterating the mechanic. I don't claim to know about the innards of a transmission I was simply telling you what the mechanic said.
Click to expand...

ok thats fine, ive just seen people come into shops and say replace this part, and they do but that wasnt the problem, well too bad, cuz you didnt pay them to diag it you just wanted a part installed

id go to a 3rd shop (start fresh) tell them what was done and have them look at it

im still sticking to my guns (worked at a ford dealer as a tech for 12 years) and ive seen some hack jobs from some smaller shops that will make you cry (tires plus stripped out a caliper bracket bolt and held it in place with black silicone) i dont care what bs the first shop gave you they broke it removing the seal and if not the dumb ass should of seen the big effin crack, since the pic is dark as hell and i can see it plain as day
 
LOL chicken.

It just plain sucks if you own one of these dam cars and you have to "find"
a shop.
 
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