Ok: carpet/headliner samples on the way.. more questions and pics *pics*

I used to work for the company that made the original carpets for our cars (Masland).

I did NVH testing. We tested the differences in noise levels in the car with different carpet types. I did a lot of testing on the Mark VIII. Here's a couple of tips you might be able to use.

The original carpet backing is EVA (Ethyl Vinyl Acetate) it looks like your new carpet is a poly backing. Poly is lighter, but is not as good a noise barrier as the thicker, heavier EVA.
Back then a lot of imports used poly.

We used to sometimes have to cut the openings in prototype carpets like you will have to.
I used to put the original carpet on top of the prototype to mark the openings with a marker.
I would mark the openings smaller than original, then trim them once the carpet is on the car floorpan just to make sure I didn't cut too much.

I would test fit the carpet first to see how it fits. It looks like the new carpet doesn't have the same thickness of the needled cotton (sometimes called Shoddy, looks like compressed dryer lint) that is used as a sound absorber/decoupler.
Where possible, I'd try to use some of the original thicker shoddy depending if the fit will allow it. A little hot glue will work to stick it. Never glue the absorber to the floorpan of the car, it needs to be decoupled.

The white diaper bags are for heat insulation, I'd try to transfer those to the new carpet as well.

I like the color of your new carpet.:)
 
billcu said:
I used to work for the company that made the original carpets for our cars (Masland).

I did NVH testing. We tested the differences in noise levels in the car with different carpet types. I did a lot of testing on the Mark VIII. Here's a couple of tips you might be able to use.

The original carpet backing is EVA (Ethyl Vinyl Acetate) it looks like your new carpet is a poly backing. Poly is lighter, but is not as good a noise barrier as the thicker, heavier EVA.
Back then a lot of imports used poly.

We used to sometimes have to cut the openings in prototype carpets like you will have to.
I used to put the original carpet on top of the prototype to mark the openings with a marker.
I would mark the openings smaller than original, then trim them once the carpet is on the car floorpan just to make sure I didn't cut too much.

I would test fit the carpet first to see how it fits. It looks like the new carpet doesn't have the same thickness of the needled cotton (sometimes called Shoddy, looks like compressed dryer lint) that is used as a sound absorber/decoupler.
Where possible, I'd try to use some of the original thicker shoddy depending if the fit will allow it. A little hot glue will work to stick it. Never glue the absorber to the floorpan of the car, it needs to be decoupled.

The white diaper bags are for heat insulation, I'd try to transfer those to the new carpet as well.

I like the color of your new carpet.:)
Click to expand...

thanks, good suggestions. Last night I washed the old shoddy and it held together well and that got a lot of the dirt out of it. Today I'll put some febreeze on it an call it a day.

What I'm debating on now is if I should use some 3m Rubberized Undercoating under the Shoddy. I've read a lot of people putting it in wheel well's but not under carpet. I don't have money for dynomat but I do have some of that 'peel an seel' (like roof flashing) I spoke about earlier. I'm thinking of laying that stuff down around the firewall area (as I'll be taking out the dash too to replace the heater core).

Right now, in doing that I'm just worried about tar smell during the summer. I put a bunch of that home depot 'peel n seel' in the doors but I'll be taking that out. I did it b/c a friend suggested and didn't do the reasearch myself. After reading up it sounds like it's just a matter of time before it all sloughs off, but they do say putting it on flat surfaces is ok. I'm going to read up a bit more and see if there is a 'tar' smell if it's under the carpet and see if I can get away with that.


Thanks for the input.
 
Anything you add can probably not hurt. The undercoating is probably a lot safer than the peel and stick. It will reduce noise, even if just a little. But it all adds up!! And as long as you have it out, go for it!

Wish we had a decibel reader. We could read the interior road noise of a similar mark on the same road as yours, then read yours for comparison.
 
unity said:
Anything you add can probably not hurt. The undercoating is probably a lot safer than the peel and stick. It will reduce noise, even if just a little. But it all adds up!! And as long as you have it out, go for it!

Wish we had a decibel reader. We could read the interior road noise of a similar mark on the same road as yours, then read yours for comparison.
Click to expand...

I work for a sound level meter company now.:D

The best thing would have been to take data before he did anything as a baseline, then test after the changes.
 
I've just gotten everything from GMAN and am in the process of pulling the seat belts etc... friend has rinoliner in his truck for years now and it doesn't smell at all... so I'm looking into that.

The Plush is pretty thick but I don't see it as 60$ more thick. If you were walking on it in bare feet you could tell a difference. Otherwise I think it will just hold dirt in more aggressively. ;-)
 

Hey Sean-
That tar smell will not just be around during summer. It will be
around everytime you drive your car. The exhaust system will heat up
(very hot) the tranny hump and the floorboard around it cooking the Home
Depot tar strip and you kinda get the idea.


The Rhino Linings or Line-X bedliner is a good idea. Its been sprayed on
car interiors before on a few custom cars as an effective sound
deadener with no ill effects. I'd have mine done if I could afford it.
 
I wish I could still get sponsorship discounts from Dynamat. I was able to
get their 36 sq ft bulk pack normally sold for $ 270. at their cost for only
$75.

Amazon has them in stock. You can get it now (01/12) for $135 retail
w/free shipping.

I just bought one a few days ago to use on my roof and trunk.


 
I measured my cars stock at 75dB - 77dB C-weight / slow response at cruise.

88dB on acceleration. 92dB at WOT.

Your measurements may vary by a little
depending if you've removed the intake silencer, resonator, have made any
exhaust upgrade or have BFGoodrich tires. :)


I have not yet measured my car with sound deadening installed cause its not
completely done yet.

Ren
 
The 3M stuff is rated -30 to 170 degrees F while the Rhino Liner is rated at -40 to 180 degrees F .

I'm going to go ahead and put it on the interior (floor board) and stay away from the cat area and hope for the best. I've read a lot about rhino liner on interior's doing well. So, considering the 10degree difference I'm imagining staying away from the axhaust area will be sufficient.

Or at least I hope.

btw: They do say in the document sheet for 3m that it can be used on floorpanels / interior panels. Not that that means anything. ;D
 
Very interesting thread here.

I used undercoating on the floor of my car a couple years ago and not a single smell since then. I live in south Louisiana where there is just as much humidity as temp during the summer and not a problem with smell.

However, for a couple of days I did smell it in the car after I put the carpet in.

I took everything out and sprayed the floor, replaced drivers seat and used the car for about 3 days, I then used some (forgive me) home carpet insulator and then placed the stock carpet on the top. I had to replace that padding because I had a hurricane Katrina car and I pressure washed the heck out of the carpet and threw away that padding.
 
I totally screwed up with the headliner guys. I bought charcoal black that looked good at the store but I didn't bring a carpet sample. Turns out there is more blue in it than black. Looks horrible but it's done already. I'll have to re-do it someday. :(

I'll post pictures once the seats are in and the carpet is finished. I am having to wait for the heater core to come in the mail to put the dash back in. Heater core comes friday. :mad:

Just to note: I am impressed with the build of the 3m undercoating. I've even been banging it with tools today and no chipping etc... I did stay away from the cat area though to be safe like I said I was going to do.

2 cans did 2 coats over 90% of the floor.
 
isaih your car was in katrina??????

anyways, myco you should get that drivers big toe looked at,

you ever drive a hyundai elantra, talk about road noise
 
Sure was. About 6 inches inside of it. Got flushed and new starter and permanently borrowed seats and its all good! Seat tracks were locked up.

The carpet came out and pressure washed it and replaced the stuff underneath.
 
I'll post pics soon. It's all done. The molding did not line up correctly so with the floor molding in place it seemed like the whole rug was 2 inches back.

I cut out the back half of the insulation attached to the carpet and used all of the original insulation.

The original insulation I sprayed down with soap and water and then put them in pillow cases in the drier with fabric sheets. They handled the dryer fine. No damage.

There are wrinkles here and there but I'm betting (praying) they will smooth out after a while.
 
Dry cleaners in my area have professional portable steamers.
See if any in your area will let you steam your carpet.

You can also purchase a new Bissell portable steamer model for
less than $30. but it might not get as hot as the ones used
by dry cleaners.
 
Just put the new carpet in over the old.
You may have to trim it at the rockers but it will all fit.
 
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