New Member from Houston, And I already have a Question!

its the degas bottle we all have been there when this car overheats always start there. get the oem its worth it the doorman really does suck I went through 3 of them and then I ended up getting the oem and that fixed my issues.
 
So what parts did you replace already. Please list each.

T-Shape hose
Thermostat Housing with Thermostat
Hose Assembly that connects to the water neck and thermo housing (2nd time)
water neck that goes down to the engine block that attaches to the hose assembly
Degas Bottle

Flushed Radiator fluid--free of junk (nothing suspicious(debris))
Bleed twice.
I am using Zerex G-05 radiator fluid free of phosphate along with distilled water. 50/50 mix

Drove the car earlier for about 10-15 min after warming up to mid temp and the vehicle never overheated but fan was on HIGH.

I checked the degas bottle and I need to let it cool to Fill to MAX line again.

Joegr- I greatly appreciate your help with this issue, thanks for replying!!!

As I mention above in earlier posts to Joegr.
I have already replaced the Degas bottle which was $204 from the stealership.
 
now did you inpect the thermostat housing, you got the thermostat housing cover from autozone but the housing and there is also a tube behind the housing that goes to the engine that you cant see from the outside, I had that leaking into the engine and it may not be visible from the outside you may have to remove that and inspect that tube. my recommendation if you have over 100k miles replace all cooling parts they go bad almost at the same time, use rockauto.com to order your stuff. I got all the parts I needed minus the degas bottle for less than $400, do this and you will be good for another 100k miles.

but for your immediate fix remove the thermtostat gasket and inspect that tube I will just replace it if you went to the trouble of getting to it
 
yes i have inspected it and it nothing is leaking.
I have replaced the tube that goes into the engine too. it was brittle so i then replaced it.

I think am going to order a Motorcraft thermo housing and thermostat from rock auto

:( round 7 or 8....i lost track already lol
 
Have you tried a new cap on the degas bottle? If it doesn't hold pressure the system doesn't work right.
 
Actually, When I bought the degas bottle it DID NOT come with a new cap. It did by the way come with the bleeder hose and bottom hose.

I have noticed also that during the last step of the bleeding process there was barely any pressure when I removed the cap.
 
Also I have this "whilsting noise" coming from the throttle body/Manifold area, when am driving. The whilsting stops and goes as I tap the gas pedal....Weird
 
Cap is a separate P/N (8100 for GEN 1 V8)
It's not included with the purchase of the Coolant Overflow tank, just went through this when I recently bought mine.
 
None of mine came with the cap, but they did come with the hoses. I'm still on the original caps on both LSes.

for the $5.95 it's not a bad idea to just go ahead and order a new cap when replacing the Degas bottle.
Keeping the old one (if still good) in the trunk as a spare in case of emergencies.
 
mines came with the cap maybe cuz I have a gen2 but its the same bottle for both gen. get a new cap the LS cap is supposed to open and release pressure and then it supposed to close back up again. I actually had one that went bad and I had to replace it so for 6 bucks get it and try again.
 
Think of it as a one-way valve.

Except that it is two way. It lets air back into the system if the cooling system pressure goes below the external pressure after it cools down.

System pressure < atmospheric pressure = valve in cap opens.

System pressure > atmospheric pressure + 15 PSI = valve in cap opens.
 
I guess I should have elaborated to think of it as a one-way valve when hot.
If it wasn't allowed to inhale air when cooling down it would begin to collapse on itself, I would think.
 

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