New Member from Houston, And I already have a Question!

04_Lincoln_LS

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Hello!
I have been a long time lurker on this forum and now I have decided to join after a long battle with the LS.

Name is Jose and I am from Houston, TX.

Not a great way to introduce my self with a few question for the LS GURUS already LOL

Yes, I have used the search tool plenty of times but this time I cant really find a solution for the problem I am having. (Maybe)

2004 Lincoln LS 3.9L with about 118K miles on her.
The radiator fan is working way too much (Loud) to maintain running temp on the car.
I have replaced the T shape hose (#1) OEM
Replaced Thermostat housing and Thermostat (#3) Aftermarket (Duralast)
Replaced the hose assembly OEM
Replaced the water neck assembly OEM

I also did a coolant bleed from the link you guys have provided in past threads

Here are a few details of what I have seen when the car is running.
1. Car does not overheat but FAN RUNS LOUD
2. T-Shape Hose (#1) gets hotter than normal (I think) (After I shut down the car I feel the hose and it feels like theres is some bubbling inside going on, Vibration type of feel)
3. Hose (#2) that connects to the degas bottle is hotter than normal (I think)
4. There appears to be condensation ( air bubbles ) in the degas bottle
-----Degas Bottle has some cracks but are not serious(I think)--------
-----Also when opening Degas Bottle (There appears to not be much pressure being released when opened---------
5. When vehicle is idling or rev'ed up to 2k-3k rpm's I noticed there was some bubbling effect in the degas bottle (too much movement inside) ( Also the bottle is very hot)

Hopefully I have provided you guys with enough info to help diagnose this problem.

I would GREATLY APPRECIATE any help!!!

Let me know if you guys need any additional info on the car.

THANKS!!!
-Jose

IMG_0886.jpg


IMG_0887.jpg
 
You're no different than everyone else who has posted this problem.
You must:
1. Replace the degas bottle, use the OEM part, not the Doorman.
2. Replace any remaining plastic parts that you have missed, except the radiator.
3. Fill and bleed exactly by the factory procedure.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33004.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_142

There's a lot on info on this forum about all the plastic parts, the part numbers, and where to get them.
 
ANY crack in the degas bottle is cause for concern. Like Joe said, replace the bottle with a MOTORCRAFT branded bottle.
 
Thats what I have read in past threads.
Degas bottle = Expensive (LOL)

Do you think this might be the reason why there is a bubbling effect in the bottle when engine is idling or running?
 
Thats what I have read in past threads.
Degas bottle = Expensive (LOL)

Do you think this might be the reason why there is a bubbling effect in the bottle when engine is idling or running?

You have bubbling (coming from the engine bleed hose I am sure) because there is air or steam in the coolant. Air would be because of a leak. Steam would be because coolant is boiling in the engine. This could be because the cooling system isn't pressurizing due to the degas bottle.

Note that the temperature gauge needle will still be on the center line when it is too hot. It doesn't move past the center line until it is way too hot.

I've also seen coolant boiling (and bubbling in the degas bottle) when the system wasn't filled and bled correctly.
 
There is still steam in the degas bottle ( I bought a new one from Lincoln) I am still in the last part of the bleeding process ( waiting to cool and add coolant to MAX fill line)

Engine fan kicked in at full blast during the 75 degree process.

I felt the T-shape hose and it has a vibrating feel to it ( Boiling coolant??)

During the installation process I also went ahead and drained the radiator fluid.
 
Finished the Bleeding process and am still getting steam (coolant drops inside the degas bottle)

I let it cool a bit more and turned it on again and the fan began to blow about 2 minutes in and never shut off only when the temp inside was raised to 90 degrees.

I think am going to take a loss and sell the car as-is. Am running out of options and $$
haha
 
Also the upper hose (T-Shape) has definite high pressure.
Lower hose is cool to the touch and not so high pressure.

Could this be a blown head gasket?
 
Finished the Bleeding process and am still getting steam (coolant drops inside the degas bottle)

I let it cool a bit more and turned it on again and the fan began to blow about 2 minutes in and never shut off only when the temp inside was raised to 90 degrees.

I think am going to take a loss and sell the car as-is. Am running out of options and $$
haha

There's still a leak somewhere. Look for a whitish residue.
 
There's still a leak somewhere. Look for a whitish residue.

Alright Gotcha!
I will start looking this morning.

Question: On the Temp Housing (Duralast Version) When you open the cap, there is a little pocket that when it is over filled it begins to drain out.<<<< Is this suppose to be like this?

Am trying to find the old one I had to compare them.

Thanks for the advice! :)
 
I was "told" by an individual that the Duralast Thermo/Housing already come pre-assembled and there is no need to remove or re-install the T-stat.

The housing came with the T-Stat already pre-assembled.

I do not see a leak (White residue) anywhere :(

Maybe replace the thermostat again?
 
nevermind on the breather hole on the temp-housing LOL

The car cooled over night and I just topped it off to the MAX Fill line.
 
Am going to do another bleed on it shortly.

When coolant begins to flow out of the heater bleed its coming out but its not a steady stream, more like inconsistent stream.

This time I will let it bleed until it looks like a "stream", right?
 
Yes.

BTW, was some form of stop-leak ever used on this car?

am about 10-15 min in as we comment and there is only irregular dripping coming from the bleeder hose. I will keep waiting.

As am waiting I hear a whistling sound coming from somewhere for about 10 seconds then the fan kicks in (low) and the whistling Stops.

About every 2 min.

.....

No sir, not that I know of.
 
OK.....Am still waiting for the "stream" of coolant to bleed but am getting no constant flow.

its been about 35-40 min now, and still no "stream" flow

:(
 
OK.....Am still waiting for the "stream" of coolant to bleed but am getting no constant flow.

its been about 35-40 min now, and still no "stream" flow

:(

You may have to press the gas pedal down and raise the engine RPM for a bit. It also may be that you still have a leak you haven't found which is keeping this from working.
You do have the climate control on max heat?
 
ok, I will raise the rpm's for a bit.
Yeah. thats what am thinking now....
correct, it is on max heat @ 90 deg.
 
Raised the RPM's and I got the steady current I was waiting for.

About 20 seconds in on the 75 deg process the Fan Kicked in HIGH. - and stayed high.

Am Lost guys.....lost :( lol
 
Raised the RPM's and I got the steady current I was waiting for.

About 20 seconds in on the 75 deg process the Fan Kicked in HIGH. - and stayed high.

Am Lost guys.....lost :( lol

So what parts did you replace already. Please list each.
 
T-Shape hose
Thermostat Housing with Thermostat
Hose Assembly that connects to the water neck and thermo housing (2nd time)
water neck that goes down to the engine block that attaches to the hose assembly
Degas Bottle

Flushed Radiator fluid--free of junk (nothing suspicious(debris))
Bleed twice.
I am using Zerex G-05 radiator fluid free of phosphate along with distilled water. 50/50 mix

Drove the car earlier for about 10-15 min after warming up to mid temp and the vehicle never overheated but fan was on HIGH.

I checked the degas bottle and I need to let it cool to Fill to MAX line again.

Joegr- I greatly appreciate your help with this issue, thanks for replying!!!
 
You really need to replace the degas bottle too!

Look at the attached diagrams.
You need 8592, 8A511, 8575, 8548B, 9N499, and all the related gaskets and seals.

8548A is a good idea while you have the intake manifold off.

cooling1.jpg


cooling2.jpg
 
All plastic pieces have been replaced for sure that you have mention.

As for the rubber seals, I did re-use the existing ones.
There was nothing wrong with them, no wear or tear, stretching etc...

I also measured the outside temp of the hoses using a laser temp reader, while the car was at idle.

T-Hose = 168 F
Hose from assembly to degas bottle = 161 F
Bottom hose from Radiator = 92 F
Thermostat housing = 128 F
Degas bottle = 94 F
 
All plastic pieces have been replaced for sure that you have mention.

As for the rubber seals, I did re-use the existing ones.
There was nothing wrong with them, no wear or tear, stretching etc...

I also measured the outside temp of the hoses using a laser temp reader, while the car was at idle.

T-Hose = 168 F
Hose from assembly to degas bottle = 161 F
Bottom hose from Radiator = 92 F
Thermostat housing = 128 F
Degas bottle = 94 F

Stop fighting it. Replace the degas bottle. It most certainly has hairline cracks.
 

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