New--Mark VIII Headers

What kind of headers?

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Legend1

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Hello everyone...I have a new project under way and need everyones help to push it forward. I have a well known header manufacturer who is going to work with us on headers for the Mark VIII. We need to decide what type everyone could agree on and then we have that style made. The most power will come from long tubes but we can make 3/4 or shorties. To give you an idea of cost we can have long tubes made for just under $700.00 for a full set. I would recommend the long tubes because they are the best bang for the buck. So here is what we need to move forward:
* What type header do we want shortie, 3/4, or Long Tube.
* 10-15 people interested in a group sale
Once I know what everyone wants I can get a rock solid price. Everyone will be pleased at the price though. There will now be choices in headers for the Mark VIII.
Thanks....John
www.templeperformancecars.com
john@legendmustangs.com
 
New Headers

They will be HPC ceramic coated steel headers. I can not justify stainless because of the cost. Steel will hold up just as good. That is all we have run for years on everything from our street cars to our race cars.
Thanks
 
I could handle carbon steel as long as its got a quality coating.


Keep us informed.


You want me to copy this to the MarkVIII section?
 
Coated carbon steel will not hold up as good as 304 stainless. What is the cost difference? How much does the HPC ceramic coating cost (which you could skip on 304)?
 
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What's all your worries with ceramic coated steel? None of you guys who are running headers are driving in snow or rain so what's the big deal..even bare steel will hold up if you don't drive in bad weather conditions, if cost is an issue, offer it in either bare steel or coated..and I vote for full length headers, we already have access to 3/4 length.
 
keVIIIn said:
What's all your worries with ceramic coated steel? None of you guys who are running headers are driving in snow or rain so what's the big deal..even bare steel will hold up if you don't drive in bad weather conditions, if cost is an issue, offer it in either bare steel or coated..and I vote for full length headers, we already have access to 3/4 length.
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Yes we do but you have to buy them from Bill or used. I for one would rather give my money to John over Bill any day.
 
DLF said:
Coated carbon steel will not hold up as good as 304 stainless. What is the cost difference? How much does the HPC ceramic coating cost (which you could skip on 304)?
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:I

keVIIIn said:
What's all your worries with ceramic coated steel? None of you guys who are running headers are driving in snow or rain so what's the big deal..even bare steel will hold up if you don't drive in bad weather conditions, if cost is an issue, offer it in either bare steel or coated..and I vote for full length headers, we already have access to 3/4 length.
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Because it's aggravating as all :q to spend $800 on a set of headers just to see them rust after a few thousand miles. My Jet-Hot coated Kooks were showing rust after just 3K miles, without driving in the rain/snow. I wouldn't consider another set of coated headers.
 
I agree-

I would much rather have natural uncoated 304 then coated stainless....

As stated above, what is the cost of the coating compared to the cost of uncoated 304?


The best of both worlds would be coated 304 :)... had those on my last engine and 100,000 miles they still looked like new!
 
racecougar said:
:I



Because it's aggravating as all :q to spend $800 on a set of headers just to see them rust after a few thousand miles. My Jet-Hot coated Kooks were showing rust after just 3K miles, without driving in the rain/snow. I wouldn't consider another set of coated headers.
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It's aggravating as all hell to spend $800 on headers PERIOD..look at F-body or mustang headers, they are a fraction the cost cause so many companies make them, I think being able to even HAVE headers for these cars is amazing, let alone fancy stainless or coated..when was the last time you looked in your engine bay of an mn12 or fn10? tell me how much of the header/exhaust manifold you can even see without shoving your face in between the valve cover and shock tower, or crawling underneath the car. If cost is aggravating for most, then why fret over the little things, to be honest I'd just be happy to have headers. He should at least have an option of stainless or not..i sure would love to save a few hundred bucks if at all possible.
 
You should only offer stainless as the tooling cost aren't that much different, the welding might add some (little amount), and the additional material cost aren't huge. It would be a best effort header and you would have only one product to make and stock. A mid length header would offer the best of both worlds (performance wise). Only a hand full of folks could ever utilize full length headers. I would suggest mid length stainless only and hope you would get enough orders.
 
I would also vote for a mid length in stainless, long tubes on a mark would make a stared replacement a pita.
 
14.6@97MPH said:
Here are some coated non-stainless headers on a Mark. This guy, Johnny, did not drive his car everyday or in snow. He had these on his car for a couple of years. Geno installed these many, many years ago, he can tell you more about them.

http://www.markviii.org/htdocs/dc/d...opic_id=8385&mesg_id=8385&listing_type=search

Stainless would be better.
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Ya that looks terrible, must be some thin tubing..these hooker super comps (factory black coating from the factory) have been on my dads car for 26 years driven in nice weather/summer, sits in a non heated garage over the winter with plenty of moisture in the air..sure they aren't pretty but they get the job done and aren't rotting away..

62engine.jpg


oh well, i guess some of you have nice engine bays and want something pretty to go along with the rest, but for most..you can't polish a turd just by putting shiny headers on it..
 
keVIIIn said:
oh well, i guess some of you have nice engine bays and want something pretty to go along with the rest, but for most..you can't polish a turd just by putting shiny headers on it..
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Real nice! Stainless steel It also works better
 
I'd be on on a group buy, preferably stainless, but depends on cost. One thing is for sure, I'm not a fan of spending 800 dollars, plus all this extra crap that supercoupeperformance says you need from them for, like a million dollars extra. Besides, competition might drive Bill's prices down, full length wouldn't be a bad idea, as long as they can go in and come out. =P
 
Ill gladly pay the extra for stainless, but I can understand where John is coming from.


I don't understand your guys' problems with longtubes. Its not that hard to drop the subframe. Simple actually.
 
You would see all the wannabe buyers disappear as soon as the SS price gets listed. SS is nice but I have and used steel headers all the time. Also like mentioned you cannot see my headers at all from the engine bay. Why do midlenths when there already out there and most "header" guys want longtubes?
When made see if you can make where starter and trans could be pulled? Also 1 5/8 dia.
 
"you can't polish a turd just by putting shiny headers on it.."


That's true, but at the same time I don't have a turd and would prefer to put something that is good looking, and will remain good looking for years.


I can't stand the look of a set of rusty headers on an otherwise clean car.


2012-03-19212053.jpg


Kooks full lengths on an 01 Cobra. The underside was FILTHY when I snapped this one, but had those headers been rusty.........blech.
 
94m5 said:
"you can't polish a turd just by putting shiny headers on it.."

That's true, but at the same time I don't have a turd and would prefer to put something that is good looking, and will remain good looking for years.


I can't stand the look of a set of rusty headers on an otherwise clean car.
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Ditto.

onthelift3.jpg




Right on the Mark said:
Also would be nice for ball and sockets on end of headers(no leakey crappy gaskets)
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V-bands would be even better.
 
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