bryantaylor
Dedicated LVC Member
also, i just found my draw. i fell like a retard, i left my MP3 player adapter pluged into the cig lighter. unplugged it only shows a .8 amp draw. opps, lol.
need a hand finding electrical problem
- Thread starter bryantaylor
- Start date
ya see.. we can help you diagnose issues...and nine times out of 10 we as a group do very well in getting to the bottom of a particular issue.
BUT we cant fix "st00pid".
We have to assume the person has shown due diligence and isn't battleing some "self inflicted" issue.
BUT we cant fix "st00pid".
We have to assume the person has shown due diligence and isn't battleing some "self inflicted" issue.
ford nut
Local nut case
My money is on a future light show when the Batt. runs out of juice again.
Alas you and I will never know.
My cell phone adapter is pluged into my ride 24/7.
bryantaylor
Dedicated LVC Member
my mp3 is always pluged in too, never had a problem. but when i thought i had a big draw, it was still plugged in.
just went out to the car, started right up and drove fine. wtf?
mrzeee
Dedicated LVC Member
Thank you all for the kind words and the referrals.....
Now that the dust has settled.......
Just for future info......
cobra 130amp (must ext the harness a bit) retail $235.92 gold=$176.94
lvc regular = $184.02
mark8 120amp plug and play retail $209.07 gold=$156.80
lvc regular = $163.07
Add 60.00 each for the core plus shipping.
Gold gets 3day shipping for the price of reg ground as well.
12mo/12000 warranty on the alt. In the 8 years selling on the I-net sites I have replaced 2. In 25+years selling at the dealers Maybe 6 or 8 and some were for brg noise.
Now that the dust has settled.......
Just for future info......
cobra 130amp (must ext the harness a bit) retail $235.92 gold=$176.94
lvc regular = $184.02
mark8 120amp plug and play retail $209.07 gold=$156.80
lvc regular = $163.07
Add 60.00 each for the core plus shipping.
Gold gets 3day shipping for the price of reg ground as well.
12mo/12000 warranty on the alt. In the 8 years selling on the I-net sites I have replaced 2. In 25+years selling at the dealers Maybe 6 or 8 and some were for brg noise.
ford nut
Local nut case
Can't argue with those reliability stats. Impressive!
+1 Max is da man! :wrench
bryantaylor
Dedicated LVC Member
well guys. car started right up again no problem today. but i went to get some lunch and it started acting like it did the other day. motor acts like its not getting fuel or spark, starts to run funny and CEL goes off. a few second later the CEL will turn back on and everything is normal again. it did that twice in the short trip i made.
also the last few times i got in the car the pass side mirror would be pointing way up and out. i adjust it each time, but when i get back into the car, its up and out again.
also the last few times i got in the car the pass side mirror would be pointing way up and out. i adjust it each time, but when i get back into the car, its up and out again.
ALTERNATOR
DO YOU THINK HE HEARD ME?
I went thAlternator for sure, I dont care what the oreilys tester says replace it and it will fix youre issue. Mine did this for 2 months while it tested just fine til it shot craps on me then I believed the hub bub, as I sat on the side of the road. You have 50 people telling you the answer. Take the advise or enjoy walking. And how do you know there is a draw and what do you mean by that? When the ign is on yeah there is a draw. If its off there isnt.
ALTERNATOR BATTERY CHANGE THEM!
__________________
rough three napa before I bought the ford
and as far as the mirror goes youre keypad doesnt match youre seat and mirror settings, just set both 1 and 2 to the same positions and that should do it, or they are marked on the back 1 and 2.
DO YOU THINK HE HEARD ME?
I went thAlternator for sure, I dont care what the oreilys tester says replace it and it will fix youre issue. Mine did this for 2 months while it tested just fine til it shot craps on me then I believed the hub bub, as I sat on the side of the road. You have 50 people telling you the answer. Take the advise or enjoy walking. And how do you know there is a draw and what do you mean by that? When the ign is on yeah there is a draw. If its off there isnt.
ALTERNATOR BATTERY CHANGE THEM!
__________________
rough three napa before I bought the ford and as far as the mirror goes youre keypad doesnt match youre seat and mirror settings, just set both 1 and 2 to the same positions and that should do it, or they are marked on the back 1 and 2.
bryantaylor
Dedicated LVC Member
as far as the weird bucking and CEL light going off thing goes, i might have fixed that. i pulled out the ECU and took off my superchip. the board had a ton off old dielectric grease or something on it, so i cleaned the board and the connection on the chip with rubbing alcohol and put a piece of tape over the chip to make sure it stays put real good. drove around for 20 minutes or so and it drove perfect again.
battery hasn't went dead for the last few days either.
battery hasn't went dead for the last few days either.
bryantaylor
Dedicated LVC Member
got in and drove the car for about a half hour. started right up and drove normal again. could a crappy connection at my chip have caused all of the problems? after carquest charged and tested my battery, it hasn't went dead again.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
Charging test...
Here's what you need to do.
1. Engine off - battery standing voltage.
With the engine off and fully charged battery, hook up the meter directly to the battery terminals(not clamp, bolt, nut, etc...). Read the meter as volts DC. The voltage will depend upon the charge level of the battery, battery age and ambient temperature. 12.6 volts is considered 'normal'. Dry cell batteries (Optima and others) often have a lower standing voltage than typical wet cell batteries. Cold batteries will obviously have lower voltage readings, but a battery heat-soaked from engine temperatures will also read lower than normal.
2. Engine running - low idle - no load charging voltage.
Engine running at idle, all lights, accessories and AC off. Read the meter after voltage stabilizes from starting engine. Typical should be above the battery standing voltage by at least 0.5 volts (example 13.1 volts vs. 12.6 volts).
3. Engine running - hi idle - no load charging voltage.
Engine running at 1500 RPM, all lights, accessories and AC off. Read the meter. Should be higher than low idle no-load charging voltage but no more than 2 volts above battery standing voltage (example max 14.6 volts).
4. Engine running - full load charging voltage.
Engine running at 2000 RPM, lights on high beams, AC on MAX(blower on high). Read the meter. Should be between the low idle no-load charging voltage and the high idle no-load charging voltage (for example between 13.1 volts and 14.6 volts).
These readings give a good indication of the charging system while on the car. As it has been repeated many times, a bench test is no substitute for an on-vehicle test. Also keep in mind that a 'cold' alternator performs better than a 'hot' alternator. Alternator output decreases with an increasing alternator temperature. So testing 'hot' will yield less than desirable results.
Any alternator test assumes a fully charged battery and no wiring deficiencies. The factory battery terminals are notoriously cheap and subject to problems. Also check the battery cables for signs of corrosion. Any visible corrosion is a dead ringer for a bad cable as it is likely corroded internally far worse than the external indication. Also check the charging cable from the output terminal of the alternator. It is highly recommended to run an additional 4 gauge or bigger fused wire from the output terminal of the alternator to the positive stud on the power distribution box (under hood fuse box) or the positive battery terminal.
Often overlooked is the 20A alternator fuse in the engine compartment fuse box and the regulator harness connector on the alternator. I have seen many flaky connections with the regulator harness connectors on Ford vehicles. A 'wiggle test' will generally confirm this. Replacement harnesses are readily available to splice in place of the OEM harness.
Verify any alternator purchased (even from a dealer) is a "new" unit and not a reman. Inventories change all the time and remanufactured units are often sold as "new".
Here's what you need to do.
1. Engine off - battery standing voltage.
With the engine off and fully charged battery, hook up the meter directly to the battery terminals(not clamp, bolt, nut, etc...). Read the meter as volts DC. The voltage will depend upon the charge level of the battery, battery age and ambient temperature. 12.6 volts is considered 'normal'. Dry cell batteries (Optima and others) often have a lower standing voltage than typical wet cell batteries. Cold batteries will obviously have lower voltage readings, but a battery heat-soaked from engine temperatures will also read lower than normal.
2. Engine running - low idle - no load charging voltage.
Engine running at idle, all lights, accessories and AC off. Read the meter after voltage stabilizes from starting engine. Typical should be above the battery standing voltage by at least 0.5 volts (example 13.1 volts vs. 12.6 volts).
3. Engine running - hi idle - no load charging voltage.
Engine running at 1500 RPM, all lights, accessories and AC off. Read the meter. Should be higher than low idle no-load charging voltage but no more than 2 volts above battery standing voltage (example max 14.6 volts).
4. Engine running - full load charging voltage.
Engine running at 2000 RPM, lights on high beams, AC on MAX(blower on high). Read the meter. Should be between the low idle no-load charging voltage and the high idle no-load charging voltage (for example between 13.1 volts and 14.6 volts).
These readings give a good indication of the charging system while on the car. As it has been repeated many times, a bench test is no substitute for an on-vehicle test. Also keep in mind that a 'cold' alternator performs better than a 'hot' alternator. Alternator output decreases with an increasing alternator temperature. So testing 'hot' will yield less than desirable results.
Any alternator test assumes a fully charged battery and no wiring deficiencies. The factory battery terminals are notoriously cheap and subject to problems. Also check the battery cables for signs of corrosion. Any visible corrosion is a dead ringer for a bad cable as it is likely corroded internally far worse than the external indication. Also check the charging cable from the output terminal of the alternator. It is highly recommended to run an additional 4 gauge or bigger fused wire from the output terminal of the alternator to the positive stud on the power distribution box (under hood fuse box) or the positive battery terminal.
Often overlooked is the 20A alternator fuse in the engine compartment fuse box and the regulator harness connector on the alternator. I have seen many flaky connections with the regulator harness connectors on Ford vehicles. A 'wiggle test' will generally confirm this. Replacement harnesses are readily available to splice in place of the OEM harness.
Verify any alternator purchased (even from a dealer) is a "new" unit and not a reman. Inventories change all the time and remanufactured units are often sold as "new".
bryantaylor
Dedicated LVC Member
all of that stuff is good. but the plug on the alt could fit a tad tighter.
I would be more inclined to believe you had a connection issue at the battery, you removed it, tested it and put it back.
More likely battery connection than a chip issue.