My $300 LS build

stealthlinc

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This will be my first post, just joined yesterday, been lurking for a couple of weeks though. Anyways I just last Friday picked up a 2001 LS V8. FOR $300!!!!
Body is absolutely mint, interior is near perfect with the exception of the lower drivers seat,and the armrest. The car has 134,000 on it. He was told it needed a motor by the mechanics, so he parked it. I did my research on the symptoms it was having, and went back to look at the car the next day. Reached to the backside of the intake manifold and found the large plug on the Backside was missing.
 

stealthlinc

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A few pics of the start of my project. Removed intake manifold to replace it and the gaskets, pulled valve covers since i was already in there so i could check the secondary timing and tensioners.

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grizzlyls

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It looks like you are DIY mech. You probably got a great deal then! Just so you know, I had a 100k little old lady 2001 sport I picked up with all the receipts showing routine care. Yet so you know, I had to replace ALL the timing chain stuff. Not just the top. As it turned out my mechanic was right and it was the SECOND time in 100k that that all chains had been done. Anyhow I say that, because if you do it, talk to me and do it right - go with the second generation chains (non VVT version from 2002) as I did. Will be glad you did.

I need to do a write up about that now that its done. Being lazy lol
 

stealthlinc

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It looks like you are DIY mech. You probably got a great deal then! Just so you know, I had a 100k little old lady 2001 sport I picked up with all the receipts showing routine care. Yet so you know, I had to replace ALL the timing chain stuff. Not just the top. As it turned out my mechanic was right and it was the SECOND time in 100k that that all chains had been done. Anyhow I say that, because if you do it, talk to me and do it right - go with the second generation chains (non VVT version from 2002) as I did. Will be glad you did.

I need to do a write up about that now that its done. Being lazy lol


Timing chains and tensioners all look new, there is ZERO slack in any chains tensioner spring is very strong.
 

joegr

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Metal body or plastic body on the tensioners? If metal, you should be good on that.
 

04_Sport_LS

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Stealth,

As long as you have the covers off... you may want to do a compression test. That way if you have any valve train issues,,, you don't have to go back in again.
 

stealthlinc

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Stealth,

As long as you have the covers off... you may want to do a compression test. That way if you have any valve train issues,,, you don't have to go back in again.
I was thinking the same thing, all of my gaskets came in today. My plans for this weekend are to. Install new intake manifold, compression test, install new valve covers and gaskets, flush cooling system, do an off manifold throttle body cleaning, hoping to fire it by sunday. First fire and first maybe 10 miles will be on a high detergent oil, then drain and change to synthetic. Car sat for a bit, using a high detergent to clean out any gunk.
 

04_Sport_LS

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I'd just run synthetic from the beginning, because it is "detergent" oil too.

"Detergent" oil is a bit of a misnomer... because oil doesn't exactly clean away sludge/debris. The proper definition of detergent in oil... means that is suspends any particles in the oil,,, so that it is caught by the oil filter.

In contrast... air compressor pumps recommend non-detergent oil,,, because they don't want any particulates flowing through parts of the pump... but rather to steele to the bottom of the sump.
 

stealthlinc

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I'd just run synthetic from the beginning, because it is "detergent" oil too.

"Detergent" oil is a bit of a misnomer... because oil doesn't exactly clean away sludge/debris. The proper definition of detergent in oil... means that is suspends any particles in the oil,,, so that it is caught by the oil filter.

In contrast... air compressor pumps recommend non-detergent oil,,, because they don't want any particulates flowing through parts of the pump... but rather to steele to the bottom of the sump.
I typically use trans fluid as a cleansing detergent, not necessarily a "detergent motor oil" some people use seafoam in oil to clean gunk out, in my experience trans fluid work just as well if not better. Just dont want to run it long. Usually only about 2 miles after the vehicle hits operating temp. Then drain that oil, new filter and full syn.
 

04_Sport_LS

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There are some Jag owners,,, that use 1/2 quart of tranny fluid in their oil for the last 500 miles before the oil change. They say it helps keep the cam phasers cleaned out and working properly. I've thought about trying it... but haven't yet.

Since you have a Gen 1... you don't have to worry about that.
 

stealthlinc

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There are some Jag owners,,, that use 1/2 quart of tranny fluid in their oil for the last 500 miles before the oil change. They say it helps keep the cam phasers cleaned out and working properly. I've thought about trying it... but haven't yet.

Since you have a Gen 1... you don't have to worry about that.
I will typically do it on any used car i buy. Just an old habit i guess.
 

grizzlyls

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If you have the metals in top, then previous owner did it at some time. Now the trick is did they just do that or did they do a whole time chain redo. See if you can get a good look at the lower rails and the tensionor down there. OEM were crap plastic and break soon after the top one or near same time. Thats why mine had two times in 100k. Took the old crap out and put new old crap in. If your lower tensionors and rails are also later generation jag ones, like Joe says you should be fine.
 

stealthlinc

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I will try my hardest to get a look down behind the timing cover. I wish the core supports unbolted in these cars, timing chain jobs would be real easy then.
 

grizzlyls

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Oh just got to thinking too, check the manufacture date on the ford vin database. If it was post May 2001 you should have some of the corrected stuff in the timing chain arena. If you can get a look at the oil pump from up top, you may see a couple of nozzles that shoot oil on the chains where they meet the lower sprocket. You dont have the corrected 2002 sprocket on top though so not sure what stage of design you may have.

I was manufactured in March 2001. Missed it by that much! (Your old like me if you get that)
 

joegr

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I remember that expression... Get Smart wasn't it?
 

04_Sport_LS

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I wish the core supports unbolted in these cars, timing chain jobs would be real easy then.

Actually,,, if you get the cooling fan and misc cooling hoses out of the way... the primary timing cover isn't too bad to remove, (once vc's and crank pulley is gone)... + alt and PS pump ad A/C compressor.
 

grizzlyls

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Joe for the win on the Daily Double

04, nah I am just old, get to start ordering senior citizens menu and housing this April 1st :eek:
 

stealthlinc

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Ok, so after I checked, and double checked everything i could get to while i had the valve covers and intake off. I started to reassembled since all my gaskets came in, also did oem ngk plugs and new coils while i was in there. Also had throttle body powder coated. As well as painted a ton of stuff under the hood.
 

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