Mark VIII Project
- Thread starter kustomizingkid
- Start date
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Alldata is abit crappy, in my opinion. I got a subscription for my 93' Mark until July and i got a crappy chilton, so anything u wanna know just PM me.(or can put things in the thread, if you prefer)
If you really didn't mind posting up the stuff about these things I wouldn't complain;
Valve Cover torques spec and sequence
Oil pan torque spec and sequence
Rear Crank Seal Replacement
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Kool as hell 93, I think I will buy a one year subscribtion for sure.
View attachment 31503
View attachment 31504
Crank Seal Procedure
1. Remove tranny and flex plate.
2. Remove rear oil seal retainer bolts.
3. With oil seal retainer on clean, supported surface, drive out old seal with a suitable punch.
4. Clean all mating surfaces, then apply a suitable silicon sealer to engine block mating surface.
5. Install seal retainer to engine.
6. Tighten retainer bolts to 71 - 106 lbs/in
7. Install new seal into retainer using installation tool T82L-6701-A and adapter tool T91P-6701-A
View attachment 31504
Crank Seal Procedure
1. Remove tranny and flex plate.
2. Remove rear oil seal retainer bolts.
3. With oil seal retainer on clean, supported surface, drive out old seal with a suitable punch.
4. Clean all mating surfaces, then apply a suitable silicon sealer to engine block mating surface.
5. Install seal retainer to engine.
6. Tighten retainer bolts to 71 - 106 lbs/in
7. Install new seal into retainer using installation tool T82L-6701-A and adapter tool T91P-6701-A
View attachment 31505
No tightening sequence given for these. Personally, would just follow a head tightening sequence. Note the use of sealant in those certain places (where it meets front cover)
No tightening sequence given for these. Personally, would just follow a head tightening sequence. Note the use of sealant in those certain places (where it meets front cover)
Yeah, some parts are ok, but some bits are abit vague and useless, better than nothing though, i will admit... Better than Chilton for sure! Lol.
Roadboss
Dedicated LVC Member
Sure looks just like the real shop manual you can buy on EB for a few bucks.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks again 93, very helpful.
I'm getting the oil pan, valve covers, crossover tube, and a few other brackets sandblasted Monday.
I made an excel spread sheet and I am keeping track of the costs of this project.
I'm getting the oil pan, valve covers, crossover tube, and a few other brackets sandblasted Monday.
I made an excel spread sheet and I am keeping track of the costs of this project.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I worked on the Mark again last night, had some ups and downs.
The good:
I was able to remove the drivers side cat and manifold with only a little bit of trouble. The egr tube was a real bitch and broke into the differrent peices in order to be removed. After I had the cat loose and the o2 off and the egr tube off I couldn't get it out. Ended up taking a long pry bar and put it in the rear most exaust port and gave it a few good raps with a hammer, dropped right onto the floor. I test fitted the 01 cobra manifolds and it look like I wont even have to modify anything to use it.
The bad:
I messed up the fuel lines that attach to the fuel rail. I can't decide wether it was my stupidity or the lines being a little sticky due to age. I also had some issues with the power steering pump. What does that thing that has the electrical connector going to it? You have to rotate the connector out of the way to get one of the bolts out. On my new motor when I removed the pump it rotated easy and the bolt just slid out, on the pump on my car the thing wouldn't rotate and after forcing it a little I heard a cracking sound. My geuss is that I messed something up, nothing that can't be fixed though.
After actually working on this car all I can say is that it is kind of a BITCH! I have never had a motor that was nearly this hard to pull. I geuss all the trouble working on the motor is made up the first time you let that 4v wind up to 6k, fun fun.
The good:
I was able to remove the drivers side cat and manifold with only a little bit of trouble. The egr tube was a real bitch and broke into the differrent peices in order to be removed. After I had the cat loose and the o2 off and the egr tube off I couldn't get it out. Ended up taking a long pry bar and put it in the rear most exaust port and gave it a few good raps with a hammer, dropped right onto the floor. I test fitted the 01 cobra manifolds and it look like I wont even have to modify anything to use it.
The bad:
I messed up the fuel lines that attach to the fuel rail. I can't decide wether it was my stupidity or the lines being a little sticky due to age. I also had some issues with the power steering pump. What does that thing that has the electrical connector going to it? You have to rotate the connector out of the way to get one of the bolts out. On my new motor when I removed the pump it rotated easy and the bolt just slid out, on the pump on my car the thing wouldn't rotate and after forcing it a little I heard a cracking sound. My geuss is that I messed something up, nothing that can't be fixed though.
After actually working on this car all I can say is that it is kind of a BITCH! I have never had a motor that was nearly this hard to pull. I geuss all the trouble working on the motor is made up the first time you let that 4v wind up to 6k, fun fun.
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
I pulled my last one with PS pump, exhaust manafolds, transmission and everything still attach right out the top. you just need a couple of friends and a few good pry bars.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I pulled the parts cars motor out without unbolting anything besides the subframe....
The drivers side cat/manifold looked like it would hit the steering shaft so out it went. The pump was removed because we are prepping the new motor as the old one is pulled.
The drivers side cat/manifold looked like it would hit the steering shaft so out it went. The pump was removed because we are prepping the new motor as the old one is pulled.
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
So I ran into a problem with my good motor. The bell housing bolts are mucked up , kind of cross threaded or something. Is there anyway to fix this?
try a Tap & Die, but I would rather see you use a Heli-Coil screw thread insert kit especially for aluminum...taps are great for steel or to chase threads, but the heli-coil is the best guaranteed.....
hope this helps
hope this helps
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
Hey kid, did you get your fuel line's out?
kustomizingkid
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm going to timesert the bellhousing bolts.
I'm getting some new lines from Jamie, just gotta send him some money.
I'm getting some new lines from Jamie, just gotta send him some money.