Manually shifting

MarkVIIIS

MarkVIIIS

Dedicated LVC Member
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Alright I might be going to the track tomorrow to get my best time before I do the cobra intake and meth and possibly delete the imrc's, the last time I went it was only shifting at like 5900 rpm in auto so I think I'm gonna do a few runs to get my launch where I want it then I'm gonna try to manually shift it hopefully around 6800rpm my question is when would I want to shift it to get it shifting at that point and also if I do delete the imrc's can I just use apply to fill the holes in the imrc's any help would be great thanks
 
Don't plug the holes between runners going to the same cylinder. No matter what you use, it'll eventually fail and make its way into the cylinder. Plug the end holes and the holes between cylinders. I made aluminum plugs for the ends of my aluminum IMRC's, and I filled the holes between cylinders with JB Weld.

imrcdeletes2.jpg

imrcdeletes3.jpg



Markviiiedrea said:
You dont want to plug the holes your self for risk of the plug coming out and falling in the cumbustion chamber.
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The JB Weld will not escape the pockets between the runner pairs (see pic above for clarification). If you're referring to the holes between runners on the same cylinder however...:iconcur:
 
I tried adjusting them myself before I maxed them out and it still shifted at the same points
 
I just ran a 13.2 again but I drove it like I did the last time I think I'll see 12's if I heat the tires a little better and shift it manually well see
 
Savagecat27 said:
Manually shifting sucks
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My car was inconsistent as hell when I manually shifted it back in 2011. I was in the same predicament as you. Shift points were too low for my liking and so I shifted at or just below the limiter which at that time was ~6800 rpms. I will tell you this though, on my NA setup my car gained 2-3mph and an average of 2-3 tenths when I manually shifted the car beyond the tune's shift points which were set at 6200(1-2)&6400(2-3). My car shifts at 7,000 rpms now and I think it may be a bit too high for my power level.

If your car is shifting at 5900 with the tune I can tell you without a doubt that your shift points are way too low. I'll bet cash money if you have your shift points up in the 6800 rpm range your car will be faster in the 1/4 mile without changing anything else.

There is no easy way to get the car to consistently shift at a desired rpm if you are manually shifting. There is that dreaded mechanical delay when you do it that way and you will never be spot on every run. Adjust those shift points via the tune.

Also, my dyno tuner had the same issue when trying to raise the shift points like you and there is a particular setting in the tuning software that needs to be tweaked in order to allow a commanded shift point to complete when so desired. Maybe I am wrong but I think it was a speed setting dealing with recognized mph in the tune. Again, I am no tuner but there is a setting for it somewhere if your software allows for that adjustment.

Shift high with the tune and get that Cobra intake on your car and you will run 12s all day long.
 
Does anyone know why when I change my shift points with my sct live wire it doesn't do anything right know I have all my shift points set at +7 and its still only shooting around 5900rpm
 
Savagecat27 said:
Does anyone know why when I change my shift points with my sct live wire it doesn't do anything right know I have all my shift points set at +7 and its still only shooting around 5900rpm
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I am fairly certain that my tuner raised the WOT mph settings. You need to bump your mph up if you have that setting.
 
Yeah I manually shifted twice then gave up on that every time I would glance at the rpms I would move the steering wheel just enough so that I would lose traction and have to let off the gas and on my last run I went in auto again and was having traction problem I think the tire psi was perfect my first run then I lowered it a couple times this was also the first time I tried flashing the converter which I did every time but the first so idk
 
Did u say in that other thread that your car car was performing better with the konis set all the way soft cause I had mine all the way stiff
 
Savagecat27 said:
Did u say in that other thread that your car car was performing better with the konis set all the way soft cause I had mine all the way stiff
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Nah, not really. I was probably wrong for going full soft. I looked at my timeslips and my car was consistent no matter how they were set but I have way too many other issues that are leading to crappy launches. Next time I am going to go full firm on the shocks and jack the tire pressure up as high as I can go without spinning along with an extreme makeover Lincoln edition.

I got the tire pressure advice and Koni shock setting advice from DLF. I'll trust the faster guy before I believe in myself, the slower guy. LOL He actually doesn't go totally full firm on his but I speculate that since I do not have Delrin in my car and I am on coils I need to just jack them all the way firm and get things as stiff as possible since I am lacking in that department and have original bushings here and there throughout the car.
 
I definitely need some practice I was getting a little frustrated I wasn't getting traction and my shift points were Terrible
 
Savagecat27 said:
I definitely need some practice I was getting a little frustrated I wasn't getting traction and my shift points were Terrible
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I find it hard to believe that you aren't getting any traction? If your tire pressures are adjusted accordingly and you are burning those babies in the box, you should be hooking. Don't drag water with you out of the box. Roll out of the box while still spinning. You'll do much better once those shift points are up. But man, you gotta hook.
 
It's not really off the line it's once I'm going I start to swerve just enough that I have to let off the gas skittle to correct it but its probably just my crappy driving
 
I wish You lived around here so Barry and I could help out or you could even get help from RobertP. Definitely should be faster but I just don't know how to help with the information I've read and not seeing the car. Best of luck to you. All I have in the rear other than stock is a Saturn5 brace, Neoprene Differential bushings, and a Sport Thunderbird rear sway bar. Plus the rear coil conversion springs and shocks that are of unknown origin but are just avg. run of the mill. Oh and the M/T street ET's and I have no traction issues so with out seeing you car I have no idea why your having traction issues. I'm quite certain its not your driving. Just about anybody could get in mine and run 11's.
 
Could the track just not have been prepped good or something idk wut they really do to prep it but it felt like I was driving on an ice rink
 
I was also wondering is it a big deal to drive the front wheel through the water before a burn out or should u go around it and back into it cause I did it both ways and it didn't seem to make difference
 
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