Long crank time.

[LaserSVT]

So hoping some ideas can be thrown at me here.

First thing in the morning the car takes 2-3 seconds of cranking before it starts. When its warm it starts within a second but if it has sat for more then a couple hours it again takes 2-4 seconds to start.
Car idles smooth, no stalling or stuttering issues at all. No CEL, fuel filter is new, spark plugs are new copper ones, coil boots are all new, two coils are new (could it be more coils going bad?), all the vac lines are crack and dry rot free..... not sure where to go next. Car runs strong to redline and no detonation so I figure the pump is good, no?

The 97 idled like crap on super cold mornings but it always fired up within a second.

 

[DieselDan]

My 94 Had a bad check valve in the fuel pump. The pressure would bleed down and take a second to build pressure. Try this, cycle the key on and leave it for like 5 seconds, then crank it, see if it fires quicker. I replaced my pump and it fixed it.

 

[LaserSVT]

Hmm, I will give this a try!

 

[XLRVIII]

dan's probably right

 

[XLRVIII]

cycle the key twice


key 5 on seconds
cycle key off
key on 5 seconds
start car

its probably the return line check valve

 

[LaserSVT]

Well its been sitting long enough and its cold enough that it should have taken a few seconds to start. I turned it on, waited 5 seconds and it fired right up. I will do this again all day tomorrow to confirm.
Guess that just means when I get the pumpkin from the 97 I will also pull its 255 newish pump. Downside is the 98s exhaust is fully welded so getting the tank down is gonna suck.

 

[LaserSVT]

Return line check valve? Where is this located? Also when I swapped the filter there wasnt any pressure and it seemed on the 97 I always got a quick little splash of fuel out.

 

[XLRVIII]

Car runs strong to redline and no detonation so I figure the pump is good, no?

well the mileage window is between 75-150K for pump failure..some last longer but are very weak by then

 

[LaserSVT]

So again today i waited 5 seconds and it instantly started. So where is this return check valve? I assume its in the pump assembly? Or is it in the pump itself?

 

[XLRVIII]

So again today i waited 5 seconds and it instantly started. So where is this return check valve? I assume its in the pump assembly? Or is it in the pump itself?

yes it's in the pump assembly...

 

[DieselDan]

Its replaced when you install a new pump assembly. If you want to be extra sure, like I did, hook up a fuel gauge to the fuel rail... When you turn the key on, the pressure will come up. When you cycle the key off, the pressure should stay up, if it falls, its definately the pump.

 

[wood_e]

Had the same problem in my 07 Focus believe it or not...

 

[XLRVIII]

Honestly that's how your supposed to start a ford EFI car.
it might not be in the manual, but...

Turn the key on, wait for the fump pump to quit running, start the car.
it gives time for the fuel pump to fully prime/pressurize the system
it gives time for all the sensors and gadgets to answer "roll call" and report all the important data the PCM needs to make the car run.
Of course, most of the above happens in the blink of an eye.....

but if you just jump in and crank the key to start, the PCM is trying to get the crank strategy going, WHILE it's taking "ROLL CALL"...

I've done this all the way back to my first EFI car, The SVO
cranking to start always made it "unhappy", versus turning the key to "run", wait..then crank.

 

[LaserSVT]

Dan I was hoping to just replace the pump. IDK if my assembly from the 97 is dammaged or not from the tank dent.

 

[DieselDan]

Honestly that's how your supposed to start a ford EFI car.
it might not be in the manual, but...

Turn the key on, wait for the fump pump to quit running, start the car.
it gives time for the fuel pump to fully prime/pressurize the system
it gives time for all the sensors and gadgets to answer "roll call" and report all the important data the PCM needs to make the car run.
Of course, most of the above happens in the blink of an eye.....

but if you just jump in and crank the key to start, the PCM is trying to get the crank strategy going, WHILE it's taking "ROLL CALL"...

I've done this all the way back to my first EFI car, The SVO
cranking to start always made it "unhappy", versus turning the key to "run", wait..then crank.

That may be the correct procedure for starting a car, however in this case, there is something wrong. I wouldnt expect there to be anything wrong with the new pump, but I guess a visual inspection might be your best bet. If it looks okay, I say give ita try. Also see once you get it out, where the location of the dent in the tank was. Might have dodged a bullet.

 

[LaserSVT]

I know the pump and cage are fine in the old tank but think the float may have got tweaked. Guess I can change sending units and reuse the old float.
Ill pull it all this weekend off the old car.

 

[driller]

All you need to be sure is a fuel pressure gauge.

There is a leak down limit for the fuel pressure. It should remain within 5 psi from shutdown pressure for one minute.

 

[LaserSVT]

Yay! Another tool to buy! :wrench








I still have to buy two ratcheting wrenches tomorrow to do the drive shaft and the front UCAs..... crap, forgot to go check what the front bolt size was so I buy the right wrench.

 

[MediumD]

Could be a leaky FPR as well...

 

[micahs97m8]

it might just be a cold battery....most likely the pump though

 

[THANATOS]

it might just be a cold battery....most likely the pump though

mine was doing that last year. the colder it was outside, the weaker the battery and the longer it took to start, til it just died one day. i replaced the battery and no more long start.