LED front turn signals question

Here you go:
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Looks cool. video of it flashing?

I am interested to see if it fades like a normal filament bulb, or if it has that instant on/off flashing.
 
Its instant on-off. The brake lights are still original, and the hazards almost seem out of time from front to rear because of the delay of the old rear bulbs. The fronts hit you like a strobe, ON*OFF, but the rears seem to fade in and out. You can definitely see the difference.
 
Yea on gen2s you can see the delay of filament bulbs in the tails to the LED bar in the top of the window, I like the instant on/off of LEDs, I wonder how they would do in my tinted tails though. Plus I remember when I got the LED reverse-lights, they were like $60 for the pair.
 
Not sure I need resistors. There are none installed now and I have no "Bulb Out" messages. I just have no parking lights. :mad:
 
has anyone figured this out yet - friend of mine just put in new 25-LED bulbs from superbrightleds.com and when his parking lights or headlights are on - the bulb is at full-brightness and will not blink (but it will if they're not on) - which seems to be pretty much everyone elses problem as well.
 
I have LED signals and they dont light up as park lights, but I have a gen2 and it has LED side marker already. I also have halos, so it looks freaken sweet.
 
That happened to andrizzle and I with the LED brake lights. When you had the parking lights on, they would be at full brightness, and when you pressed the brakes, since they were already at full brightness nothing happened.

This should work for you too. Put a 100ohm 10w resistor in series with the parking/running lights to reduce to voltage gooing to the bulb resulting in a dimmer light, until the turn signal is used.

Also, on the brakes, the bulb out message sensors turned out to be only on the running lights wire, so it would only give us the error with the running lights, not when they were off because only the brake wire was being used to brake. I put a resistor in parrallel from the power wire to the running lights wire to simulate the filament bulb's resistance and the error message was fixed.You have to wire it after the resistor in series for it to work, like this

LEDresistors.png





Let us know if it worked. I would do it myeslf but dont have any led turn bulbs to try it out with
 
many thanks - we'll give this a shot soon and let you know how it turned out. Seems like there's several people who have the same issue and haven't resolved it either.
 
i just tried to do the brake lights with the series resistor and the jumper resistor (both from radio shack) and nothing changed except for now when i lock the car it blinks 5 times. what gives? the only thing i can think of is that maybe the different LEDs have different current draws???
 
You tried the resistors on the brake lights or the turn bulbs?

What bulbs do you have?
 
Send me the link to them if you can.
 
Problems solved.

themis69. I tried putting in the amber bulbs as brake light, which are the brake bulbs you got but in amber, and the bulb out message did not appear. Just putting the resistor in parralel on the running lights wire and power wire will take away the bulb out message with or without an LED bulb since the resistor's load will be there. You must have wired something wrong for it not work for you. By the way, not sure if you have gen1 or gen2, but if you have a gen1, you colors might be different.

Like I said before for the brake bulb LED's, the parallel resistor is to get rid of the bulb out message and the resistor in series is so the brake lights flash brighter when you press the brake with the running lights on, instead of them being bright all the time with the running lights and not lighting brighter when the brake is pressed. The resistor in series goes on the runninglights wire (gen2 black/blue) , in between the bulb and the resistor in parallel.


twinpilot and everyone else.
For the front turn bulbs, to make them work with the running lights, you need to add a resistor in parralel. Not sure where the cut off is but a 47 ohm resistor made it work but made them stay dim. A 10 and lower resistor made them work like a normal filament bulb would work. I soldered in a 6ohm 50w resistor from v-leds because it's what I had around.

This will also allow your angel eye rings to flash when you lock the car when you install the LED bulbs as well. Andrizzle, since you like it without the amber bulbs lighting up with the running lights so you can see the angel eyes better, you dont need a resistor, but for those who want the rings to flash and the ambers to be on with the rings, just add the a 10 or lower ohm resistor in parallel with the running lights wires. Gen2 running lights wires on the headlight turn bulb harness are black/blue and black/white. Gen2 running lights wires on the car's harness are black/white and grey/red.


Adding a 10ohm or lower resistor in parallel with the running lights should also fix the problem with the dual turn signals that light up white then amber when you use the turn signal.


By the way, I noticed that my rear turn signal stayed on very dim like the interior LED lights use to. I added a 100 ohm 1w resistor in parallel to the 2 rear turn bulb wires to shut them off completely
Done, going to sleep.
 
Nice work. That is weird your signals stayed dimly lit.

Alax another resourceful LVC member. Great job with this man.

I assume you made it so your parking lights come on with the LEDs. Lets see some photos of this.
 
Thanks.

I'll get some today.


Also, I noticed the 2 led bulbs on the side marker onboth headlights dont light up. Do yours?
 
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