jmod issues, woes even

[dnehthend]

well, :q:q:q:q

here are the specs I used and where I drilled, the crossed out lines are the ones I skipped, I used the image on the right, I guess I must have printed out that pdf a long while ago

the pictures tell the story, I put the :q:q:q:qing cap on backwards and ruined everything

how I put it on backwards is beyond me, such a simple and obvious thing

 

[NoLimit95]

If that is a pic of a 97 plate to the left, I guess they are the same as 98's but something is wrong with the pics floating around of a gasket that is supposed to be for a 97 when compared to a 98. It was hard to verify because I could never find plate numbers. Anyway, now you know where you went wrong and I hate seeing that damage. Is there any way to smooth out those gouges and still use the plate and just finish drilling it?

I had some new 1-2 and 2-3 pistons that I had used in the 94 but when the garage burned, I let a Mexican just get all the junk out and those went with that trans. I wished I had removed them but...

Also, I knew I wasn't going crazy when I said hole locations between the 97 and 98 were different.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/page14.shtml

 

[majorownage]

Damn dude, sucks. That :q:q:q:qed :q:q:q:q up!

 

[m_maker]

how I put it on backwards is beyond me, such a simple and obvious thing

If the pictures show how you took the cap out (I assume it was sitting on top of the VB), then it was installed correctly (the tabs go down), but it fell out just before you tightened the VB to the case. :shifty:

Flatten the case sharp edges, work a little on the plate, and it will be fine. Obviosly you had a huge cross leak around that area.

Also, I knew I wasn't going crazy when I said hole locations between the 97 and 98 were different.

Please red the specs, and say where does the 97 and 98 plates differ IN TERMS of drilling the holes (as stated above) ? The hole #8 is only to be touched on 93-95 VBs. In all others, it stays original.

 

[NetKeym]

Jerry's Notes on late model 4R70W j-mod's 1998-

Ignore what article says and do this...

1) Remove bottom 1-2 & 2-3 accumulator springs

2) Hole #2 is intermediate clutch feed (1-2 shift). Make this hole
.100"-.110" range (should be .081" in plate right now).

3) Hole #10 is reverse clutch feed & totally optional. If you want
to engage reverse faster, open this up to .093".

4) Holes #4 & #5 are direct clutch feed (2-3 shift). Open both
of these .100"-.110" as well. Make sure holes in the gasket
between plate & valve body casting is large enough (they
are sometimes a little small).

-Jerry

 

[dnehthend]

If the pictures show how you took the cap out (I assume it was sitting on top of the VB), then it was installed correctly (the tabs go down), but it fell out just before you tightened the VB to the case. :shifty:

Flatten the case sharp edges, work a little on the plate, and it will be fine. Obviosly you had a huge cross leak around that area.






Please red the specs, and say where does the 97 and 98 plates differ IN TERMS of drilling the holes (as stated above) ? The hole #8 is only to be touched on 93-95 VBs. In all others, it stays original.

After reviewing some pictures it appears that I did have it in the correct way, when I first saw the damage I thought that I must have screwed it up (the little bump does look like a spring perch).

I would like to find another plate if possible instead of just banging out the old one. How difficult should it be to remove the accumulator? I couldn't move it with my fingers. I think I should pull it out for inspection as well as the valve body itself (under the plate).

There was a thin layer of dark black material on the magnet no chunks or grit though

 

[DLF]

The accumulator should easily pull out using only your fingers.