I have had my GoPro Hero 960 serving as a dashcam for about 1.5 years now, and while it has done its job just fine, it started to become somewhat of a pain to manually operate. I would always forget if I actually turned it on as I just did it all automatically. The low-light performance of my specific model was also utter crap, so it was time to upgrade.
I picked up the Itronics ITB-100HD off eBay (apple-ct seller) for $195 shipped via EMS (took 4 business days to arrive from S. Korea). I decided to go with it instead of the Blackvue for numerous reasons:
- Doesn't overheat/get damaged from the summer heat
- Wider view angle and sharper video around the edges
- Uses regular sized SDHC cards
- Can disable shock sensing
The camera came with an English .PDF manual, and English software, yay!
I hard-wired it by using an add-a-circuit mini fuse tap in the passenger footwell fuse box. I used fuse #12, which has power only when the key is in the ACC position, which is how I wanted it. Routed the cable through the headliner (tucked in), down the A-pillar and through a hole in the side of the dash, right above the fuse box. Voila.
Last photo was taken with a flash. Here is a quick sample clip @720p:
Nice Following Distance - YouTube
And finally, an image comparison between the Itronics and my GoPro (resized):
I picked up the Itronics ITB-100HD off eBay (apple-ct seller) for $195 shipped via EMS (took 4 business days to arrive from S. Korea). I decided to go with it instead of the Blackvue for numerous reasons:
- Doesn't overheat/get damaged from the summer heat
- Wider view angle and sharper video around the edges
- Uses regular sized SDHC cards
- Can disable shock sensing
The camera came with an English .PDF manual, and English software, yay!
![DSC_3490_s.jpg](/forum/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F95820%2FLS%2Fitronics%2FDSC_3490_s.jpg&hash=92f449f4ad58196250ba580691bcaec4)
![DSC_3492_s.jpg](/forum/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F95820%2FLS%2Fitronics%2FDSC_3492_s.jpg&hash=4bce363d6f89830ecf2b2c6fedf77a95)
I hard-wired it by using an add-a-circuit mini fuse tap in the passenger footwell fuse box. I used fuse #12, which has power only when the key is in the ACC position, which is how I wanted it. Routed the cable through the headliner (tucked in), down the A-pillar and through a hole in the side of the dash, right above the fuse box. Voila.
![DSC_3473_s.jpg](/forum/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F95820%2FLS%2Fitronics%2FDSC_3473_s.jpg&hash=4768566b64a590994ff8d245c1c1c271)
![DSC_3475_s.jpg](/forum/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F95820%2FLS%2Fitronics%2FDSC_3475_s.jpg&hash=e85f6a9f3a34ee38b326826907c2ac5d)
![DSC_3481_s.jpg](/forum/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F95820%2FLS%2Fitronics%2FDSC_3481_s.jpg&hash=7a1754451628624d86eabaf4855321a7)
Last photo was taken with a flash. Here is a quick sample clip @720p:
Nice Following Distance - YouTube
And finally, an image comparison between the Itronics and my GoPro (resized):
![gopro-itronics.jpg](/forum/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fdl.dropbox.com%2Fu%2F95820%2FLS%2Fitronics%2Fgopro-itronics.jpg&hash=77ed5d5cb1cd9fa12a0a12ce701f7ae3)