intermediate shaft

joegr said:
$49.95 (includes shipping)

They sent it with the boot and collar too.
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You made out a hell of a lot better than I did. I think I ended up around $150 because he only sent me the lower half first and then wanted more money to send the upper half. I really couldn't argue since it was my only source for the part. All my local yards would only sell the entire steering column.
 
hit mine with two shots of wd40 per u-joint.. knocked the sound out about 90%. more will prolly do the trick thanks.
 
joegr said:
The junkyard part just arrived. It is actually the complete intermediate shaft assembly, and the joints feel smooth. I probably won't get to install it till this weekend.
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So, I did put it in this weekend. So far, it works great. The resistance in the steering is gone and it is quiet.
 
joegr said:
So, I did put it in this weekend. So far, it works great. The resistance in the steering is gone and it is quiet.
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Joe, what are the dangers of just letting this go? Even though I've sprayed the crap out of those joints the popping, snapping sound is getting louder. I am a little leery of getting a used, unproven item.
 
I've had this problem too, and the sudden feeling of the joint locking up mid-turn is quite scary. And if you aren't expecting it, I could certainly see that leading to a loss of control.
 
I would think that eventually you'd lose the ability to steer, either by it locking up and being unturnable or by it breaking the connection between the steering wheel and the rack.

I don't know how much warning you'll get before that or if it can go this way for weeks or years. I don't recall hearing of this actually happening with an LS.

You might take your intermediate shaft out and see if you can verify that it is definitely where the problem is before you get another one. (You are supposed to replace the pinch bolts, but you should be able to just paint some more loctite on them.)
 
2000sport said:
I've had this problem too, and the sudden feeling of the joint locking up mid-turn is quite scary. And if you aren't expecting it, I could certainly see that leading to a loss of control.
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Fortunately it only happens during very slow maneuvers (backing into the garage) and intermittently. I guess I'll try and source one.....

joegr said:
I would think that eventually you'd lose the ability to steer, either by it locking up and being unturnable or by it breaking the connection between the steering wheel and the rack.

I don't know how much warning you'll get before that or if it can go this way for weeks or years. I don't recall hearing of this actually happening with an LS.

You might take your intermediate shaft out and see if you can verify that it is definitely where the problem is before you get another one. (You are supposed to replace the pinch bolts, but you should be able to just paint some more loctite on them.)
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That's waaaay more work than I do these days!!!!! The sound didn't appear until sometime after the dealer replaced the rack years ago (it's my wife's LS and i don't drive it much..). I'll just find one and have it replaced.
 
Tasca may show it as discontinued, but a new one is on it's way to me for $174.86.
 
Joe.... It looks like Alldata shows a half hour book time to replace the shaft. Is that correct? Just how hard is this if I attempt it myself/
 
LS4me said:
Joe.... It looks like Alldata shows a half hour book time to replace the shaft. Is that correct? Just how hard is this if I attempt it myself/
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It's pretty easy. The hardest part for me was breaking the sliding part loose on the used part without damaging it.

Put the car up on ramps. (You can use jack stands, but I have more trust in ramps.) Loosen the slider bolt. Remove the two nuts from the bearing plate. Remove the two pinch bolts (at the rack first and under the dash last) and pull the old shaft out. You have to collapse the slider all the way in to get the shaft on or off. Putting the new one in, tighten the slider bolt last. The shaft should only fit rotated the correct way.

Do be careful of the steering wheel. It will spin if you touch it at all with the intermediate shaft off.
 
Joe, can a failing joint cause the front to feel like it's wandering?

Also, do I need to do some kind of recalibration? ;)
 
you boys need to offer to 'calibrate' each other's 'shafts' in private not here on a public forum...
 
Got it yesterday.

Joe...
Is this really necessary?
Depower the supplemental restraint system (SRS). For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B .

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
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It looks like a bungee cord to secure the wheel and then start unbolting is all that is needed. Well.. I do need to get the front end off the ground....
 
So..... Now my steering wheel isn't centered :( What did I do wrong?????
 
LS4me said:
So..... Now my steering wheel isn't centered :( What did I do wrong?????
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How far off is it? If I remember correctly, it looked like you could only get it wrong in increments of 90 or 180 degrees.
 
joegr said:
How far off is it? If I remember correctly, it looked like you could only get it wrong in increments of 90 or 180 degrees.
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About 15º to 20º. I loosened everything back up and then removed each end (yes, I bungeed the steering wheel straight). I then installed the rack end and tightened up the bolt; next the steering wheel and finally the sleeve bolt.
 
LS4me said:
About 15º to 20º. I loosened everything back up and then removed each end (yes, I bungeed the steering wheel straight). I then installed the rack end and tightened up the bolt; next the steering wheel and finally the sleeve bolt.
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That all should have been correct. I wonder if the new shaft is off by that 15 to 20 degrees?
 
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