Intake Resonator/Silencer Removal

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

Pencil and paper Hand saw Rotary tool Bench grinder (optional) Hole saw for a drill (optional) Two-part epoxy Silicone RTV sealer Basic hand tools (socket set, screwdrivers, etc)

Hard pedal after one or two pedal usages and the yellow flashes on comes on and off

LET'S GET STARTED

First remove the engine cover, if you still have one! After that, remove the intake tube by unplugging the sensor and vacuum line near the back of the tube. (This is a good time to replace the rubber line if it’s soft or cracked.) Unscrew the hose clamp that holds the tube to the air filter assembly and unbolt the resonator from the intake manifold. If you still have the big resonator (from the previous Tech article) that covers the engine, this is the time to remove it too.

Pull the weather stripping below the windshield wiper arms; otherwise it will interfere with the intake tube removal. The final step is to take a ¼” drive wrench and loosen the bolt at the back of the tube. The tube will now slide out of the back of the engine and twists off the air filter assembly.

With the intake tube on your workbench, take a saw to both the resonator closer to the throttle body and the second smaller resonator that is cast into the body of the tube. Make sure this final cut follows the contour of the intake tube. Use a rotary tool to smooth out the seam and use a rasp and file to smooth out the texture. Pay special attention to the new holes in the intake tube, they must be filed down smooth and evenly to seal properly.

Now it is time to plug the two holes. I traced out the holes with pencil and paper to make a template. Then use the template to cut the properly sized “intake plug” using the resonator (you just sawed off) as material. From there I used a rotary tool and a bench grinder to make both plugs fit seamlessly over the two intake holes.

From there you apply epoxy to both mating surfaces (intake tube, both intake plugs) and wait from them to bond! After the epoxy dries, coat the edges with silicone to make sure the plugs will not leak air. Keep in mind that leaks on the intake tube will make the car run terribly; the mass-air meter cannot read those leaks!

Once the silicone is dry, reinstall the tube and everything that still connects to it. Reinstall the engine cover and it’s all done!

Well, that's most of it:

For those who do not use their engine cover, you might be more concerned with making the tube look nicer. LincolnsOnline member JP has this to offer:

[After cutting off the resonators] I used a file to clean up the edges of the opening and filed it at an angle so the opening was trapezoidal along the perpendicular axis. Then I hacked out pieces from the resonator(s) to match the openings in the intake tube. I meticulously matched the shape and outer profile so the pieces fit flush. With the edges filed at an angle where the outside was larger than the inside, the piece(s) fit flush without falling to the inside of the intake tube. Makes sure the inside edges are smooth and free of burrs.

Then it was a simple task of 'welding' the pieces in place using a HD electric soldering iron. When doing so, you will have a melted grove around the perimeter of the piece. I used shavings from the rasp as 'filler' to complete the weld. Then some more work with the rasp and file followed by sanding it smooth. I even used some body filler to smooth out minor pits here and there.

Finish sand and paint the outside and clean the inside of the tube, and voila`! Here is your very own custom intake tube minus the resonators.
 

what the?...:confused: x2 what
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Are you sure it's in the same place on a LSC ... LOL ... Also the Flux Capacitor needs to be removed or you are screwed ... Didn't see the Flux Capacitor in the diagram ...
 
While you're there, you need to check your Intech fluid in the reservoir. You don't want that to get low or your Intech quits working. :shifty:
 
Old thread I know. But thank you for the information and supply list
 

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