ILLS disappeared?

Thanks for the clarification. I'll look into replacement.

Or maybe changing the AF ratio in the tuning device? I don't remember whether or not I'm able to change that in the end user settings.

If you have the ability, then it's IN there.. but it's "not the best way" to make it happen.. but would be good for a "test".
 
All this trouble is persuading me to consider a dyno tune for my car (if anyone around here could even do that)....but I am unsure what price brachet those run in :p


they aren't cheap.. roughly $100 per hour.

but you generally dont run into these problems.. or these problems are discovered and recitified ON the dyno.
 
plus I'm not good at replacing a fuel pump or the other possible problems I've heard occur. I just want more torque and hp and thought the SCT with ILLS tunes would be the answer
 
It still is a good option. I just didn't know how to go about resolving the issue, and I was a little bull-headed in the beginning, because I was afraid of messing with the timing. I was afraid I'd mess up my car, because I've never messed with timing or anything before.
 
It still is a good option. I just didn't know how to go about resolving the issue, and I was a little bull-headed in the beginning, because I was afraid of messing with the timing. I was afraid I'd mess up my car, because I've never messed with timing or anything before.

well anything you do to address this issue will be light years ahead of not doing anything.

I'd be more afraid of hurting the car by taking no action.

pulling some spark or adding some fuel will be "good things", especially IF they help get to the bottom of the problem.

we'll talk further I'm sure.. I PM'd you my cell # give me a call at your convenience and I'll see if I cant make your head explode with a data overload!
haha
 
Hey XLRVIII what can I do to change the timing on the xcal? I didn't know you could change the timing on it from the device, thought you needed the software. Just PM me with the answers - Thanks
 
Frasch, you can change the parameters right before you load the tune.

It should prompt you to change them. It will ask about changing or modifying the parameters. Scroll through them to the timing selection. Specifically, it says "spark timing". Mine does not have a global change, I have to change it in the different RPM ranges (0-2000,2000-4000,4000-8000 IIRC)

If you have a similar issue as mine, it COULD be the timing. click back -2 degrees in each RPM range to see if that's your issue.

That was the information I was given a few times before I tried it. Turns out that was not the issue with mine, but now I'm on the right track to getting it resolved.
 
Ok thanks Pete after I sent that last reply I thought you could change it on the xcal in that spot - thanks!!
 
Sure thing. It's pretty much the only thing concerning this that I have knowledge about.

The LS is the first car I've messed with performance-wise, so I'm still really green.
 
Sure thing. It's pretty much the only thing concerning this that I have knowledge about.

The LS is the first car I've messed with performance-wise, so I'm still really green.

I'm greener than you! :p

btw pete what make and model was your differencial and did it make the HP and/or TQ much more crisp in acceleration? I was thinking, is so, I should put in a differential like yours then get a dyno tune since I know there's plenty of pieces to the LS holding it back from true performance :-D
 
I'm really nowhere near where traction because of an excess of hp is an issue. It was more for winter traction, and to whip proper donuts :D

IIRC, the LSD I have is from an 05 Mustang GT. Although, any 8.8", 28 spline carrier will work, as long as you reuse your stock ring gear and pinion.

If you are looking for more acceleration, you'll have to do a lot more work to gear up like Jason did (02LSE96LSCetcetc....). He's got 4.10's and a trac-loc, but he moved up to an 8.8" pumpkin, and needed to fabricate custom mounting brackets, and a custom driveshaft.
 
Hey XLRVIII what can I do to change the timing on the xcal? I didn't know you could change the timing on it from the device, thought you needed the software. Just PM me with the answers - Thanks

If the SCT dealer didn't enable those options, then you cant.

It's in the custom program screen when you select the tune.
IF they are enabled the Xcal should prompt you to "adjust additional options" or some verbage along those lines.

then it'll take you thru three or 5 screens of available options.
you can adjust spark from 0-2000/2000-4000/4000 and up
and also add or subtract 10% fuel from the tune..and some other options..

but.. the dealer would have had to "grant you" the option to do this.
 
Ya it was a ILLS tune so I can change everything on the tune I believe. Thanks for the info
 
Well, I finally got a good answer about ILLS...

His main career is not KBX, he's in the Navy. He had also moved right around the time I got my tune. Since moving, he's been busier than ever.

I still have not heard back from him, just got an update on why I haven't yet.

But about my issue, it was fuel delivery. I added 10% into the AF mixture at WOT (thanks, xlrviii), and the rattle is gone. But that means that my fuel pump is probably on the way out.

Going to order a Ford GT pump to replace it with, so I shouldn't have fuel delivery problems later on (at least from the pump) :D
 
yeah i second that. you want a sock that fits in the basket right. I got the GT pump and got sick of it sucking air (one portion of it has to sit verticle) from the top of the basket so I completely removed the sock. This of course only happens when sucking down 50% more fuel on top of stock requirements. If the pump dies from picking up sediment, so be it but the tank was clean when I was in there. The filter will protect the engine and I can get an appropriately socked pump as Quik mentioned should problems arise.
If you don't plan on a power adder, just slap a replacement in and be done.
 
Hey Quik, how do I go about upgrading the current one? I have no idea when it comes to this, as I've never upgraded a fuel system before.
The other thing I'm wondering is, with 140K miles, maybe it's just time to replace the pump. I don't want to upgrade someting that may be on it's way out.
 
yeah i second that. you want a sock that fits in the basket right. I got the GT pump and got sick of it sucking air (one portion of it has to sit verticle) from the top of the basket so I completely removed the sock. This of course only happens when sucking down 50% more fuel on top of stock requirements. If the pump dies from picking up sediment, so be it but the tank was clean when I was in there. The filter will protect the engine and I can get an appropriately socked pump as Quik mentioned should problems arise.
If you don't plan on a power adder, just slap a replacement in and be done.

I plan on more power. so no stock replacement.
 
Hey Quik, how do I go about upgrading the current one? I have no idea when it comes to this, as I've never upgraded a fuel system before.
The other thing I'm wondering is, with 140K miles, maybe it's just time to replace the pump. I don't want to upgrade someting that may be on it's way out.

sure - that's very normal. You calculate your fuel needs, then size your pump.

My point in the previous post was - once you know what your needs are - you can get it from these guys better, cheaper.

I have an excel spreadsheet that I created to help you size injectors, fuel pump, supercharger pulley, ..... I'll send it to you if it will help.
 
would it be safe to say 50% more flow plus a 15% safety margin should be ample for an engine with stock rods, pistons and crank?

my stock pump ran at 90% duty cycle with the 100 shot. Pektel, you should datalog with your xcal to see where your duty cycle is at. It sounds like spark timing could be too advanced. I'm not a pro by any means but 10% richer seems like a lot. You may foul your plugs soon (still better than pinging). And if it made a difference (it did deliver more fuel when you asked it to), your pump is probably okay.

go back to stock and log some runs and also look at knock sensor values and then re-run with your tune and see if they look a lot different. I'm still unclear as to what their value is referring to, but i was looking for changes.
 
that'd be great. Thing is, I just want to put something in that will handle up to a moderate FI or nitrous setup, so I wont' have to change it again. I'm not changing injectors or anything yet. So I will be basing it on potential future needs.

I'll pm you my email address.

Thanks!
 
But about my issue, it was fuel delivery. I added 10% into the AF mixture at WOT (thanks, xlrviii), and the rattle is gone. But that means that my fuel pump is probably on the way out.

How did you discover this was the problem?

The tune ILLS gave me won't let me add more fuel. Weak!
 
How did you discover this was the problem?

The tune ILLS gave me won't let me add more fuel. Weak!

Because someone who didn't make a THIN DIME off of him "stepped up" and tried to help.

how's that for "support with NO SALE".
HAHA
 

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