i need some help with this one

Also, make sure that the key is in Run when testing the FPDM output voltage.

And have you checked for DTC's?
 
Try testing for voltage between pins 3 and 10 with the FPDM plugged in and the key in Run.
 
well dang i need to get a different tester then, all i have is the tester light that you clip to ground and poke through the wire insulation, but i guess those testers don't even work unless it is a full 12 volt current?
 
420ss said:
well dang i need to get a different tester then, all i have is the tester light that you clip to ground and poke through the wire insulation, but i guess those testers don't even work unless it is a full 12 volt current?
Click to expand...

I don't know, but you need a Digital Multimeter to do proper testing. ;)

And probe the back of the connector instead of poking through the insulation. Sometimes you need to use something like a paper clip to shove in the back of the connector.
 
i will pick up the right tester ASAP, would you mind if i hit you up and if you have the free time maybe helping me like you are doing tonight?
 
420ss said:
i will pick up the right tester ASAP, would you mind if i hit you up and if you have the free time maybe helping me like you are doing tonight?
Click to expand...

Sure, but all the info you need is already in this thread.

With the key in run, if you have ~12 volts at pin 9 of the FPDM, then the FPDM output between pins 3 and 10 is what feeds the pump.

If you have nothing, the FPDM is bad.

If you have 6-12 volts, then it's the pump, or the wiring to the pump.
 
Just a question if the crank sensor is not working wont that keep the fpdm from having the 12v to the pump?
I ask cause a crank sensor is much more common problem.
 
slowmkviii said:
Just a question if the crank sensor is not working wont that keep the fpdm from having the 12v to the pump?
I ask cause a crank sensor is much more common problem.
Click to expand...

I was wondering myself if it had been checked. Even the plug going to it is a problem sometimes. I mentioned it on the first reply but never heard anything else about it.
 
slowmkviii said:
Just a question if the crank sensor is not working wont that keep the fpdm from having the 12v to the pump?
I ask cause a crank sensor is much more common problem.
Click to expand...

That I don't know. The FPDM is controlled by the PCM, so it's certainly possible.

I also want him to check for DTC's.
 
Never, ever, use a test light on any vehicle that is equipped with air bags (SRS). The load of the bulb is enough to deploy the bag, potentially injuring and even killing you.

Back when I did car audio professionally, and SRS equipped cars started coming in for audio work, many installers were hurt and several killed (deploying bag broke their necks) while using a test light and they probed the yellow jacketed wires in the column.

I know this doesn't directly pertain to your situation, but I always try and warn people of the potential danger.

Just a PSA...
 
My 97 ate the FPDM, you could tell by the outside, it was cooked.
Same thing new pump, no fuel at the rail.

I thought I read somewhere other FPDM's will work, they just have a different mount.
 
ford nut said:
My 97 ate the FPDM, you could tell by the outside, it was cooked.
Same thing new pump, no fuel at the rail.

I thought I read somewhere other FPDM's will work, they just have a different mount.
Click to expand...

I remember that too. I think it was out of a mustang.
 
haven't checked crank sensor yet, and there wasn't any DTC's or check engine light on the night before, i was wondering when i turn the key to the "run" position (and due to this problem i am having it won't start) then the lights on the dash light up but some of the lights go out, after 10-20 seconds i believe, now will the check engine light continue to stay on or should it turn off, now remember my car wont start, i ask cause the check engine light is staying on, and if that is because it picked up a DTC then that could save me, (i mean us) some time. and i did not know that about the test light thank you for the heads up. and thank you DLF for the help that night, and does any one know if a different FPDM will work? cause it seems the mark VIII FPDM is the most expensive one.
 
Do you have a code reader? Have you used it to check for DTC's?

Did you get a digital multimeter yet?
 
no i don't have a code reader, i just go to auto zone and have them plug it in there, and i haven't got the multimeter, i've been busy, but i will try to remember to get one tomorrow
 
420ss said:
no i don't have a code reader, i just go to auto zone and have them plug it in there, and i haven't got the multimeter, i've been busy, but i will try to remember to get one tomorrow
Click to expand...

Well, beg, borrow, or steal a code reader.

Reading codes is pretty much the first thing that you should do.
 
 
nice thank you DLF and NoLimit95, and i hate it to my mark was my after work cruzer, now all i have to drive after work is the ol' ladies '10 hyundai 2.0t, it has a turbo but it isn't a mark VIII not by a long shot.:cool:
 
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