I am so done with this sh*t, I think time for new PCM

If I do I might crack the tank. The pump is pressed hard against the bottom due to the wrong filter.
 
My mustang did that.....then the car just shut down......bad battery caused by a bad alternator. Just another thing to check. I had the same loss of power issues.
 
The sock could be pinched, but its been just over a year without and issue. With that said it could have been pinched enough to strain the pump until it now died.

Bill assures me I am getting the correct filter this time.

I dont think its power related since I can not build enough pressure yet everything else is working fine. Even with low power if I just cycle the key (no start, just prime the pump) pressure should have built up enough but it instantly drops to zero.
 
Lol... so you have a known problem with your fuel pump and sock and you are wondering what is going on....
 
Not a known problem. It fit, it was just that the outer fitting of the sock was pressing against the bottom of the tank. It should not have affected fuel intake. I will know more when I take it all apart.
 
Anyone have a pic of the pump with screen for 96? I think 93 to 96 are the same. I have the new pump, want to make sure its the right screen. The screen sits flat on the pump bottom with the inlet shifted a little to one side. About 5 inches long and 2 inches wide.

Also does the 96 have a variable speed pump. Now that I have been driving it for a few days like this I notice its REALLY bad below 5mph and low rpm. But when I get moving, its fine unless I jump the pedal.
 
Ok..pump was technically not the issue. The host between the pump and the basket was ruptured very badly. Must have been a kink when I slid the pump up further to make the incorrect screen fit.

I have pics.

Anyway. I took the passenger side strap off and replaced the pump with the new one anyway. Correct screen too. No need to drop exhaust all all. PLENTY off room even with the rear end not jacked up very high. I did still some fuel since the tank was half full.

Car drives like a champ now. I will once again have to adjust the tune.

I replaced the section of fuel hose but made sure there were no kinks or sharp bends. I think I will be all good from now on out.
 
Thats the thing that ticks me a little, the one shipped with the kit I dont think was and the stuff I put in I am not sure about. I went to a few places asking for in-tank hose or some sorta poly stuff.

What is in there now is just 5/16 Goodyear fuel line hose. I think I will order some better stuff online.
 
I know what a FRP is suppose to do. But I drove it yesterday, 40 minutes both ways to another city, and this morning I realized I did not have it hooked up to the vac line. Car ran GREAT and I was really hammering it on the back roads.
 
Ya... Gates is the brand that keep coming up for submersible.

SAE J30R10 Submersible fuel hose Gates product #42195185, part # 27093, Napa parts #H209. Comes in 1 foot lengths and only in 5/16 ID.


SAE J30R10 Submersible fuel hose Gates product #42196184, part number #27097, Napa parts #H213. Comes in 1 foot lengths and 225 foot rolls and only 3/8 ID.
 
Glad you got it sorted out, I know everyone spent a fair amount of time thinking this one over.

and I know how you loathed going back into the tank, but it sounds like the initial loathing was worse than the actual job...huh.

funny how much easier it becomes to do these jobs "the second time".

having the fpr disconnected wasn't a bad thing, it just had you running at WOT fuel pressure all the time...other than the small vacuum leak caused by the disconnected line..

STICK a fork in this one.. she's done!

good job Unity
 
I capped of the line, no vac leak. In fact it seemed to run better with it off..... I will try some stuff later since I have to take the same route to Manitowoc again.

And ya, a lot easier the second time around and thinking it can be done without dropping the exhaust made things quicker.

Still have issue at full WOT though.... Just as before she cuts out a little bit.
 

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