Thanks Joe,
The answer I was looking for.
Useful information is what I try to give and its what I seek.
That being said, I purchased new UCA's for the rear.
Again, Thanks.
HORRIBLE SQUEAKING
- Thread starter Lincoln06V8
- Start date
Thanks Joe,
The answer I was looking for.
Useful information is what I try to give and its what I seek.
That being said, I purchased new UCA's for the rear.
Again, Thanks.
I get what info you were after, and think you made the right choice. What’s a good ball joint go for $30-40? Add the powerflex replacement for the uppers at $30-40 per and your over $100 while a brand new ford UCA costs ~$120.
To me, the time and possible damage pressing ball joints and bushings at the same cost as factory new is time and money poorly spent.
I did do my rear LCA bushings according to the Powerflex link posted and am very happy with the result....almost two years and no issues. Add the fact that I saved hundreds of $$ when compared with a new Ford LCA.
No doubt.
I failed last summer trying to replace a ball joint on a front lower on my 2006 Duramax. I ended up wasting hours heating and beating the snot out of that LCA and I finally said +*^# it! and bought brand new ones. But then again, those were heavy steel and the ball joints were beefy compared to the LS light and small UCA’s.
I am excited about the new bushings that are on the way and encouraged to hear the members here, who have gone that route, being pleased with them.
I failed last summer trying to replace a ball joint on a front lower on my 2006 Duramax. I ended up wasting hours heating and beating the snot out of that LCA and I finally said +*^# it! and bought brand new ones. But then again, those were heavy steel and the ball joints were beefy compared to the LS light and small UCA’s.
I am excited about the new bushings that are on the way and encouraged to hear the members here, who have gone that route, being pleased with them.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I agree that it's a risk pressing aluminum ...but on the other side of the coin ...if you live in the frozen tundra in the upper Midwest where the temps drop to -40 with wind chill ...I think this would be the way to go ...due to the fact every LS I've seen that has gone through many winters where not only the salt but the suspension dealing with hot/cold hot/cold hot/cold ...you get my drift ... has been hell on the bushings and I believe that the Powerflex will/would hold up far far longer than the original factory bushings...now if I lived in Cali, florida or all the other warm states I would go with the Factory replacement
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Archangel, you might want to send back those rear toe rods you purchased in the photo. Why, the next pot hole hole you run through will damage to this weakest joint which is the inner ball joint. You may have to pony up to the Ford part in the photo...
If you care to look, check out the outer section with the larger diameter at the length adjustment interface. That is a rubber insulator that can dampen the shock of the deep pots you may run through...
If you care to look, check out the outer section with the larger diameter at the length adjustment interface. That is a rubber insulator that can dampen the shock of the deep pots you may run through...
Well, this past Friday and Saturday I went to work on the rear end.
Wasn't too hard of a job, and I was able to take my time. Did one side at a time for each day. While down there taking stuff loose, my sway bar links were worn but not wasted so I went ahead and picked up some from the parts house.
Also note, I put the new bushings in the freezer and took them out one by one when ready to press them in. Not sure how much this helped since the new bushings go in about half way on their own before needing to press them in with tools.
Pretty straight forward, the two smaller LCA bushings, I was able to press out the old and press in the new.
The larger of the three bushings, since I did not have anything that size to use in my improvised press, I had to heat up the outside of the control arm to get the rubber to melt and detach from the metal insert and from there, I used a hacksaw to make a relief cut and a chisel and hammer to carefully pry out the the old inner sleeve. I was able to press the new larger one in.
Replaced both Rear UCA's, tie-rods and sway-bar end links. The sway-bar bushings to my surprise were in good shape.
Since I am the 2nd owner of this vehicle, don't know why I didn't catch this while doing my rear brakes a while back, I found that someone had wrapped the ball joint boots on both Rear UCA's with black electrical tape. Not my style.
Measured the center hub to top of the wheel well (15.5") before working while the vehicle was on the ground. Then after everything was replaced and snugged down, used the floor jack under the knuckle to raise it to 15.5" and then torqued the LCA, UCA, tie rod , lower shock bolts and sway bar end links.
Alignment was off of course, went to see my buddy Ray Ray, who has his own shop and got a 4 wheel alignment done.
All I can say is, WOW! what a difference in the ride. My car now glides almost effortlessly in a straight line and hugs the on/off ramps at 70mph.
The Powerflex bushings are worth it IMHO and if one has the tools, time, know how and place to work, it wasn't that difficult of a job.
A big thanks to those who posted about recommending and doing this upgrade/repair.
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Good Job!
Unfortunately, I got an aligbment done a month ago after hitting a curb before the bushing was squeaking, after I replace the bushing I will need to do another alignment.
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Sears and Firestone offer lifetime alignment which are about twice the cost of a single job. They helped me learn and fine tune the alignments progressively.
Unfortunately, I got an aligbment done a month ago after hitting a curb before the bushing was squeaking, after I replace the bushing I will need to do another alignment.
If you are just replacing the bushings, I don’t think you need to have it re-aligned. It’s the toe rod that gets out of whack and that gets adjusted to align the rear.
However, since the toe rod is attached the lower control arm, and has to be removed in order to get the lower control arm off, and then bolted back up...if it were me, at the very least, I would have the alignment checked after doing all that work. Only thing that it will hurt is the pocket book to have it checked and/or adjusted.
I hope my reply helps.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Well done! You are a Scholar and a gentleman! Thanks for the great write up! Enjoy the ride ...I already see you are!
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
Has anyone gone this route? I have a lower rear outer bushing that is shot. Looks like moog sells a replacement for just the outer that attaches to the knuckle. Anyone use the moog bushing? Also does anyone have detailed measurements for these bushings? I have a chart of a whole bunch of moog bushings and maybe could substitute them instead of replacing the whole control arm which is on the costly side. Not interested in the power flex bushings. Not cost effective enough to go through all the trouble of pressing them in and out imo.
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
I think maybe I got it wrong about the powerflex bushings. Are they priced individually or in pairs? They are shown in pairs but the description is confusing.
Just an update after installing the bushings and please note, I have no scientific evidence of what I’m about to claim.
Since the time of doing all this rear end work and after a tank and a half of fuel consumed, my MPG has increased from 17.5 mpg to 18.1 mpg and may even go a bit higher.
Before the rear end got squeaky, for a couple of months, the ride felt like I had a tire out of balance, felt it more in the rear passenger area of the car.
The squeak was also on that same side and after removing the rear passenger side suspension, that side being the worst, it was evident that there had to have been a lot of wheel play going down the road which I believe was causing drag/resistance and my theory/conclusion is now that the rear end is tight and straight, the drag/resistance has been greatly reduced; thus the slight increase in fuel economy, not to mention the pleasure of the ride quality.
I have been driving normally, which is spirited around town, as this car is my ride to work and back/grocery hauler.
Just my humble 2 cents worth.
Michael
Since the time of doing all this rear end work and after a tank and a half of fuel consumed, my MPG has increased from 17.5 mpg to 18.1 mpg and may even go a bit higher.
Before the rear end got squeaky, for a couple of months, the ride felt like I had a tire out of balance, felt it more in the rear passenger area of the car.
The squeak was also on that same side and after removing the rear passenger side suspension, that side being the worst, it was evident that there had to have been a lot of wheel play going down the road which I believe was causing drag/resistance and my theory/conclusion is now that the rear end is tight and straight, the drag/resistance has been greatly reduced; thus the slight increase in fuel economy, not to mention the pleasure of the ride quality.
I have been driving normally, which is spirited around town, as this car is my ride to work and back/grocery hauler.
Just my humble 2 cents worth.
Michael
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I have no doubt your fuel economy would/should improve with a better suspension...
Lincoln06V8
Active LVC Member
Was it very hard to do the lower control arms. @Archangel
I didn’t think so.
Having the proper tools surely makes the work less difficult.
The write up from the guy that did both the front and back, seeing his pictures and reading his walk thru, I believe was one of the main factors that spoke to me saying, “You can do this.”
Hope this answered your question.
If you aren’t too far from Raleigh, NC,
You can drop by and I can talk to you more about it.
Lincoln06V8
Active LVC Member
I live way up in good ol Minnesota.
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
This is the outer rear lower control arm bushing that attaches to the knuckle. Not what I expected since everyone says the original bushings are rubber. I've seen these described as fluid bushings. There are boots and grease inside as well as a ball type fitting and bushing. Does anyone know more about the original bushings? Missing in the picture is the pressed in cap which I turned off on my lathe.
I bought the Moog replacement bushing for this one and I have to say that I am quite disappointed in there sizing. The center section was longer than the original by about .025 and I had to grind it too get it to fit in the knuckle opening. Also the outside diameter was .006 thousands bigger than the original which could explain why people have trouble with the control arm splitting when they press in new bushings.
Man, that sucks.
For your question about original sizes,
I wish I could help. I tossed my old bushings a few days after I replaced them.
I hope you can make it all work and not have this turn into an expensive learning experience.
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
Actually I don't really have any money invested yet. Only about $30 for 2 of the Moog bushings. I do have some time invested because of the pressing in and out of the bushing but I am working on improving my method. I also have some a little time turning the Moog bushing down the .006 and shortening it so it fit but that part I actually enjoyed. I haven't used my lathe in years and I had a lot of fun doing it.
jerryg2112
Well-Known LVC Member
Update: Initially I had trouble finding the right adapters to press out the bushing and after some thin pipe mushroomed on me I decided to take a chance and order the Moog control arm for the 2000-2002 (I have a 2005). My reasoning being the replacement bushings are the same for all years and the Lemforder control arms are the same part for all years as well. Moog does make a different, more expensive arm for the 2005 as well and the other brands do too. Since it was only $95 I figured I would take a chance and if it didn't match just send it back. Of course I usually don't give up easily and went back to trying to press out the bushings. When I found adapters (sockets) that worked I went on to replace the bushing with the Moog bushing as mentioned earlier. By the time I tried to cancel the order I couldn't so I got the replacement control arm I order yesterday. As far as I could tell the new control arm is an exact match. I installed it today and drove on it with no problems. Ordered the other side too.
Cool beans man.
Sockets do come in handy, even when they are not turning a hex head.