HORRIBLE SQUEAKING

I just sprayed pb blaster all over the control arm bushings squeaking went away. But when it comes back I'll half to get the bushings replaced.
 
For now get a needle grease attachment and poke the rear control arm rear boots with 8-10 pumps of moly grease. Save 800 USD four new Ford control arms.
 
For now get a needle grease attachment and poke the rear control arm rear boots with 8-10 pumps of moly grease.

Boots? My rear control arms don't have grease boots and surely not enough room for 8-10 pumps of grease. If those arms are indeed worn, replace with new. Safety first, you know? Even if you can get a worn bushing not to squeak, the bushing is still worn and potentially dangerous. Not worth the risk.
 
For now get a needle grease attachment and poke the rear control arm rear boots with 8-10 pumps of moly grease. Save 800 USD four new Ford control arms.

Go look at your LS. There are no boots on/over the rear bushings. There's really nowhere to pump grease into. You can at best get some grease onto them.
 
Use a needle grease attachment. If you feel adventurous take the Energy Suspension tie rod polyurethane boot and fit them over the original boots for long term protection.

Screenshot_20200212-202745_Chrome.jpg
 
There are no boots!

s-l500.jpg


Those are mostly solid bushings that flex and twist as the arm rotates.
 
Two are spherical bushings and one is a semi solid rubber insulator. If you look real close when you replace the bushings you will notice spring clips holding the boot in the attachment bushing. The replacement spherical bushing sold on Ebay are not the same size from my experience.
 
Here's a neat tool that all you chassis squeakers need:

ChassisEAR Electronic Squeak and Rattle Finder
I like that, now if I only had some cash running around. I wouldnt need it for now, I found the squeaking bushing, the rubber around it is all chewed up. I daily drive my Ls, so the hope is to wait until we have some heat in the spring, pull out my summer beater, and fix the Ls bushing. And dang, the sqeak is blasted annoying, I feel like everyone around me is looking at me like a dope who doesnt give a care about his car.
 
If you want a full documented and tutorial on replacing your factory bushings with the Powerflex....go to google search ...and type in Power flex bushings Lincoln LS Lincolnvscadillac..Devilish has one of the best write ups and tutorials on replacing your bushings with the S-Type Powerflex bushings
 
If you want a full documented and tutorial on replacing your factory bushings with the Powerflex....go to google search ...and type in Power flex bushings Lincoln LS Lincolnvscadillac..Devilish has one of the best write ups and tutorials on replacing your bushings with the S-Type Powerflex bushings
Dang, nice write up. Thank you, and thanks to Devilish.
 
For a short term fix, fill the worn rubber volume in the bushing with high strength silicone till you can gather all the new parts
 
Since we are on the rear end of things, I'm gonna go the Power Flex route.
As far as the Rear Upper Control arm, anyone of you had luck replacing the ball joint on the original factory control arm?
 
It's all one unit

I know that...Power flex sells replacement bushings for the rear uppers to re-furbish them.
I'll go the Power flex bushing route for the rear uppers, only if the ball joint can be removed and replaced. What I'm not going to do is buy new rear uppers and pop out good rubber bushings....Why I'm asking.
 
You had indicated ball joints which are pressed in the structure


Umm, I think we are talking about the same thing but we are not resonating.

I'm gonna make this an easy question for you Steve.
Look at the picture and if you want, answer the question with a yes or no.

Can the ball joint on the rear upper control arms be removed and replaced with simple tools? The part is circled in red.
Thanks.
Control arm.jpg
 
That’s it Steve, I’m done playing yer silly ass games.
Ba bye
 
Yes, they are aluminum. It is possible to press ball joints in and out of the aluminum arms, if you really know what you are doing. That said, I recommend against trying it. You could warp the arm, or cause it to crack around the joint, later and unexpectedly.
 
I played it safe with four new FORD manufactured rear control arms for 800 USD and with the proper lubrication and boot protection I have approx. 200k miles and still like new or some need to hear "tight" for my 04 LS, no regrets.
.
 

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