Hey guys!

P

PaulPool89

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(EDITED more pics) Hey Guys!

I'm back driving my dad's 1998 Lincoln mark VIII LSC Collectors Edition!

Had a 2002 Nissan sentra 5speed that I got into a bumper tap. Well for the SUV is was, not even a scratch. I bent my radiator core support and jammed my hood shut. Not worth fixing it b/c I don't know welding.

Anyway's the heat stopped working. it still blows, but only cold even when set to 90. I will edit in the codes I got from ATC test when I run it after work. (I only just found out that diagnosis system even exist doing a forum search just now)

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/lincolntech/modrepair/blenddoorrepair.html

Does all those components really have to come off? I read somewhere a guy said he didn't have to drop the steering wheel.

http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/blend_door_reinforce.htm
Also that the new part can be reinforced as it shows in the guide. But im not really wrapping my head around how that works from the pictures im not understanding. Can anyone explain that better to me?

2nd in the spring there was some flash flooding and I was driving it thru a puddle that came up to touching the lugnuts on my tires, but not enough to get sucked in. This lady without thinking drives right thru the puddle heading in my direction, pushes a wall of water up over my hood, and floods it. Mechanic opened up the plugs, turned engine over. He said a lot of water came shooting out. But he air dried it, put it back together, and car still runs. However now it has a rough idle. Like someone keeps tapping the gas peddle rhythmically. How do I diagnose what is causing it?

Still have trans issue but that's for another time. (anyone selling a new trans for my model?)

Lastly I need to replace both from wheel bearings. I read that the spindle might be damaged too. Where is there a guide or how-to replace the spindles?

My new wife (got married Feb 15th) deff enjoys riding in this more than my sentra. But I am disappointed with the traction control. Fishtails something terrible in the snow we just had.

Anyone here in South Jersey?

Rims front after, rear before
dirtywheel.jpg

Click For full size
cleanwheel.jpg

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Headlights after I did drivers side, and then both done. Passanger came out nicer. They have moisture inside them.
frontdirty.jpg

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frontclean.jpg

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There is a bit of rust at the bottom of the driver's side.


I felt brilliant thinking of just putting my finger in the shot lol


Front seats are actually in pretty good condition. Drivers seat left side feels like its missing some foam. Waiting on collectors edition mats to get here.
th_327918428_interior_122_461lo.jpg


Over 200k and looking pretty good for it.


Back seat condition is perfect.


The walnut on the steering wheel is worn to the wood in a few spots. Not sure how to fix that. But otherwise everything works and looks nice.


#0792
th_327924457_collectorsplate_122_409lo.jpg
 
Thank you for that! That was very helpful!

I get the front hubs at one store. I have to drive a few miles to another one, and bought two new nuts as well. As I am pulling into the store, I hear a noise and see smoke. Pop the hood to find my belt is half broken and had slid off the tensioner arm and is rubbing against my block. So I get a new belt. takes me a few minutes to figure out how it goes, its been a while since I replaced one. Fire it up for a second and turn it back off, when I check I find it doing the same thing! What?? Upon inspection I saw the tensioner arm bearing was broken. Thankfully the parts store let me borrow their tools to replace it and I was able to get it done before it was too dark.
20140317_193808.jpg

But my day's not over. Need air in my front tire, wawa has free air. Drive to another town relatively on the way home, where they have a nice digital air pump. Its broken:Bang Have to drive two more towns down to the next super wawa.
I knew it would be one of those days when I showed up to work at 7:30, to find out we have a 2 hour delay...

However, today is another day right? Right!

I cannot get the ATC test to work. I tried it with the engine running, and with key just turned to acc on. with climate control off, I press OFF and FLR, then hold Automatic within 2 seconds. I tried holding it for 15 seconds and nothing happens after 40 seconds no flashing or anything. What am I doing wrong?
 
Whoever did that "how-to" on LOD should be enshrined in the MarkVIII Hall of Fame. That was on par with instructional videos shown at service conferences. Outstanding work.
 
Indeed! they did a through job documenting it.

The check engine light was only for the secondary smog emission pump thing, which I already know. The ETAC came up clean. So I still have no clue as to whats causing the rough idle.

New hubs are on and it rolls nice and smooth.

I had a guy that worked for Ford for over 40 years take a quick right with me. He said I have high pressure in all my gears. He said that may be why it bucks so hard especially putting it into reverse, but also drive. He said it is not slipping and shifting is tight. But compared to my wife's accord, it feels like it hits hard when upshifting and downshifting, especially when coming off a WOT. He said it could maybe be a trans mount, but he doubts it, could have a mod chip installed, could be a solenoid. He's going to do some research and get back to me.

Anyone care to take a guess?
 
it could have a tune on the computer pushing up the line pressures. there are no external signs of that. so it would be hard to tell.
another possibility is a shift kit, or a jmod. they can both quicken and tighten up the shifts.

of course, the EPC solenoid could also be stuck in full pressure mode.

ford nut said:
broken accumulator spring
Click to expand...

how would that affect reverse though?
 
PaulPool89 said:
2nd in the spring there was some flash flooding and I was driving it thru a puddle that came up to touching the lugnuts on my tires, but not enough to get sucked in. This lady without thinking drives right thru the puddle heading in my direction, pushes a wall of water up over my hood, and floods it. Mechanic opened up the plugs, turned engine over. He said a lot of water came shooting out. But he air dried it, put it back together, and car still runs. However now it has a rough idle. Like someone keeps tapping the gas peddle rhythmically. How do I diagnose what is causing it?
Click to expand...

A miss would be my guess, but again its just a guess.
The car isn't in my driveway.
 
The ford trans guy thinks chris may be right and the EPC solenoid is stuck in full pressure.

A while back I found a official release stating that these trans have a common issue with the 1 and 3 solenoid, something like that about the solenoids but I could be wrong. I'm googling around to find it. Does anyone have a link to it?
 
Bump update

They said it is the rear transmission mount. No one knows what it is at the parts store. One very nice member here PMed me this http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...f-_-cj-_-3641530-_-10711125&SID=122hywe9uvy1r

Which I ordered. But when they went to try to install it they said it's the wrong one and it's too small. And the part they need is similar to it.

Does anyone know what is the correct part for the rear trans mount?
 
Thanks! I called in the order should be here in 3 days.

I've been having this very annoying issues with pumping gas. I cannot leave the nozzle pumping. It keeps shutting off. Even if I try holding it by hand I keep having to squeeze it to get it going every second. I don't know why or what's causing it. Has anyone heard of this before?
 
olddavid said:
Whoever did that "how-to" on LOD should be enshrined in the MarkVIII Hall of Fame. That was on par with instructional videos shown at service conferences. Outstanding work.
Click to expand...

Haha. That was Jesse Mueller and the wonderful news for me is that he lives two hours away. He did my IMRC deletes and installed my 3.73s with trac-loc. :D
 
I have this issues every time I pump gas, that's why I think something is wrong.
At some gas stations the frustrated attendant is able to wiggle or turn the nozzle upside down and it'll stay on, but most of the time I just get out and do it myself. (yeah I'm a jersey guy)
 
So I finally got the transmission mount replaced.

It did not improve the transmission slamming into gear when I put it into Reverse and Drive. Back to square 1.
 
Mystery kinda solved. They took a look in the trans and said someone paid good money to put a shift kit in there. That also explains the downshifting.

But why would that cause the slamming when putting it into reverse and drive?

Is there any way to tone that down just for that? I can live with the up and downshifts on the highway
 
Hot*Mk8 said:
Haha. That was Jesse Mueller and the wonderful news for me is that he lives two hours away. He did my IMRC deletes and installed my 3.73s with trac-loc. :D
Click to expand...

Too bad he stopped posting, very helpful and detailed posts.
 
olddavid said:
Whoever did that "how-to" on LOD should be enshrined in the MarkVIII Hall of Fame. That was on par with instructional videos shown at service conferences. Outstanding work.
Click to expand...

Hot*Mk8 said:
Haha. That was Jesse Mueller and the wonderful news for me is that he lives two hours away. He did my IMRC deletes and installed my 3.73s with trac-loc. :D
Click to expand...

Someone tell Jesse we'd like to vote him into the Mark VIII hall of fame! :)
 
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