Here is the pic of my 80MM MASS AIRFLOW, keep on or take off?

ok, the current codes read : "BANK 1 LEAN" and "BANK 2 LEAN" which mich sound like a vacuum leak somewhere, ill have more info later on
 
I agree, it does sounds like a vacuum leak or a completely screwed up MAF sensor.
The MAF tells the PCM how much air is going into the motor.
When dirt accumulates on the sensor it starts "mis reporting".

MAF sensors are about 75 dollarsish.

The rubber gasket between the intake tube and the throttle body is a common source of a vacuum leak and the bolt that holds the intake tube onto the throttle body is also a source of vacuum leak.

I'd find some flammable ether starting fluid and start spraying around on the intake until you find a place that makes the engine RPMS go up.. or down when you spray it.
THAT will be the source of your leak.
 
XLRVIII said:
I agree, it does sounds like a vacuum leak or a completely screwed up MAF sensor.
The MAF tells the PCM how much air is going into the motor.
When dirt accumulates on the sensor it starts "mis reporting".

MAF sensors are about 75 dollarsish.

The rubber gasket between the intake tube and the throttle body is a common source of a vacuum leak and the bolt that holds the intake tube onto the throttle body is also a source of vacuum leak.

I'd find some flammable ether starting fluid and start spraying around on the intake until you find a place that makes the engine RPMS go up.. or down when you spray it.
THAT will be the source of your leak.
Click to expand...

The MAF was replaced yesterday, $70 and its funny that you say about the starting fluid b/c me and buddy did that today and no sign of IDLE or RPM difference. Point out those gasket between the intake tube and TB
 
looking back thru your pics.. you have a second gen.
The intake tube leak I was referring to is a first gen issue
Sorry for the confusion.

NOW.. the second gens commonly have an intake manifold leak between the upper and lower intake.

ALSO.. another place to look is..
Did/do any of your plugs have oil on the them when you remove them
If there is oil on the body of the plug above the threads, then you need to change the Valve cover gaskets, including the Orings around the plugs.

When those Orings leak they are also a source of vacuum leak via the PCV valve.. a very easy to overlook issue.

Try pulling the coil covers off and spraying the starting fluid in there.
that just MIGHT be the root of your problem.
With the coil covers ON it might not leak enough to be noticable.
 
ill change the plugs today, I know the guy just changed the valve cover gaskets not to long ago. Going back to the chip, when it was chipped, I got the IMVR code and now that I took the chip off, I have the LEAN codes, any ideas from that. You're saying for me to spray starting fluid in the coil boot?
 
Just because someone "else" did something to the car does not RULE IT OUT as a problem area.

In fact.. it's just the opposite.
Since the area that was previously worked on could have a contributing factor in your issue.

no dont spray in the coil boots.

Take the coil covers OFF
Spray in the AREA of the coils, keeping in mind your dealing with flammable stuff, dont lean your head over the area while your spraying.

If ANY of the spark plugs have oil ABOVE the treads... you have Valve cover gasket Oring leaks. Those WILL cause vacuum leak issues with unmetered air entering the motor via the PCV valve.
 
there is no IMVR code that I'm aware of
What does IMVR stand for?

Are you talking about IMRC code?

if you have stuck IMRC plates it MIGHT cause the car to bog at low RPM's.
that is..IF they are stuck OPEN.
A stuck closed IMRC wont cause a bog.
 
yea, I meant the IMRC, heres a pic of the fuel filter, looks to be all fine. Im going to replace the plugs as soon as im done with the front wheel bearing:

PICT0001-3.gif

PICT0002-3.gif
 
Oh no, you caught me red handed on that one. I look back at it and think "where in the hell did I see a rotor" but mainly I was looking back and forth at the Northern rust. I'm assuming this is from salt or w/e is used up there on the streets. I haven't seen snow where I live on the ground in years, especially snow in the street. I think since 95 or 96 when we got a few inches that lasted for maybe 2 days. They don't put salt out down here, they just shut the entire city down and everyone gets to stay out of work. :)
 
so I changed the PCV valve and brand new plugs, same still the same issue, anymore ideas, it going back to the dealer for my buddy to look at again on Monday. Any ideas until then?
 
So far you have installed

1. Stock MAF and housing back on but with no gasket to seal off the main housing or did you make one to seal it off?
2. Is that MAF new or one that has been cleaned up by someone other than you? Some people that clean a MAF don't understand to use a non residue cleaner. Maybe you can't see it but something could be on it causing it to misread.
3. Changed plugs. Did you see any oil around them?
4. Still running on a CLEANED IAC? If I had access to mine like you have, I would have changed that thing long ago, not just cleaned it.
5. You still haven't replaced the TPS yet?

You are only getting slight bogging issues when the car is warmed up and stop and go, but none after an all night sit. When this happens while it's warm, is it bogging only after being started or all the time after warmed up?
 
nolimit94VIII said:
So far you have installed

1. Stock MAF and housing back on but with no gasket to seal off the main housing or did you make one to seal it off?
2. Is that MAF new or one that has been cleaned up by someone other than you? Some people that clean a MAF don't understand to use a non residue cleaner. Maybe you can't see it but something could be on it causing it to misread.
3. Changed plugs. Did you see any oil around them?
4. Still running on a CLEANED IAC? If I had access to mine like you have, I would have changed that thing long ago, not just cleaned it.
5. You still haven't replaced the TPS yet?

You are only getting slight bogging issues when the car is warmed up and stop and go, but none after an all night sit. When this happens while it's warm, is it bogging only after being started or all the time after warmed up?
Click to expand...

1. Stock airbox, eveything is back to stock (no I didnt make that squre foam gasket yet)
2.BRAND NEW MAF, not cleaned (ive noticed that the car doesnt die anymore when i make a full turn)
3.Brand new plugs, there was oil around the thread but the plug itself was dry , all 8 plugs were dry where the spark would be
4.IAC is not new, just cleaned
5. TPS has not been replaced

I am getting bogging issues whenever I punch it, but the shake and stuttering is only after I turn the car on within a short period of time of when it was running, the shake and stutter does NOT appear when the car sits for a while and i turn the car on.
 
I would make that gasket and you can get the stuff cheap. Use two sided foam tape if you have to and that way when you snap the funnel to the housing, it should have a good tight fit.

New TPS would be my next step and then see what you got after that but that's just me.
 
You mentioned that the car would stall at full turn. I would think thats an IAC issue. Get the air box sealed up right.
 
vikingdiesel said:
1. No, i just cleaned the IAC. Idle is fine though
2. Fuel filter is in
3. Did not check the fuel line pressue nor do I know how
4. No, is TPS throttle position sensor?
5. no, dont know how

Its not a trans feel, its somthing from the engine. When i had the chip, the IMVR code was on, when I removed it, the throttle response what much more responsive and smoother and now im running stock everything but the LEAN code MAF is what im getting which i just replaced all that and still the code. Here are the exact current symptoms:

I start the car in the morning, car runs and idles strong. I take off slowly, everything is fine. Im at a red light and if I go to punch it, it will just bog as if the traction control kicked it not allowing me to go anywhere (TC is off btw) so if I punch it, it will just bog once or twice and then brake loose. Now, I go to the store and park the car for say 20min, I come back out and turn the car on. I put it in gear and car shakes and stutters as it almost feels like its going to die, as im pressing the gas, the car just stutters and chokes and after about 1min it will clear up and go back to normal.

Whenever i leave the car sitting longer, it acts different. If I leave it sitting for a few hours, its fine after i restart it, if I re start it say a few times within an hr, it will just shake and stutter and clear out within 1 min.

What coud this possibly be.
Click to expand...


I'm wondering if this is all from the IMRC's being clogged up or a actuator not opeing due to vacumm loss? just a thought.. I know I had hessitation when the the drivers side was closed due to a failure on the IMRC.. also caused a lean code on the drivers bank.
 
im going to dealer and finding out today, when the chip was in, the IMRC code came on, now that the chip is off, the LEAN code is coming on
 
ok, so the guy did all sorts of tests and the IMRC is working fine, the problem is a vacuum leak coming from the drivers side intake manifold and it seems that i need a new intake manifold gasket, there is (2) upper ones and (1) lower one, I guess the lower one is the under the the IMRC. Could this very well be my problem
 
It could make the engine run lean, with extra air going in unmonitered. Keep fixing what you find, eventually in will all be fixed.
 
so I guess thats my issue then, I can test myself while the car is idling by spraying carb or throttle body cleaner in the vacuum leak(the intake manifold gasket) and the idle should change, correct? Also, any DIY on this or is this fairly an easy job? Seems easy
 
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