vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
Seems like people are saying to take off on some previous threads but just to make sure, here is a pic b/c the sensor itself it stock, so a larger diameter could still be make my boging issues?
Here is the pic of my 80MM MASS AIRFLOW, keep on or take off?
- Thread starter vikingdiesel
- Start date
94m5
Dmaup's Daddy
So you have a STOCK sensor in a NON stock tube? ummmm, Yea I think that could probably be your issue.
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
how should of it been? New sensor as well?
that is how the C&L bogus meter works
you put your stock sensor INSIDE a larger housing.
which in turn LIES to the PCM and doesnt tell the PCM there is MORE AIR entering the engine, which leans out the fuel mixture and SOMETIMES makes more power.
Problem lies when someone puts a chip on there that also "leans out" the fuel table, coupled with the LYING meter you wind up in DANGEROUS territory.
I used to have that very meter and filter arrangment on my car.
After a few years of "going slow" I decided to put the intake tract back to stock and the car INSTANTLY picked up the .3 in ET it was missing for YEARS
Just say NO to C&L air meters on mark 8's.
The stock meter, intake tube and throttle body are perfectly matched for the engines output level.
My car went faster with a stock air intake and a paper filter than it did with ALL the larger intake BS...and the economy is much better as well, since the PCM is actually getting accurate data from the MAF sensor, rather than being LIED TO.
look in that picture and notice that the back of the radiator is going to allow HOT air to enter into the maf..
THAT IS BAD....
I know cone filters are "cool", but in this application they hurt performance rather than help, like they do on other applications
THAT IS BAD....
I know cone filters are "cool", but in this application they hurt performance rather than help, like they do on other applications
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
so seeing that setup now, do you feel this is my bogging issue?
it might not be the CAUSE but... a screwed up AF ratio could be.
your only choice is to put it back to stock and YOU TELL US if it was the cause.
Trust in what I said above though, while this may not be the CAUSE of your bog.. it's still very very bad to LIE to your PCM.
depending on the mileage on your car, you may have a weak fuel pump.
if it's over 75K and less than 150K that is "the window" when fuel pumps croak.
If your fuel pump is weak the car MIGHT run like a scalded ape, but.. it's doing it because it's dangerously LEAN.
LEAN is MEAN all the way until "something melts".
your only choice is to put it back to stock and YOU TELL US if it was the cause.
Trust in what I said above though, while this may not be the CAUSE of your bog.. it's still very very bad to LIE to your PCM.
depending on the mileage on your car, you may have a weak fuel pump.
if it's over 75K and less than 150K that is "the window" when fuel pumps croak.
If your fuel pump is weak the car MIGHT run like a scalded ape, but.. it's doing it because it's dangerously LEAN.
LEAN is MEAN all the way until "something melts".
are there some snagged wires exposed on that filter that will cut your hand if you rub them AND an abraded area where the filter was contacting the inlet tube on the fender?
If so.. you might have some of my 360K mile JUNK from my old car on your car...
If so.. you might have some of my 360K mile JUNK from my old car on your car...
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
car came from Minnesota, back to the pump issue, car just hit 200k miles on it, I picked it up for pretty cheap. Its a 98 Black LSC 2 owner with the last owner owning it for 6 years. Is the fuel pump located in a hard to reach area?
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
no, those wires are the rewired pass. headlight into regular halogen which I am going to replace. The drivers is still HID but the pass. was rigged for halogen which I already got new headlights and so its goin back to HID
I was talking about the wire mesh that is on the outside of that filter
is the mesh damaged in one area, and has a couple of snags sticking out.
Becareful if it IS.. those things will LACERATE you!
haha
it does look shockingly familar, I sold it to a guy on mark8.org a couple of years ago for 200.00
is the mesh damaged in one area, and has a couple of snags sticking out.
Becareful if it IS.. those things will LACERATE you!
haha
it does look shockingly familar, I sold it to a guy on mark8.org a couple of years ago for 200.00
Frogman
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Easy to get to. Right behind driver's side front tire.
Jesus dude!
Learn to search a little, will you?
The damned fuel pump has been covered so many times, it's not even funny!
I'm shocked XLR has been spoonfeeding you for this long!
Jesus dude!
Learn to search a little, will you?
The damned fuel pump has been covered so many times, it's not even funny!
I'm shocked XLR has been spoonfeeding you for this long!
k9t8m
Rollin' Twankies
Is the CE light on? Lose the hot air intake!!!!
nah it's in a very accessible location
You take the pump access panel off the top of the tank and the assembly just slides out..it's fairly simple.
the only issue is.. you have to remove the tank to gain access TO the access panel ontop of the tank
4 bolts, 3-4 hose clamps and one electrical connection and the tank will fall out on the ground after you've removed the rear portion of the exhaust which is also stupid easy to get out because the tailpipes dont go OVER the rear axle like on other cars.
well I think he's asking about the pump not the filter.
But you are right..
his daily allotment of spoonfeeding has been exceeded by a large margin
Frogman
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I've never seen a mark with the filter behind the DRIVER's front tire. 
I've never seen a mark with the filter behind the DRIVER's front tire.
me either, I think we need to send you out for a drug test..
have you been digging in my stash again?
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
anyone have a pic of stock setup and where the mass airflow sensor plugs into, I have the stock airbox but have no clue where to plug in the mass air flow, i feel like im missing a part
Frogman
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That cheap arsed Chinese weed you got? Cracka', please!
Please dont tell me you think I support foreign drug trades?
OH HELL NO.
The weed I smoke is NOT imported, it does not cross a state line nor even a COUNTY line.
100% american, locally grown by NON ILLEGAL ALEINS
HAHA
with that said, it is dutch genetics.. but 100% american made
there are 3, if I remember correctly parts to the stock air box
the two outer halves that bolt together and an internal peice that leads into the maf sensor it's like a funnel.. the funnel thing is what holds the maf housing IN the air box
The plug/wire exits thru the hole in the bottom of the air box that is sealed with a grommet that SHOULD still be on your maf wires.
That inner funnel AND the grommet on the wire loom MUST be present..otherwize your pissing against the wind.
the funnel thing is what smooths the airflow thru the meter and the grommet on the bottom keeps "un metered air" from entering the engine
Take some pics of what you have..and we'll try to get your humpty dumpty put back together again
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
ok, I got the funnel and it seems like i got it all
the stock air flow sensor bolts into the stock air meter housing
it's held in with those tamper proof bits you see
The black thing held in by two screws IS the sensor
The big aluminum thing is just the "housing".
you need to lay all your parts out on a table and take some pics
^^
it's held in with those tamper proof bits you see
The black thing held in by two screws IS the sensor
The big aluminum thing is just the "housing".
you need to lay all your parts out on a table and take some pics
^^
vikingdiesel
Well-Known LVC Member
Here are the pics, in the last (2) pics, which is the correct way? The maf should plug should be inside, correct?
