help please, really fustrated..

LINKAGE03LS

LINKAGE03LS

Active LVC Member
Joined
May 30, 2017
Messages
52
Reaction score
2
Location
long island ny
im stumped now..my black ls is about 1,200 mi and a month new to me. i got it running fine but suspected a lil stumble or slight bog here an there when warmed up no codes. so after a 600 mile trip last week i decided to throw in a set of denso inderium plugs, to my suprize the car ran worse missing and trowing random miss fire on 5n6 cyl code.. i parked it after a test up the block and got 8 fomco coils in the bag from rock auto put them in and all was well for about 30 miles then it started to act the same again.. .it also was trowing p0103 i believe the high air flow. checked all connection after MAF and swapped out MAF with a spare i had to double check. still having the miss fire 5n6 i swapped around the coils and plugs and im still getting the same codes on 5n6..i am so disapointed..
 
What are the exact OBDII codes that you are getting for #5 and #6 (and any other codes)?
Did you verify or set the gap of each plug to 1.0mm ?
Do all coil connector click in and lock? Same question for the fuel injector connectors.

I believe that P0103 refers to the voltage on "A" circuit being higher than allowed, not necessarily to high air flow rate. I would check the related wiring harness(es).
How does it run with the MAF disconnected?
 
thanks joe, i may have cried for help to soon..went back to 5 an 6 used my older plugs in great cond. checked gap to 39. and switched out coil #6 with an older coil and all good now .. im thinking maybe i got a bad coil.. it runs great so i will leave it as is and put some miles on it.. pray for me brother!..
 
so 5mi and its doing the same thing..im using just an obd and fordsys to read codes.. i will try swapping out some more stuff at this point.. all connectors and everything looks fine. this is crazy..
 
Take a deep breath ... start from scratch. Get everything out. keep everything clean. Try again.

I'd have gone with NGK Iridium plugs instead. Nonetheless, check for water or oil in wells.
Put everything back in, gently as you go, swap positions on them coils, triple check that all coil connectors click in firmly.

Sometimes you gotta sleep on it, works better next day. Faulty coils n plugs is not impossible. Also perhaps jiggle the harness around, look for damage, opens or shorts.

Also note it wouldn't be the first time Rock Auto stuffed returns or other brands in different boxes and ships it not giving a crap. Ensure Coils are indeed new and OEM.

Keep moving the coils around, see if you can find one that wants to continue to give you a hard time no matter the location you put it in.

Also have a good look at the wiring to the fuel injector on said troubled cylinder.

.
 
thanks rigs
the coils came in sealed motorsport bags. and yes in the last month between both car i must have about 8hrs total screwing around with coils, plugs n looking at wires.. i even did VCGs on white car.. this one is dry.. today i will try to pinpoint it. like i said in other post after about an hr or so of moving stuff around yesterday and using some of the old stuff i got it running rite, tested it up block.. then i went i to get cleaned up a bit..(happy as could be) started up and crapped out again..i got to have about 15 good coils at this point and the other plugs i pulled were pretty fresh they were ford indurems.. my question is can it be misfireing on another cyl but obd just saying 5n6?.. i dont have my forscan up n ruinning yet but i have obd and fordsys. on tablet and they both say the same. the last codes last nite were c0303 c0704 p0316 0300 0305 0306 0130.. i did pull MAF and car died, also pulled coil when running and grounded spare plug to see it spark..thanks to all once again
 
I meant for you to unplug the MAF with the engine off, then start it and run. That's a very different test than what you did. If you do this, then you force the PCM to use default fuel amounts and if the misfires are due to lean mixture, they should go away.

C0303 - Never heard of it.
C0704 - Never heard of it.
P0130 - implies there could be a wiring fault
The P030x codes are true misfire codes (unlike the P035x codes). This does mean that they could be identifying the wrong cylinder. (The P035x primary circuit codes should always have the correct cylinder.)

It's possible that you have a bad PCM.
 
update...started car this morn and it ran like a raped ape for about 2mi then back to same stumble and codes..
this is what i did..
started at # 1 and switched coil to spare then back again if still stumbling at idle when warm.
got to the point where it was only throwing # 5 and p0130
swapped out coil and plug on #5 with room temperature parts and it ran raped again for less than 1mile than p0130 code..
keep in mind i owned car about 1 mth.. put about 1000 mi on it including a 600 mi trip..
the car would have crisp throttle response when cold then become a little muddy on and off when warm with no codes or engine light on until i changed plugs then coils etc..no vac.leaks detected... norrowed down to #5 cyl when warm..
i will go fuss with #5 somore. anyone have any thoughts?...joe, rigs
 
Definitely something temperature related specific caused by #5

Wiring or PCM faulty as Joe suggests.

Convinced you've done everything possible regarding coils and plugs at this point.

P0130 - Bank 1, sensor 1 O2S is definitely a major concern. It indicates that the PCM is not detecting proper activity from the sensor. While misfiring, it's dumping raw fuel into the catalytic converter. When more oxygen is present in exhaust, as a lean condition the voltage signal output from the O2 sensor is lower. When less oxygen goes in the exhaust as a rich condition, the voltage signal output is higher. PCM utilizes this data to help calculate fuel delivery strategy and ignition timing.

Joe is asking you the results of the MAF test for a reason.

Myself, I'd put on my superman glasses and have a real close look at the pins in the connector and harness on 5.
 
you guys are awsome.. later today i will look at the #5 plug in depth and start with maf unplugged...
thanks again!
 
Ah pardon me ...

Joe is the only awesome one here.
In other countries you'd be required to bow down before him.

Remember that Chinese lady hey Joe?
She just wouldn't stop.

LOL ...
 
One more, far fetched, thought...
Check the intake for leaks at the gaskets for #5 and #6. This would be both the gasket between the intake and the head, and the internal gaskets between the plastic and metal parts of the intake.

Okay, I lied. One more thing. Are you clearing codes each time? If so, is it possible that it runs better each time after clearing the codes (also resets adaptations to defaults) until the PCM relearns some of its adaptations?
 
Oh yeah member Drizzle went through that episode of pulling all his hairs out swapping coils and plugs, checking wiring and it ended up being leaking intake gaskets right at middle coil area. He plugged that with all new gaskets and solved his misfires.

Good call. Good memory.
 
ok i bow down to joe first, but u also rigs for being consistant in response...so i will get a chance tomorrow to look a bit more and see what the cold start does again... how long should i run with MAF unplugged..also what should i do next?.. can i be certain nothing else needs to be checked B4 doing the pcm..i think i remember the company was SIA or something i also saw them on ebay
 
i am clearing codes not sure for reset adaptations meaning..should i pull neg termal and drain to pos?.. i also went around with propane and did nt pick up any rpms. i will use carb spray around 5n6 later..can i high oil level bother anything it looks like a quart high it came that way fresh for some reason..i do have a change ready..
 
No, I am saying that clearing codes also clears the adaptations, so you are clearing adaptations. This may or may not be why it runs well for a few minutes each time.

Run long enough with the MAF disconnected to see if it is going to start missing again or not.
 
thanks joe..ok so i drove about 1/8 mi with unplugged MAF and it started to die.it threw etc failsafe..first time i saw F.S. go on ever...turned off plugged in MAF and F.S. went away..car stumbles a lil at idle no power feels like its running on 6cyl... B4 i started testing it today i pulled off neg. and drained to pos. did about 3test tries down the block today and no codes being set....also sprayed gum cutter 2+2 all over intake to head seal areas with no change...is it safe to say i should send ecu to SIA..$135 plus ship? on ebay...i also moved a couple of coils around for chits n giggles..its a good thing my white car came with 2 new in the box magna hi flow cats, they will be going in after this is addressed!
 
I should have warned you that no MAF is one of the things that triggers ETC Failsafe. That was expected and would only have reduced max power available.

On the PCM, that is your call. There are tests that can be done to rule out the wiring, and you could do compression and leak-down tests on those cylinders to make sure it isn't a mechanical problem. You could describe your symptoms to SIA and see if the technician there feels like it is likely to be a PCM problem.
 
Another pure guess job, possible head gasket leak (not to atmosphere so spraying the area does nothing). Cylinder to cylinder leak. May coincide with 5 and 6 being next to each other. May also coincide why it works good cold, then once things heat up and expand, it starts going to crap.
 
the car has 92k on it and has been dealer maintained, driven by an old lady. i bough it last month and put over 1000mi on it. it just had an intermitten slight bog under parshall excelleration sometimes... after i put the plugs in it started running like crap trowing codes, new coils and swapped coils n plugs and it does the same...what should i check next?.. any ideas.. can a high tec scan tool pin issue..BTW, im pretty inclined with most tasks
 
oh, and to scratch head even harder, the other day when i was swapping stuff around it was finally just comming up #5 so with the motor still at operating temp i thew in an older plug and old coil (room temp) .(.dont know if it makes a difference or not) and the car ripped like it should for about an 1/8 of mile, than back to crap...it hasent trowen a code since i unpluged batt. and MAF..
 
LINKAGE03LS said:
...so with the motor still at operating temp i thew in an older plug ...
Click to expand...

Not related to your problems (now), but I would never tighten a plug into a hot aluminum head. It may be fun to get out later (without damaging the head). If you have trouble getting one out, it is okay to warm up the engine and try again, but it seems like a very bad idea to put plug in a hot (expanded) aluminum engine, since it may be too tight when the engine cools back down.
 
thanks joe,, since they have been coming in and out ive carefully been snuggin them in.. i dont crank down hard on them anyway.. i dont understand why it wont trow a code now.. i was thinking of trowing a set of cheap plugs next to see if it makes a difference..i have 2 new sets now and a good set that came out..can a plug work intermittenly ?.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 282 (members: 0, guests: 282)
Back
Top