Help No A/c

dertyclown

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HELP !!!!!!!!!!!
ok its full, and still no cold or even cool air..
the snap on scan tool sead it has a bad AC conpresser relay. so i went to advanced auto and talked with a guy who has a mark VIII 95 i think??? any way so there is nothing in the CAR BOOK or the comp about any a/c relay. has anyone ran it to this befor and how do i fix it?????
thanks for your help!
 
This might sound funny, but does the heat work at all, or does the blower motor under the dash come on, but just no cold air?
 
Mine does the same thing. The heat works fine, but when I turn on the AC only warm air comes out. It sucks now because the heat and humidity and really getting bad.
 
This is something I learn from another form, this is what you do, start up your engine turn on your A/C put it to low cold air or the coldest setting then turn off your engine for about 5 sec and turn it back on, this might work I never tried it, no need for me to try it because my A/C is working so I couldn't tell you if it worked or not.
 
Are you sure it's full? Anything below 50 psi on the low pressure side (I think), and the pressure switch will kick the the compressor off. Did you fill the system or have someone else do it?


Also, pop the hood, and look down at the A/C Compressor, is the electrical connector still firmly attached? If not, that could be part of the problem. I have had that happen to me a time or two.



I'd like to help more, but I need more info about the pressure levels in the system. Mike
 
ya the conector was no tight like 5 times and it was way in the red like 150psi I think but it is a sh!ty gauge.

hey rope thanks, but that didn't do it
 
it is a 1997 lincoln (no sh!t) Mark VIII lsc
could it be a cloge in the line or a sencer. or maby someone konws what an ac compreser is???????
 
dertyclown said:
. or maby someone konws what an ac compreser is???????
HUH??????????????????? WTF??

was that a joke?

if not ,then an a/c compressor is that cylindrical shaped item attached to the engine that is run by the serpentine belt ,about the size of 2 alternators .
It is what runs the whole a/c system.....????......

see pic

mike

7d_2.jpg
 
suprised no one has told you that its the blend door! because that's most likely what it is, goes out on most Gen2's. The door switches between the hot and cold and after time cracks and gets stuck in one position
 
My AC runs thru the vents then cycles up to the defrost when I step on the gas, cycles the defrost for about 3-4 seconds, then goes back down to the vents and cycles like this repeatedly. '98 2nd Gen that needs a new blend door but something tells me this is more coolant level related. Any advise is good advise. Thanks.
 
MonsterMark said:
My AC runs thru the vents then cycles up to the defrost when I step on the gas, cycles the defrost for about 3-4 seconds, then goes back down to the vents and cycles like this repeatedly.

Cool option :N

The only reason I said anything about the blend door is because that is normally what goes wrong with them, especially around the time when you haven't used it in a while and are going from one season to the next (switching from hot to cold).

you could always try the diagnostic on the climate control

"On-Board Diagnostic Test"

"NOTE:
The in-vehicle temperature should be greater than 50°F (10°C) for all DTCs shown to be valid."

"The control assembly will detect electrical concerns occurring during the On-Board Diagnostic."

"Ensure that the engine is warm, at least 120°F coolant temperature."

"To display the DTCs, initiate the On-Board Diagnostic by pushing OFF and FLOOR simultaneously and then AUTOMATIC within two seconds. The test may run as long as 20 seconds, during which time the display will be blank. If the display is blank for more than 20 seconds, go to System «Diagnosis When On-Board Diagnostic Indicates No Error Found."

"The On-Board Diagnostic Test can be initiated at anytime with the resulting DTCs being displayed. Normal operation of the system stops when On-Board Diagnostic is activated. To exit the On-Board Diagnostic and restart the system, push the BLUE button. The On-Board Diagnostic should be deactivated before powering the system down. Refer to the Diagnostic Trouble Code Key for an explanation of DTCs."

"DTC/SOURCE/ACTION"

"01/EATC control assembly./Replace EATC control assembly."

"02/Blend door concern./Refer to EATC Control Assembly Connector and Blend Door Actuator Diagnosis."

"03/In-vehicle temperature sensor/Refer to In-Vehicle open or short Temperature Sensor Diagnosis."

"04/Ambient temperature sensor/Refer to Ambient Temperature open or short Sensor Diagnosis."

"05/Sunload sensor short./Refer to Sunload Sensor Diagnosis."

"888/Testing complete/Refer to EATC System failure (all segments on Functional Check."

"No Heat (Blower Motor Functioning Properly)
Possible Source(s):
Coolant level.
Heater hoses.
Engine thermostat
Heater core.
Loose or improperly adjusted control cables."
 
The irration of the AC swooshing out the defrost instead of the dash vents during acceleration is caused by a VACUUM LEAK. I just had my silverfrost/light graphite 98 LSC cured of that last week. I took it to my local wheeler-&-dealership, who claimed it was the most difficult vacuum line running through the firewall into the back of the EATC unit itself, requiring the removal of the unit to fix the faulty line. It cost $300 in labor to fix a hose they threw in for free -- but it was 114 degrees in Phoenix that day, so it was worth ANY price to have the repair done.

Prior, the EATC self-diagnostic had been throwing an error code of 155 = low pressure. After, when I picked the car up, much to my dismay, it was STILL throwing a code 155. However, a little research revealed that when conducting the EATC self test, there are 2 ways to end it. If you press the COOLER ( = blue) button at the end, any error messages from the past 80 car starts ( = key in the ON position) can remain in and be displayed by the EATC's memory.

But if you end the self test by pressing DEFROST, the EATC resets itself and clears ALL error codes from the past 80 starts, hopefully resulting in the error-free 888 code.

Meanwhile, I suggest running the EATC self diagnostics with both car doors CLOSED, because at least here in Phoenix, where the outside air is very sizzling these days, when I run mine with any doors open, it's prone to throw an 030 error = in-car temp sensor short.
 
8inAZ said:
The irration of the AC swooshing out the defrost instead of the dash vents during acceleration is caused by a VACUUM LEAK. I just had my silverfrost/light graphite 98 LSC cured of that last week.
Thanks for the tidbit 8inAZ. I ran the diagnostics and it came back with the 888 code. Were you able to determine if the leak was in the engine compartment side (line got cut in firewall or something like that) or inside. For $300 from a stealership, it doesn't sound like they had to pull the dash so I was wondering if this was something that could be done thru the glove box or around the console or just yank the unit from the front.

I think I'll check the engine compartment 1st for leaks. Seems easier to do.
 
Also, the Ambient Temp Sensor is wacked out so I'm gonna replace that puppy 1st, then start listening for vacuum.
 
The wheeler-&-dealership didn't hafta pull the whole dash -- Lord KNOWS what they woulda charged me for THAT! Instead, after using lil electronic vacuum gauges to diagnose the main outlet and the check valve and the inner fender resevoir tank etc, they decided it wasn't in the engine compartment, which meant the leak was somehwere in the dash. So they lifted off the wood trim from the console, CAREFULLY removed the EATC coz it has a ZILLION wires behind in, then threaded the new hose from the inside back out through the firewall into the engine compartment. I think what they actually did was attach the new length of hose to the old hose , then slowly thread the old piece out while simulataneously working the new piece in its place.

But even if they wanted to thread the new hose to MARS and back I would have probably agreed -- afterall, it WAS 114 degrees here that day, so the $300 was no sweat off my back.

Hope YOUR leak is an easy one to fix... ;-)
 
I don't know if this will help or not, but it fixed mine. Like you heat was working, but no a/c blower was intermittant, then none at all. One of the guys here forwarded me this article, it had pics with it, I can't ifnd the url but here is the article if I can find the url I'll forward it ot ya too. good luck:

LINCOLN MARK VIII
INTERMITTENT BLOWER MOTOR FIX

Submitted by NYC LSC / 07-28-04


This article is aimed at helping Lincoln Mark VIII owners who experience the following problems:
• Blower motor cuts in/out over bumps;
• Unresponsive blower motor to HVAC head unit inputs;
If you experience these symptoms or similar problems, try this quick, free fix.

You will need the following tools:
• Small, “flat head” screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Tie wraps (optional)

Procedure
Begin by opening the glove box. Remove all the contents. before continuing. Locate the stop tabs on either side and push them in to lower the glove box door down further.
Once the glove box door is down, you'll see the following behind it:


Next, locate the 2-wire jumper wire from the blower motor to control unit (black and orange wiring). With the key in the "run" position and blower motor turned to high, wiggle - and lightly tug - on the wiring to see if it cuts in and out. If it does cut in and out, this tech article is for you, so read on! If not, there may be other problems that the people on our Mark VIII discussion board could surely assist you with, so post a question!
**NOTE: You might want to disconnect your battery seeing as how you'll be working with electrical components. I didn't feel the need to, but it wouldn't hurt (this way you can't sue me for blowing out your blower motor, control unit or HVAC head unit, if you happen to short the wires together on accident).**
What you're looking for is the black, 2 wire connector on the top right portion of the blower motor. Once you've located it, unhook it from the blower motor with a small, 'flat head' screwdriver. Be careful not to pry too hard on the locking tab, as they're known to snap off. You might get lucky and be able to get it off without the screwdriver, so try that first.

Now...the reason for the intermittent blower is that the female connector ends of the wires become loose, thus losing contact with the male connectors on the blower motor. What you want to do is take your small, 'flat head' screwdriver and get the metal ends out from the protective plastic connector. Once they're out, you'll want to use your needle nose pliers and "crimp" (or squeeze) the gap on the female end to make it smaller (if looking at the picture, you'd want to squeeze the left and right sides).

Once you've "crimped" the female ends, test fit them onto the blower motor without the black, plastic connector. You MUST make sure that you install the wiring as it was when you first saw it!! (black wire goes on top, orange underneath) Once you're confident of a nice, tight fit with no play, go ahead and fit the wiring back into the black, plastic connector (attaching clip is face up, and the word "PUSH" reads right to left, orange wire goes on the left, black wire goes on the right). Push them in until you hear a "click". The wiring is now seated correctly in the connector.

The next step is to re-attach the connector with the wiring you just installed. In my case, the locking tab seemed loose, so I put a tie wrap around it to hold it in place.
If you disconnected your battery, get up from under the dash and re-attach the cables. Once that's done, turn your key to the "run" position and test your work by working the HVAC control head unit in the dash. Your blower motor should now function correctly for many more miles to come! If, and when, it decides to act up again, you'll be one-up on your car and will be able to have some semblance of air until you're able to work on it again.
 
MeNmyMarkVIII said:
I don't know if this will help or not, but it fixed mine. Like you heat was working, but no a/c blower was intermittant, then none at all. One of the guys here forwarded me this article, it had pics with it, I can't ifnd the url but here is the article if I can find the url I'll forward it ot ya too. good luck:

LINCOLN MARK VIII
INTERMITTENT BLOWER MOTOR FIX

Submitted by NYC LSC / 07-28-04


This article is aimed at helping Lincoln Mark VIII owners who experience the following problems:
• Blower motor cuts in/out over bumps;
• Unresponsive blower motor to HVAC head unit inputs;
If you experience these symptoms or similar problems, try this quick, free fix.

You will need the following tools:
• Small, “flat head” screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Tie wraps (optional)

Procedure
Begin by opening the glove box. Remove all the contents. before continuing. Locate the stop tabs on either side and push them in to lower the glove box door down further.
Once the glove box door is down, you'll see the following behind it:


Next, locate the 2-wire jumper wire from the blower motor to control unit (black and orange wiring). With the key in the "run" position and blower motor turned to high, wiggle - and lightly tug - on the wiring to see if it cuts in and out. If it does cut in and out, this tech article is for you, so read on! If not, there may be other problems that the people on our Mark VIII discussion board could surely assist you with, so post a question!
**NOTE: You might want to disconnect your battery seeing as how you'll be working with electrical components. I didn't feel the need to, but it wouldn't hurt (this way you can't sue me for blowing out your blower motor, control unit or HVAC head unit, if you happen to short the wires together on accident).**
What you're looking for is the black, 2 wire connector on the top right portion of the blower motor. Once you've located it, unhook it from the blower motor with a small, 'flat head' screwdriver. Be careful not to pry too hard on the locking tab, as they're known to snap off. You might get lucky and be able to get it off without the screwdriver, so try that first.

Now...the reason for the intermittent blower is that the female connector ends of the wires become loose, thus losing contact with the male connectors on the blower motor. What you want to do is take your small, 'flat head' screwdriver and get the metal ends out from the protective plastic connector. Once they're out, you'll want to use your needle nose pliers and "crimp" (or squeeze) the gap on the female end to make it smaller (if looking at the picture, you'd want to squeeze the left and right sides).

Once you've "crimped" the female ends, test fit them onto the blower motor without the black, plastic connector. You MUST make sure that you install the wiring as it was when you first saw it!! (black wire goes on top, orange underneath) Once you're confident of a nice, tight fit with no play, go ahead and fit the wiring back into the black, plastic connector (attaching clip is face up, and the word "PUSH" reads right to left, orange wire goes on the left, black wire goes on the right). Push them in until you hear a "click". The wiring is now seated correctly in the connector.

The next step is to re-attach the connector with the wiring you just installed. In my case, the locking tab seemed loose, so I put a tie wrap around it to hold it in place.
If you disconnected your battery, get up from under the dash and re-attach the cables. Once that's done, turn your key to the "run" position and test your work by working the HVAC control head unit in the dash. Your blower motor should now function correctly for many more miles to come! If, and when, it decides to act up again, you'll be one-up on your car and will be able to have some semblance of air until you're able to work on it again.

This is from the Tech Articles here on LvC. Just go the tech articles page and click Intermittent Blower Motor Fix. Has pictures as well.
 

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