Help My Car Was Built By Morons!!!

ripped camel

ripped camel

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So unless I'm the retarded one.......... who decided it was an intelligent idea to put an f'n oil filter in a place that you can't remove it?

I unscrewed the filter and now it won't come past the front sway bar or any other fittings! I'm about to have a f'n heart attack I'm so angry!!!!:mad: Is there any tricks to this?

I never thought I'd see the day where an oil change becomes an issue.....that day has come!!:mad:

Btw, won't come out the top of the engine, Can't push it towards the back. It has nowhere to go. Am I supposed to just cut the freaking things in half, then cut the new one and half....sew it together, then install it?!!
 
wiggle it out, thats all everyone will tell you, unless its frogman then its a little shorter of an answer.
 
The sway bar is in the way. Literally there is no exit point. I can't even get a hammer in there to hammer it out...not that that would be a good idea, but at this point I just want that piece of garbage off my car!

This doesn't help either. This must be different than mine because the sway bar is across the middle of where the filter is in the picture. How do I take off the sway bar and will that necessitate an alignment if I remove it? what's the torque specs on the sway bar?
http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/oil_filter.htm

Man there just has to be a better way!
 
Cut the wheel all the way to the left, tilt the filter down and wiggle it out. If it does not fit you may need engine mounts, but even then it should come out unless someone tried to shoehorn in an FL1A
 
It can be done. But the inconvenience is the cost of having a car that has a 4.6 liter DOHC V8 engine in a space that was designed solely for v6s.
Every time you do it, it gets easier... until the car gets old and suddenly as the mounts start to age, it starts getting harder.

It's a matter of turning it after unscrewing it so that the bottom comes out first.

Noting your emotion, perhaps you should consider purchasing a relocation kit this weekend?
 
Just wiggle it around until it comes out. No need to remove the sway bar or anything else.
 
Ok I'm done whining ;)

I finally got it out. I drove the car originally onto some wooden boards so I can easily slide under the car. I had to pry it out behind some black rubber hose. It was an FL1A filter that was in there....Fram (why ever they would opt for a FL1A and use a Fram?!). I replaced it with a regular STP S2.

I'm seafoaming the engine a second time with new oil this time. I'm going to let her run about 1000 miles then do an oil change with Lucas and a K&N oil filter (both of which are standing by awaiting to serve :) )

Thanks for the responses guys.
 
with the money spent on the k&n oil filter you should've bought an amsoil filter, or hell, even a wix. a wix is cheaper and filters just as good (if not better) then a k&n. you basically paid for the name on that filter. amsoil filters are the :q:q:q:q. the media is ridiculous, and not only does it filter out more crap but they also last. they're rated at 25k, but there is a reason for that. mostly because of diesel guys however the oil they also make is rated for the same, but under "normal conditions" most of us would get 10-15k. this is the good stuff they make though that i'm talking about, not the cheaper stuff, they have a class 4 synthetic which is competition to mobile one and royal purple, and they have a class 5 which is competition to redline but $2 or $3 cheaper per quart. the downside is if you don't have synthetic in your mark then it's probably too late to switch over. the upside, if you use an amsoil filter, you can get away with just draining and refilling your oil for 12-15k rather then reaching in there to change the filter. this has been proven, and if you are sketchy about it, you can go to napa and buy an oil test kit, or drain some oil out and send it to amsoil and get it tested and it will still pass.
 
I thought Mobil 1 synthetic was proven to be actually a dino/synthetic blend and not a true synthetic.

I have no clue how to figure out if my oil that was in the car was synthetic or not. There were no records that came with the car so I'm clueless how to find out.
 
My experience with Lucas is with petroleum oil only. Not with synthetic. I don't know if it should be used with synthetic or not.

I have been using Lucas oil treatment for years and recommend it. Especially for high mileage engines.

Their biggest claim is to prevent dry start-ups. It works. If you have an enginge that 'rattles' when starting cold, you will notice that the 'rattles' disappear when using Lucas.

I also noticed my engine runs smoother on cold starts than it does without the Lucas.
 
kustomizingkid said:
Mobil one is a group III synthetic...
Click to expand...

lol well, that just proves my point more...as far as lucas being junk, their whole philosophy on things is that if it's thicker it won't leak. in the summer i've used they're products and had ok results, i've had better results with other products, but in the winter stay away. if you put a bottle of oil treatment out overnight it will freeze, do you really want that :q:q:q:q in your engine? i have used it to stop leaks before and it worked temporarily. the best stuff that i've found as far as leaks go is blue devil products. for transmission additives lube guard and seafoam's transtune i've had good luck with in the past. fuel, seafoam, always. oil, it all depends on what you're using it for, seafoam will actually clean your engine, if you need a stop leak, go with blue devil, if you're looking for an oil "treatment" like lucas' stabilizer or stp's stuff, i really have not found a difference, just stay away from the thick stuff when winter comes along.
 
Go in the oil additives section on BITOG... the biggest issue with Lucas in our motors is that thinner oil is better... hell Ford recommends a 5w20 weight oil, do you really want to put some nasty thick goo in your motor that is recommended to use a 5w20 oil??
 
kustomizingkid said:
Go in the oil additives section on BITOG... the biggest issue with Lucas in our motors is that thinner oil is better... hell Ford recommends a 5w20 weight oil, do you really want to put some nasty thick goo in your motor that is recommended to use a 5w20 oil??
Click to expand...

I thought our cars recommend 5w30.......
 
Ford re-speced them for 5w20... but 5w30 would also be a fine weight to use. I stick with 5w20 because I like the Motorcraft oil and they have 5 quart containers in stock in 5w20.
 
dunno where bob's vids went but he had ones of the lucas oil additive. it used a demonstration like the ones in the stores with the gears, but his used a motor that spun the gears much faster, and everytime he added the lucas it all foamed up!
 
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