Help! - Car Won't Start

It sounds like you have a PATS problem or possibly a weak battery. The weak battery is less likely, but AutoZone (and many other chains) will test your battery for free, so what's to lose?

Perhaps a current LLSOC member can check the TSB list; I would, but I have to get up early tomorrow, and surfing the Web on this Treo is slow...
 
weak battery.

it has enough to unlock the doors but not enough to start the car - happens to me all the time....

You try to start it - it turns over a few times, dies and then the alarm starts blarring.

check to see if the battery 'health' light is green - I bet it is red or black.
 
I think Quik is dead on. That is the first thing to look at anyway. You say it cranks for a minute then dies. Does it slowly die? Or does it crank quickly and then just quit like you shut the key off? If it's cranking slowly...and slowly dies, that is an indication that the battery is weak. It won't have enough cranking voltage to fire the ignition and injectors. When it dies like that, the alarm has some adaptive stratagy that thinks the battery cables have been cut and sets off the horn. (it's something like that...but I don't know exactly how it works) The only thing that has me confused is the PATS light (alarm light on the dash) starts flashing quickly. That indicates a Pats problem. I'm going to give you a way to make a very quick check. Try it again. As soon as the car quits cranking, stick a voltmeter across the battery terminals and measure the voltage. It should be approximately 12 volts. It shouldn't be below that! If it is, replace/recharge your battery. I'll bet your problem disappears.

As to checking the battery indicator light...I've seen a LOT of bad batteries that stayed green. Those aren't dependable indicators. Check with a voltmeter.
 
Quik LS said:
weak battery.

it has enough to unlock the doors but not enough to start the car - happens to me all the time....

You try to start it - it turns over a few times, dies and then the alarm starts blarring.

check to see if the battery 'health' light is green - I bet it is red or black.
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I just replaced the battery with a new one, the old one needed to be recharged - after I had driven the car for 30 mins (before this happened - making me think its bad and won't hold the charge.)
The car still won't start - won't even turnover once. Is it possible the FAQ from LLSOC's trick of tugging the ignition wire could've screwed me?
 
The battery Autozone sold me was a 65-DL Duralast and it doesn't have a place to put the hose for the battery gases. Is this battery ok or do I need to change it out? Thanks.
 
nope - take it back. You need the vent tube - they probably didn't realize that your battery was located in the car - the gases generated while the battery is being charged are both explosive and harmful to inhale.
 
Quik LS said:
nope - take it back. You need the vent tube - they probably didn't realize that your battery was located in the car - the gases generated while the battery is being charged are both explosive and harmful to inhale.
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I am going to take the battery back, but the battery has 750 cranking amps and the car still wouldn't start. Could the battery still be the reason it won't start or something else?

Thanks
 
Midas78 said:
The battery Autozone sold me was a 65-DL Duralast and it doesn't have a place to put the hose for the battery gases. Is this battery ok or do I need to change it out? Thanks.
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Anything else that it could be, its not the battery?
 
The battery was changed to a ventless design, so the vent itsn't needed. I got my battery from the dealer, and they told me they changed the design. Just leave the hose unattached. No problems with the battery. I forgot that when my battery was low, this same thing happened. I need to write this kind of stuff down.
 
it sounds like it doesn't even turn over now - right?

could you have done something while troubleshooting the weak battery?
 
Quik LS said:
it sounds like it doesn't even turn over now - right?

could you have done something while troubleshooting the weak battery?
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When the key is turned all of the lights on the dashboard turn off. It's possible the alarm is not letting me start the car. Does someone know where the ground wire for the alarm is? I have the stock alarm.

Thanks.
 
Midas78 said:
When the key is turned all of the lights on the dashboard turn off. It's possible the alarm is not letting me start the car. Does someone know where the ground wire for the alarm is? I have the stock alarm.

Thanks.
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Good afternoon LS experts, any ideas on this?
 
Midas78 said:
Hey everyone,

I've tried unlocking the doors with the key and using the remote, but when I turn the ignition - the car acts like it will start, then shuts down and the alarm goes off. I hit the unlock button on the remote and the alarm shuts off. I can't start my car. Can someone help?
Yes, the transmission is in Park.

Thanks.
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i had this very same issue...... mine was the battary, it would still ture the motor over but wouldnt start ......... lights would flash and the alarm would go off :ricesmile
 
Midas78 said:
Good afternoon LS experts, any ideas on this?
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Start checking the connections in the charging system. Since you have a new battery, we'll presume that it's not weak, but it's still acting like a weak battery. That leads us to a loose connection to or from the battery. Make sure there's good contact between the terminals and the posts, then check the connections of the battery cables in the engine compartment. I've never traced them, so I don't know where the negative goes to ground, and I'm just guessing that the positive connects in or around the power distribution box, which is located in front of the passenger side wheel well.
 
SoonerLS said:
Start checking the connections in the charging system. Since you have a new battery, we'll presume that it's not weak, but it's still acting like a weak battery. That leads us to a loose connection to or from the battery. Make sure there's good contact between the terminals and the posts, then check the connections of the battery cables in the engine compartment. I've never traced them, so I don't know where the negative goes to ground, and I'm just guessing that the positive connects in or around the power distribution box, which is located in front of the passenger side wheel well.
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All the fuses in all 3 boxes are receiving juice, the theory now is the security alarm ground wire has come loose and the car won't start b/c of it. I got my LS towed (on a flatbed) to a mechanic today. I'll let everyone know the results. Thanks for everyone's input! :Beer
 
Midas78 said:
All the fuses in all 3 boxes are receiving juice, the theory now is the security alarm ground wire has come loose and the car won't start b/c of it. I got my LS towed (on a flatbed) to a mechanic today. I'll let everyone know the results. Thanks for everyone's input! :Beer
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I got the results from Gateway Ford in Kissimmee, the computer for the alarm needs to be replaced. It is going to cost just under $200 for the diagnostic, part, and labor.
 
Motts said:
no warranty on it?
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I bought it used at 67k miles and didn't have the cash for an extended warranty.

I picked up my car yesterday and had no problems, today I listened to the car radio for ten minutes while cleaning the inside of my car (b/c of the grease the mechanics leave behind), then I go to start my car so I don't wear down the battery and the same thing happens again!!!!

The engine tried to crank then shut off and the horn starting blaring. The MF'ing dealership I was recommended to is closed on the weekends (sonovabit). So I'm w/out a car again. I do have a 12 mth warranty on the work though. I hope the problem is only a weak battery, but the WTF was wrong with it before when I had this same thing happening - and why is it happening again?

Acura here I come! (j/k, i'm not giving up on the LS yet)
 
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