Help! - Car Won't Start

Midas78

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Hey everyone,

I've tried unlocking the doors with the key and using the remote, but when I turn the ignition - the car acts like it will start, then shuts down and the alarm goes off. I hit the unlock button on the remote and the alarm shuts off. I can't start my car. Can someone help?
Yes, the transmission is in Park.

Thanks.
 
try opening and shutting the trunk... thought I read somethign about that..
 
Motts said:
try opening and shutting the trunk... thought I read somethign about that..

I went into the trunk to get out the tire iron and car jack so I could take off the wheel and paint the brake calipers. Well the tire iron is rusted so I put the things back in the trunk to get a new tire iron. That's when the car wouldn't start. I went inside b/c its hot as :q here for 10 mins, then tried again - still didn't start, I opened the trunk again to see if that I had anything to do with starting the car, and it didn't start.
After I lock the doors - the light on the dashboard for the alarm is not blinking either.
Has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks.
 
I know LLSOC.com has a section about a starting problem in their faq section. Check that.
 
check the connection on your battery.... its in your trunk.. maybe you knocked it loose..
 
SurfjaxLS said:
I know LLSOC.com has a section about a starting problem in their faq section. Check that.

I'm not a member and it takes a week for the application to be processed. Can anyone help?

Thanks.
 
were trying.. are you gettin anything.. does it try to turn over.. a clickin noise??
 
Motts said:
were trying.. are you gettin anything.. does it try to turn over.. a clickin noise??

I did check the battery connection, and the car is acting like it will start, then shuts off, then the car alarm starts blaring. The radio plays, the A/C runs, but the ignition will not start the car. yes, I did turn off all accessories when trying to start it.
 
i dont know if a possible dead battery in the remote would be it.. try phone the local LM dealership speak to the service manager.. let us know.. i'm sure someone else will post whats wrong..
 
Maybe the key got reset somehow. If the chip in the key was reset, the car will start (or at least try), and then turn off, followed by the alarm.
 
Last edited:
Ok, I tried the step in FAQ for LLSOC and blew the PATS fuse (easy to replace - at least the horn doesn't blare anymore), but now the car doesn't even try to start like it did before - the accessories will still turn on though.
As far the key being reset, I tried with the spare key that sits in the kitchen drawer and I had the same issue.
Any other ideas?
I just have the feeling that the service advisor will say - we need to see the car before I can tell you anything, which I can't afford now or in the near future.
 
tell him your a loyal lincoln driver if he could possibly point you int he right direction..
 
sounds like you are having a pats system malfuntion.have seen a few transceiver problems.think that there is also a tsb for something simular to your problem
 
l-m tech said:
sounds like you are having a pats system malfuntion.have seen a few transceiver problems.think that there is also a tsb for something simular to your problem

What is a tsb?
 
14. My LS won't start. Here's one possible solution.

#825 of 831 No Start Condition (#812: mskusa) by reneleblanc Jan 01, 2001 (09:29 pm)



I would refer you to some previous posts of mine, but with this new "improved" list software, I can't get back there to section VII or VIII, where ever it was to find the reference.


I and at least one other LS owner had a problem with the PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) that caused a no-crank situation. If you are experiencing a no-crank condition, watch the PATS LED on the top of the dashboard after you turn the key. In my case, it began to flash rapidly; then after about a minute it stopped for a few seconds and then flashed once and paused and flashed once again, to indicate the code "11" (as I recall).


In my case, the problem was a bad connection between the four-conductor cable to the PATS transceiver and its connector. This is right next to the ignition key lock. I pried the small simulated wood plate around the ignition key lock off and could see the cable and connector with a green part on it. I took a pair of needle nose pliers and firmly grabbed the cable and vigorously tugged back and forth on it to better seat its connection with the connector. The connector makes contact by puncturing the insulation in the cable when a machine squeezes it down onto the cable during manufacturing. If it isn't squeezed down with enough pressure, the little contacts don't make a good connection, and if the insulation expands a little, it will open up and you won't be able to start your car. After I reseated it (probably last August or September) it has never failed again.
 
lexdiamondz10304 said:
did you check if you had a loose pats connection?

Yea, I responded earlier in the thread -

"Ok, I tried the step in FAQ for LLSOC and blew the PATS fuse (easy to replace - at least the horn doesn't blare anymore), but now the car doesn't even try to start like it did before" - the accessories will still turn on though.
As far the key being reset, I tried with the spare key that sits in the kitchen drawer and I had the same issue.
Any other ideas?
I just have the feeling that the service advisor will say - we need to see the car before I can tell you anything, which I can't afford now or in the near future.
 
lexdiamondz10304 said:
did you check the light on the dash? does it flash quickly?

Yes it does for about a minute, then goes back to normal flashing like the door is locked even though the key is still in the ignition and the doors are unlocked.
 
"watch the PATS LED on the top of the dashboard after you turn the key. In my case, it began to flash rapidly; then after about a minute it stopped for a few seconds and then flashed once and paused and flashed once again, to indicate the code "11" (as I recall)."

Dont know what the code 11 means but im sure quick or ghost might know.
 
lexdiamondz10304 said:
"watch the PATS LED on the top of the dashboard after you turn the key. In my case, it began to flash rapidly; then after about a minute it stopped for a few seconds and then flashed once and paused and flashed once again, to indicate the code "11" (as I recall)."

Dont know what the code 11 means but im sure quick or ghost might know.

It flashed rapidly for about a minute, then flashed like normal (when the car is locked.)
 
Midas78 said:
What is a tsb?
TSB = Technical Service Bulletin. It's not a recall; when a manufacturer repeatedly sees a problem and discerns a solution, they issue a TSB so the techs/mechanics will know how to solve it. It's analogous to a recall in that it is a solution to a problem, but it's different in that Lincoln won't call you to have the work done, because it's not a safety issue (normally).

If you know that there's a TSB that's applicable to your issue, you can point it out to the service advisor before you go so they can be ready for you before you go in. It's also useful if you go to a reputable shop/mechanic for the repair--they should have access to the TSBs as well (either from the manufacturer or through a service like Alldata). You can also ask the dealer service advisor to check Ford's system (OASIS, as I recall) to see if a particular TSB has been done on you car by an FLM dealership.
 

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