Gen 1 Seat issue, never saw this one before.

ONEBADMK8

ONEBADMK8

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Customer brings me 93 Mark. Says passenger put seat ALL the way back until is totally bottomed out, then the fuse heats up pretty quick and nothing works on that seat. If I disconnect seat that has issue and replace fuse all works normally. No wires are crushed, pinched or exposed. Can it be jammed? Has anyone ever had this issue?
 
When you replace the fuse, does it come out of the "all the way back" position? Almost sounds like the motor is getting weak or the passenger must be of large size because normally it's the drivers side that has the problems.

[url]http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17509&highlight=seat[/URL]

If you decide to get this deep into it, the motors can run like new again. I personally haven't had that problem, except for a weak back and forth motor on the drivers side.
 
Yup, sounds like seat motor rebuild time, or replace the track. Motors are weak and trying to pull more amps than fuse will allow. Larger fuse will burn wires..
My 93 driver side had this issue, rebuilt and it worked fine..used NoLimits posted link
 
This one is strange. His Wife put it ALL the way back to the stopper I mean back I have never seen one this far back or this low ever. He said after that when they pulled in the driveway He noticed His seat didnt auto glide anymore, He then tried moving the passenger seat and it was locked, He then started poking around the fuse panel and touched the metal fuse for the seats/trunk..etc and it was HOT! He then unplugged the pass. seat main power and all else worked normal. Can this be jammed? The car has less the 10k on it, the pass seat is almost never used, very wierd. He removed it then we started tearing it apart. I have the whole front pass. seat out now but Im stuck.
 
If you can figure out what wires work the back and forth motor, I would apply the voltage needed to make it move and then use a rubber mallet, while the switch is in the forward position to get it "un-stuck" and to prevent it from happening again, I would drill a hole on each side of the track and install some polyurethane stoppers as far back as you can get them. I'm not sure what color the wires would be for that particular motor but yes, it does sound stuck. If I could get it out of that position, I would definitely do something to make sure it didn't happen again. If it happened once, it will likely happen again.

Under 10K, that thing must look like new inside.
 
Also, if less than 10K on the car, it could possibly be in need of some contact cleaner on the switches, seeing that it hasn't been moved but very little. I would clean all connections with some CRC or the like electronics cleaner and you may even have to try another switch but it almost sounds like it is "gear stuck"

If you're hearing a clicking sound when you try to move it forward, then I would say the switch is good and it is "gear stuck" and this is why I suggested the rubber mallet. Lay the seat on it's back and have your fingers on the switch and before each strike, pull the switch forward and maybe it will let loose. If there is no clicking sound, then I would go with some electronics cleaner and hit all connections and the switch itself and or try another known good switch.
 
Got one of these???
20120626_151348.jpg


Anyone who plans on doing anything electrical more than once should make their life easier and go get

Poly stoppers in the track will only break the first time someone attempts to use the seat as designed
 
I'd like to see a pic of just how far back the seat will go... I know both of mine will go back far enough to where you can't remove the rear feet nuts
 
Sapperfire said:
I'd like to see a pic of just how far back the seat will go... I know both of mine will go back far enough to where you can't remove the rear feet nuts
Click to expand...

Mine too. It was hell to get the rear bolts out and it took about an hours worth of tool finding, new cuss words in a few sentences but I managed. It was the passengers side too on the 94 that burned and there was no getting power to that seat. Not the way it was setting but I finally found the perfect long wrench with an angle on it and with a whole lot of little 1mm turns, I finally got the bolts out. It was nice getting it to the white car and plugging it up and being able to move it where I needed it.
 
Perhaps it went past the stop somehow?

I had the passenger seat on my '96 quit intermittently then totally refuse to work. All electrical tests showed OK. I pulled the seat after battling with the rear bolts and partially disassembled it. When I could find nothing wrong, I set the seat track back in the car and plugged it in. It worked fine and I reassembled the seat in the car and it has been fine since. I can only assume it was a bad harness connection somewhere.
 
No this is what happenes. When plugged in it gets the fuse HOT FAST, so something is causing a short maybe. Unplug the seat all other stuff works fine. Something seems electrically engaged. I am going to power and tap tomorrow for sure but this is a wierd one.
 
Sounds like its running to ground before the motor, which would cause the motor to not work because its not getting power, and the wire gets hot because the flow of electrons does that all voodoo like
 
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