fuel pump

To continue the discussion on fuel pump types, this pic is from my SCT Pro-Racer package tune for my BTC0 PCM.

Stock, the fuel pump type is set to 2.

I wonder if using a conventional Walbro pump, and setting the type to 0, would work.

Also interesting is that stock on a '98 Cobra AOL3 PCM, this value is 1. :confused:

FuelPumpType.jpg
 
Just because you change the number doesn't necessarily mean it changes what other modules in the car do... you know what I mean?
 
Just because you change the number doesn't necessarily mean it changes what other modules in the car do... you know what I mean?

Yes, I agree. You'd probably have to also directly wire the Walbro, bypassing the FPDM. Or perhaps, the FPDM output would change depending upon this setting. The only way to know would be to test the FPDM output, or have access to the Ford PCM documentation.

Are you sure the cobra doesn't have high and low speeds?

I know that it does, but I was expecting the Mark VIII and Cobra settings to be the same, since the fuel pump issues are similar, although the '98 Cobra does not have a FPDM. What the Cobra has is a big resistor to drop the voltage to the pump during "low speed" operation.
 
so this walbro 255 will or will not work on a 97 mark? i cant find one specificaly for a 98 cobra and i purchased this one a few months ago. just havent gotten around to putting it in. now you guys have me all worried with this whole variable voltage business. just to recap; assuming it will work i will need to
1. dremmel the lid
2. switch the positive and negative wires
3. possibly do some trimming on the plug

if working correctly my mpg reading will be correct, i just cant use the bottom gallon of my tank? will this show up as invisible or will it look like i have a gallon left when i run out of gas?

also if it fails whats the worste case senario?


now as far as dropping the gas tank, can somebody post a link for convinience sake?

i read somewhere that the driveshaft needs to come out? which is ok because its also on my to do list.

and another guy told me that the headers had to come off but i have to disagree with him. that seems pretty extreme.

i realize thats alot of questions and some of them have already been answered but i am all kinds of confused right now:rolleyes: thanks
 
so this walbro 255 will or will not work on a 97 mark? i cant find one specificaly for a 98 cobra and i purchased this one a few months ago. just havent gotten around to putting it in. now you guys have me all worried with this whole variable voltage business. just to recap; assuming it will work i will need to
1. dremmel the lid
2. switch the positive and negative wires
3. possibly do some trimming on the plug

if working correctly my mpg reading will be correct, i just cant use the bottom gallon of my tank? will this show up as invisible or will it look like i have a gallon left when i run out of gas?

also if it fails whats the worste case senario?


now as far as dropping the gas tank, can somebody post a link for convinience sake?

i read somewhere that the driveshaft needs to come out? which is ok because its also on my to do list.

and another guy told me that the headers had to come off but i have to disagree with him. that seems pretty extreme.

i realize thats alot of questions and some of them have already been answered but i am all kinds of confused right now:rolleyes: thanks

Of what I understand from what others said the Walbro works if you modify the basket, but as DLF stated may not last as long as the SVT. The SVT pump is a direct drop in if you use the stock top from the mark viii basket.

Keep in mind I'm just reiterating what I've comprehended out of this thread. I could be wrong...;)
 
so this walbro 255 will or will not work on a 97 mark? i cant find one specificaly for a 98 cobra and i purchased this one a few months ago. just havent gotten around to putting it in. now you guys have me all worried with this whole variable voltage business. just to recap; assuming it will work i will need to
1. dremmel the lid
2. switch the positive and negative wires
3. possibly do some trimming on the plug

if working correctly my mpg reading will be correct, i just cant use the bottom gallon of my tank? will this show up as invisible or will it look like i have a gallon left when i run out of gas?

also if it fails whats the worste case senario?


now as far as dropping the gas tank, can somebody post a link for convinience sake?

i read somewhere that the driveshaft needs to come out? which is ok because its also on my to do list.

and another guy told me that the headers had to come off but i have to disagree with him. that seems pretty extreme.

i realize thats alot of questions and some of them have already been answered but i am all kinds of confused right now:rolleyes: thanks

You do not switch the polarity! Read my earlier post with the pictures.

The exhaust needs to be out of the way, the driveshaft does not need to be touched. However, while the tank is dropped, it's a good time to change the driveshaft.
 
ok so i found a fairly good write up on how to remove the tank after the exhaust is out of the way. i think i can handle that part ok.

but...

um...

how exactly do you just move the exhaust out of the way? wont something snap? from what ive read it looks like it needs to be cut on aftermarket exhaust systems and that sucks. mine is currently a stock exhaust system so does this mean i can just unbolt a "magical easily move exhaust out of the way" bolt?

i suppose i could wait until i upgrade my exhaust system, but i was really hoping to do things in small-ish steps.
 
ok so i found a fairly good write up on how to remove the tank after the exhaust is out of the way. i think i can handle that part ok.

but...

um...

how exactly do you just move the exhaust out of the way? wont something snap? from what ive read it looks like it needs to be cut on aftermarket exhaust systems and that sucks. mine is currently a stock exhaust system so does this mean i can just unbolt a "magical easily move exhaust out of the way" bolt?

i suppose i could wait until i upgrade my exhaust system, but i was really hoping to do things in small-ish steps.

The back half of the stock exhaust has to be removed. There are connections after the third cat/resonator.

No, it probably won't be easy as it's been on there at least 12 years....

I only lowered my tank far enough to do the swap, so I didn't have to remove all of the connections at the rear of the tank, just the wiring and feed/return lines at the front.
 
Exactly what was the part number you received? The prices i got online, were 159.99 from jegs and 179.95 from summit. This was for P/N PFS204 pump.
 
This thread should be a sticky. I am going to order the Focus pump at the end of the week and try to get this starting problem I have resolved.
 
Exactly what was the part number you received? The prices i got online, were 159.99 from jegs and 179.95 from summit. This was for P/N PFS204 pump.

Strange. Summit was $129.99 but didn't have it in stock, jegs had it for $159.99. I had Jegs price match Summit. Looks like Summit changed their price after the fact. I finally win at something ;)

Yes I ordered PFS204. Great product. As mentioned you need to use the stock top of the basket, and you can use the new bottom half of the basket. When you do the swap you swap the electricals on the top along with the floater onto the new basket in order for it to work.

I did the swap on the fuel pump, Jamie soldered the connections on the wires. I think he had to reverse polarity, but he'll have to chime in to verify that because I'm unsure of that part.
 
Yes you revers the polarity.

i sure did yo!

DLF jumps on soapbox :)

I'll try this again. :confused:

You DO NOT reverse the polarity! :mad:

You still connect positive to positive (+).

And you connect negative to negative (-).

The confusion comes from the fact that the wiring colors used on the stock Gen 2 fuel pump wires are not intuitive, and in fact, go against what most would consider normal.

The Gen 2 fuel pump plug has a black w/white tracer wire for positive (+) and a white w/red tracer wire for negative (-), which seems to confuse everyone.

Please look very closely at these pictures. In the first, you can see the stock wires, and the polarity, as they are connected to the stock pump.

And in the other pic, you can see the correct wiring for the SVT Focus pump.

It just seems like it's reversed because you have to connect the red wire (+) from the Focus pump to the black w/white tracer (+), and the black wire (-) from the Focus pump to the white w/red tracer (-) wire, from the stock plug, but the polarity remains the same!

Let's please stop posting incorrect information. Otherwise, some poor schmuck, who can see the little + and - on the stock pump, really will reverse the polarity, and then he'll have to drop the tank again. :eek:

HPIM1477s.jpg


HPIM1481s.jpg
 
I just managed to snag a new SVT pump (no basket) off of Ebay for $102.50. Hopefully this will be the last time for a while that I have to mess with it.
 
DLF I'm glad you know what is actually going on, but for everyone else that just wants a working fuel pump you hook the wrong color wires to each other...

Most people work on simple terms, like colors...

I guarantee you that you saying DON'T reverse the polarity will end up with many more dropped tanks than saying DO...
 
DLF I'm glad you know what is actually going on, but for everyone else that just wants a working fuel pump you hook the wrong color wires to each other...

Most people work on simple terms, like colors...

I guarantee you that you saying DON'T reverse the polarity will end up with many more dropped tanks than saying DO...

agreed!! like i found out!

Whatever. :confused:

I've done all I can by stating the facts and posting the wiring colors and pictures.
 
well now that i found out the way i did, and know what to do now, i'll just do what i did on any i may do in the future!!
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top