front end shudders when braking at high speeds

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mackiereese

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Could someone give me some insight on why my front end shudders when braking at high speeds, seems like it is coming from left front wheel, I can feel it in the steering wheel also. It is a 95 lincoln markvlll. Please help!!!!!
 
Warped rotors, pads could be done for. When's the last time you had your brakes looked at/replaced?
 
I'm having the same problem.

I had shimmying at high speeds. Took the rotors off to turn them. Was told they were too thin to turn, bought new rotors and a month later I have the shimmying again.

I've bled the brakes recently also. I have plenty of life on the pads but might try some new pads to fix the problem.
 
You have to get good quality brake rotors. The cheaper you go, the quicker they warp...

Unless you get these:

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/5649-01097471.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&utm_term=1993-1995+Lincoln+Mark+VIII+Brake+Rotor+Brembo+W0133-1707273+Front+93-95+Lincoln+Brake+Rotor+94&fp=pp&gbm=a

They're very cheap, but seem to be of pretty high quality. I've had them on my 97 for a while now and they're great. I got a set of the $15 Brembo rears too with the same results....

Just throwing that out there.
 
New guy here...lots of good info here!

Mine too shakes the steering wheel when braking.I have Motorcraft front rotors but I think they may be warped from the rear calipers barely working.I noticed it during the winter when the traction control kicked in it would brake a lot better after that but then the pedal would get soft again.I bled the brakes(black fluid came out) but the pedal now goes from firm to soft then back to firm so I'm thinking it's time to replace the rear calipers and get the front rotors turned.Hopefully that fixes it.

Just a heads up...I work with a guy who use to make rotors and got paid by rate.He said most of the rotors on the skids (except the ones on top) were bad and required turning.Because of the rated pay most of the people didn't care about quality and just did as many an hour they could for more money.Point being it wouldn't be a bad idea to have new rotors checked and turned if necessary.
 
Outlaw ..try setting your Parking brake a few times. Its supposed to be used every time you park, this helps the rears stay in adjustment due to it being an actuated caliper

You are correct that even a brand new rotor may need to have some lateral runout cut out of it, this is almost 99% true of Drums and not so much about rotors, but it still happens
 
Myco said:
I'm having the same problem.

I had shimmying at high speeds. Took the rotors off to turn them. Was told they were too thin to turn, bought new rotors and a month later I have the shimmying again.

I've bled the brakes recently also. I have plenty of life on the pads but might try some new pads to fix the problem.
Click to expand...

If you're warping disks that fast, you've got other issues, the more common would be binding calipers, or a hose with an inner split, or a clogged line, or a continuous aiding Booster
 
I'll try the parking brake but it usually pops back up right after pushing it down.With all the black brake fluid that came out and the fluid being hydrosopic I wouldn't doubt if the rears might have some rust inside them. also yesterday I had the right rear off and accidentally pushed the pedal down and the piston moved some but not much,it should of popped out right?.I had to use channel locks to turn it back in and it was hard to turn back in.
 
The piston popping out all depends on How far out the piston has moved prior to pushing the pedal, but typically it'll take several pumps of the pedal to expell it.

And holy crap ...you actually understand what brake fluid is-kudos (brake fluid should be clear coming out, bleed it until it is) start your bleed at the right rear, then left rear, right front and finally left front.

Next time open the bleeder screw on the caliper before twisting the piston back in- much easier
 
The pedal was pushed a couple of times to put it in neutral so I could rotate the driveshaft(rear end swap).

I already bled it out but on these cars isn't it RR,LF,LR,RF to bleed them?.But yeah start at the longest line first and work to the shortest.

I didn't open the bleeder but I might get a rebuild kit and give that a try as there a lot cheaper then new calipers.
 
Have you ever rebuilt one of these calipers? Its a little different than a front
Not that it's mind blowingly hard or anything, just asking
 
Ill still never understand why people want to go the cheap route on brakes as opposed to just fixing it. Its the only system on the car that STOPS a vehicle. When you travel at 70-80+ MPH in a huge piece of iron with sheets of glass stuff around it, stopping it could prove rather useful
 
Believe me if I had the money right now I would get new rear calipers.I already replaced the fronts.I haven't rebuilt calipers before but the plan is to get some chem dip and let them soak.Sand the bore's with emery cloth then clean out with brake cleaner and reassemble.Any advice on rebuilding would be appreciated.

Yes it's worth it to spending some money when it comes to brakes.A lot cheaper then replacing the car or someone else's car.Next will be the rear lines but how do you reach the RR line that's way up there were it crosses over to the right side? looks like a PITA!
 
Do not chem dip them

If the inside bore is putted-toss them

Ill find my rebuild thread later, or you cab search, there's many pics
 
Sapperfire said:
If you're warping disks that fast, you've got other issues, the more common would be binding calipers, or a hose with an inner split, or a clogged line, or a continuous aiding Booster
Click to expand...

What's a continuous aiding Booster?

I bled the lines before I put the rodors on except for the front right. I couldn't get the bleeder valve to twist. Maybe an air bubble there?

They felt fine right after I put the rodors on. But it took a month for the shaking to come back.

What are binding calipers or 'an inner split'?
 
Binding caliper is when the piston doesn't back off the pads or the sliding pins are sticking or froze.inner split would be the brake hose's inner line being split.The hose has a inner line and a outer hard rubber hose to keep it from expanding.

Would bad strut rod bushings or a bad strut rod sleeve or rack and pinon bushings cause it to shake?. I have new Ford strut rod bushings but had to use used sleeves.If I hold the wheel tight I can feel the steering shaft shake when braking.I also replaced the inner and outer tie rods,lower control arms but it still shakes and feels like it's coming from the left side too.Also when the rear brakes are grabbing it's not as bad.
 
Outlaw94 said:
Binding caliper is when the piston doesn't back off the pads or the sliding pins are sticking or froze.inner split would be the brake hose's inner line being split.The hose has a inner line and a outer hard rubber hose to keep it from expanding.

Would bad strut rod bushings or a bad strut rod sleeve or rack and pinon bushings cause it to shake?. I have new Ford strut rod bushings but had to use used sleeves.If I hold the wheel tight I can feel the steering shaft shake when braking.I also replaced the inner and outer tie rods,lower control arms but it still shakes and feels like it's coming from the left side too.Also when the rear brakes are grabbing it's not as bad.
Click to expand...

This stuff would be all new Motorcraft parts. That's if you want to rebuild the calipers or w/e you wanna do. As for rotors, I have bought from O'Reilly's and got all 4 of them for my B on B 94 that I had and never had one problem out of them being shaky or wobbling. I was going to get slotted rotors for the 95 but these are fine and really don't see the need in it. It's your money but getting ceramics is a good choice IMO. Mine are over two years old and they look like they have only been on for a few months, as far as wear. Duralast Gold ceramics from AZ is what I have. Lifetime warranty. If you're keeping stock calipers, I wouldn't mess with any high dollar slotted rotors but again, spend your money how you want. Only thing special about my brakes is that the calipers are painted red lol.

http://www.tascaparts.com/parts/index.cfm?siteid=213668[url]http://www.tascaparts.com/parts/index.cfm?siteid=213668[/URL]

I snapped this pic before I swapped out the air shocks.

2012-03-12193135.jpg
 
A brake booster can continuously aid your Brakes when one of the valves inside goes bad, this keeps your Brakes partially applied (I wouldn't suspect this unless ALL of the brakes act like they're dragging with the engine running)

Opening a rusty bleeder can be tricky. Get an old ratchet and a socket, while applying slight turning pressure to the ratchet, tap the top of it with a small hammer.
 
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