finally made it to the track, now i need some feedback/input

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NHRedneck

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finally ran my 98 at the track (New england dragway, Epping NH, sea level for those who really care) with the 4.10s, locker, sct tuner (i know nothing about the program) upgraded fuel pump and 6" alum driveshaft. times were pretty consistent at 3 passes of 15.2 and one pass at 15.1, but naturally i had expected a bit better in the time department.

for each pass i was running with OD off and Trac control off also. the shift pressures are set at +25% (maxed out) ive got the 1-2 and the 2-3 shift both happening right around 6300rpm and right as im passing thru the traps im just shy of where i would need to shift into 4th gear.

rear tires are 235/55/17 firehawks in the rear that are VERY nice about keeping traction. last year i was running a set of 245/45/17 goodyear eagle F1's that couldnt stick to the pavement if my life depended on it.

so next on the list is most def the exhaust and the 3rd cat is getting chopped out in favor of an X pipe.

my real question is, should i be seeing faster times with what ive already got? am i right about where i should be? i would def love to get dialed into the lower 14's for now, but the big picture plan for the car is a turbo later on down the line. (i know everyone says they are impossible to fit but i have a few ideas where and how to make it all happen)
 
i hear there is a lot to be had in the gen 2's tune. idk how your tune is set up, but DLF found 3 tenths from tuning.
 
Man... I woulda thought a 2nd gen with parts/chip would be a little faster. I agree. Get some more tuning. Not trying to sound like an ass, if I came across that way.

For reference, my 1st gen bone stock off the street ran 14.9. Consistantly.

I too hope to make a run at the track soon
 
You don't mention having a TC, which you probably need. What are your 60' times?

And I'm guessing that the 6" alum driveshaft is a typo?

Your shift points are a little low.

And, yes, you need a better tune.
 
6" alum driveshaft is NOT a typo. old buddy of my brothers is the one who had alot of the work done to the car, and ive laid my eyes on it. its a one peice 6" alum from a shaft shop in CT. he needed the new driveshaft after the 4.10's kuz the 2 peice stocker couldnt handle the extra rpm without driveshaft vibes.

the 60' times are between 2.1 and 2.3 seconds.

the trans is amazingly BONE stock, no jmod, no tc and 187k miles and hasnt skipped a beat, though i expect it any time soon

when im launching i normally power brake just a little bit to keep the rpm around 1100, then leave on the light.

in regards to my shift points being low, are you saying i should be shifting right around the 7k mark?

as far as needing a better tune, who do i go to/ can i tune on my own? ive got the sct software, but have no idea how to use it/ modify the current tune
 
NHRedneck said:
6" alum driveshaft is NOT a typo. old buddy of my brothers is the one who had alot of the work done to the car, and ive laid my eyes on it. its a one peice 6" alum from a shaft shop in CT. he needed the new driveshaft after the 4.10's kuz the 2 peice stocker couldnt handle the extra rpm without driveshaft vibes.

the 60' times are between 2.1 and 2.3 seconds.

the trans is amazingly BONE stock, no jmod, no tc and 187k miles and hasnt skipped a beat, though i expect it any time soon

when im launching i normally power brake just a little bit to keep the rpm around 1100, then leave on the light.

in regards to my shift points being low, are you saying i should be shifting right around the 7k mark?

as far as needing a better tune, who do i go to/ can i tune on my own? ive got the sct software, but have no idea how to use it/ modify the current tune
Click to expand...

I'll believe that you have a 6" diameter driveshaft when you've posted a pic showing the measurement. :p

There's barely room for a 4" driveshaft (I have one), and you'd have to modify the fuel tank and probably the tunnel to get a 6" shaft in there. Nobody makes a 6" driveshaft for a street car.

You need a high stall TC to get decent 60's, around 2.0 seconds.

My car shifts right around 6.6K on both 1-2 and 2-3.

If you have the Pro-Racer package, time to study up. If you read some of my earlier posts I've offered some tuning suggestions. What is the code on your PCM?
 
DLF said:
I'll believe that you have a 6" diameter driveshaft when you've posted a pic showing the measurement.
Click to expand...

X 2 - pics or it didn't happen.

As far as the SCT tune, DLF is correct... time to study. I would recommend some dyno time to "rough it in". Then take it to the track and polish the timing and shift points. I can't add much beyond that as I am not familiar enough with the OBD2 parameters. But just increasing the line pressure on the tranny is not "tuning".

Most people with the stock TC find better results leaving off idle.

You're going through the traps at what rpms??? I find it hard to believe that 4.10s are anywhere near the trap speed capable of redlining in 3rd, especially 15 second passes. :shifty:
 
:biggrin:ill gladly take a pic of my shaft for you next time i get it up on my lift

what is exactly considered a high stall converter for the marks? i know alot of people like going with marauder converters, but that doesnt tell me anything really.

i dont believe i have the pro racer package, just the handheld xcal and the software that comes with the xcal.

if it stops raining tomorrow ill get the code of the pcm, but i must ask, why it matters? is it a difference between cali/fed emissions?
 
BTW, 6061-T6 is probably the aluminum alloy that the driveshaft is made out of, not the measurement. :rolleyes:
 
NHRedneck said:
:biggrin:ill gladly take a pic of my shaft for you next time i get it up on my lift

what is exactly considered a high stall converter for the marks? i know alot of people like going with marauder converters, but that doesnt tell me anything really.

i dont believe i have the pro racer package, just the handheld xcal and the software that comes with the xcal.

if it stops raining tomorrow ill get the code of the pcm, but i must ask, why it matters? is it a difference between cali/fed emissions?
Click to expand...

Along with a caliper. ;)

Mine is a 3,600 stall.

You can't do any real tuning with just the handheld, and the few adjustments that it allows you to make aren't significant. Or did you buy it along with a tune from someone who tunes Mark VIII's?

IF you had a Pro-Racer package and a PCM code that I'm familiar with, I might have been able to give you some tuning advise.
 
driller said:
You're going through the traps at what rpms??? I find it hard to believe that 4.10s are anywhere near the trap speed capable of redlining in 3rd, especially 15 second passes. :shifty:
Click to expand...

+1

6,600 RPM's in 3rd gear with my 4.10's and 275/40-17 DR's is about 119 MPH.
 
NHRedneck said:
what is exactly considered a high stall converter for the marks? i know alot of people like going with marauder converters, but that doesnt tell me anything really.
Click to expand...

I recommend 3500 stall minimum, you'll hardly notice it until you mat it and it seems to jump ahead. :D

3800 is a bit better if not a daily driver. ;)

I have a 4200+ in my '93 and it's still very streetable but quite noticeable if you're not used to it. :cool:
 
im not saying i was tach'ed out in 3rd when i crossed the traps, im saying i was at an rpm around where i could tell the car wanted to shift into 4th. i dont know if its the miles on the motor that is causing my slower time or the semi tall rear tires. if i get a chance to make it back over to the track before the end of the season ill try and watch my tach thru the traps.
i guess converter is gonna be next on the list after the exhaust.

and im not kidding, next time i get the car up on the lift i will most def measure the driveshaft for you guys.
 
91 for 3 runs and 88mph for one run.

i was doing a lil bit of reading and i was seeing some stuff about IMRC's either being stuck open or stuck shut, im gonna check and make sure they are operating properly
 
DLF said:
I'll believe that you have a 6" diameter driveshaft when you've posted a pic showing the measurement. :p

There's barely room for a 4" driveshaft (I have one), and you'd have to modify the fuel tank and probably the tunnel to get a 6" shaft in there. Nobody makes a 6" driveshaft for a street car.

You need a high stall TC to get decent 60's, around 2.0 seconds.
Click to expand...
+1

The 4" is a very tight fit, no way a 6" driveshaft will fit without majot mods.

driller said:
I recommend 3500 stall minimum, you'll hardly notice it until you mat it and it seems to jump ahead. :D

3800 is a bit better if not a daily driver. ;)

I have a 4200+ in my '93 and it's still very streetable but quite noticeable if you're not used to it. :cool:
Click to expand...

3500 here and it's really not bad. With the 4.10s it's quite livable. With the stock 3.07s I hated it.
 
this thread is of interest to me...I've got an xcal 3 and just the software that was given to me from sct...not impressed...would anyone suggest paying blueovalchips for their tune?

how do I find my pcm code?
 
v8only said:
...would anyone suggest paying blueovalchips for their tune?

how do I find my pcm code?
Click to expand...

You would be hard pressed to find a better "mail order" tune than one from BOC.

You'll find your 4 digit code on the PCM.
 
Interesting.
I did 14,7@97 and 2,2 at 60´ on stock Gen 1, only mods are open exhaust no cats and no air silencer. Stock tires and only in drive (D).

As the car has 1:3,27 rear diff ratio, I was thinking replacing it with eighter 1:3,73 or even 1:4,10. What would you recommend?
- I am going to use the car for daily driver and some drag racing once in a while...and I dont want to spoil the good fuel economy, as it is now. I found that the OD ratio is 0,7 so maybe the 4.1 is okay? Or is 3,73 better over all? I realize that this is not a drag racing car but I want to have fun sometimes....

RHRedneck, did you use the 4th gear (OD) on the track? Or did you finish the 3rd?
 
driller said:
You would be hard pressed to find a better "mail order" tune than one from BOC.

You'll find your 4 digit code on the PCM.
Click to expand...

I'm quite happy with my mail order tune from Lonnie. With the 4.10s/stall the shift schedule was a little off, a little communication and he emailed me a new one I've been happy with since.

Northpole said:
Interesting.
I did 14,7@97 and 2,2 at 60´ on stock Gen 1, only mods are open exhaust no cats and no air silencer. Stock tires and only in drive (D).

As the car has 1:3,27 rear diff ratio, I was thinking replacing it with eighter 1:3,73 or even 1:4,10. What would you recommend?
- I am going to use the car for daily driver and some drag racing once in a while...and I dont want to spoil the good fuel economy, as it is now. I found that the OD ratio is 0,7 so maybe the 4.1 is okay? Or is 3,73 better over all? I realize that this is not a drag racing car but I want to have fun sometimes....

RHRedneck, did you use the 4th gear (OD) on the track? Or did you finish the 3rd?
Click to expand...

4.10 or go home. No OD on the track.
 
Rich88LSC said:
I'm quite happy with my mail order tune from Lonnie. With the 4.10s/stall the shift schedule was a little off, a little communication and he emailed me a new one I've been happy with since.



4.10 or go home. No OD on the track.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the info, but how is it in "normal" driving? At what rpm are you in 50 mph? 60 mph? 75 mph? Did the fuel consumption go up?
- Just to give me some idea on the 4,10 ratio. I thought the 3,73 would be better overall....but I don't know.
 
The stall definitely makes a differnce in gas mileage. I just did about a 100 mile round trip to a car show this weekend in the Bronx which had me on the highways but also sitting idling wait for my buddy to meet up and waiting to get into the show as well as normal traffic through NYC. So you couldn't consider it straight highway driving and averaged over 18mpg.


I don't remember speed at rpm. I think 3000rpm is about 80mph. Google it and there are online calculators to figure that out based on gears and tire size.
 
chris2523 said:
4.10s are right around 2500 at 70 mph.
Click to expand...

Thanks ;)
So in my consideration, the 4.10 should be okay, especially when having the oppertunity to drive it in OD...?
I am going to buy a new diff+lok tracking, but I was not sure what to buy and what ratio....:D 1:4.10 or 1:3.73...??
Are you using 4.10? How is it?

As my car is now, it runs 1800-1900 rpm at 70 mph.
 
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