Failed inspection....bad bushings, So time to get everything for the IRS and K-member

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phreakness

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Alright well I went to get my car inspected and all the sheet said 'multiple front and rear bushings and / or seals failed." looking under the car yea their right so I've got a friend that has a lift and a little bit of money so I'm going to drop everything finish the rear end and axles and replace all the bushings I can.

I REQUIRE the same ride and comfort that Mark had right off the assy. line with maybe a little more control in the corners.

Here's my list so far.

Lower Control Arm LH MOOG K80053
Lower Control Arm RH MOOG K80055
LCA Bushings MOOG K8680
Strut Rod Bushings MOOG K8659
Front Sway Bar End Link Kit MOOG K8635
Upper Control Arm LH MOOG K8781
Upper Control Arm RH MOOG K8782
Outer Tie Rod Ends MOOG ES3169RL
Outer Tie Rod Ends MOOG ES3169RL
Inner Tie Rod Ends MOOG EV127
Inner Tie Rod Ends MOOG EV127
IRS Pinion Brace
IRS Differential Bushings
Front Suspension Support Brace
Rear Cover Brace
F3LY3B477A
IRS Spindle Bushing Kit
Addco 1 1/8" Front Anti-Sway Bar
Addco 1 1/4" Rear Anti-Sway Bar
DLF IRS subframe bushing Kit
N805747S100 IRS bolts
Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings 1-1/4 in / 31.5mm
Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings 1-1/8 in / 28.5mm
Rear End Rebuild
Axles

So do I have everything? Suggestions?
 
the addco sway bar kit should come with new endlinks, also alot of people recommend OEM srbings instead of the moog.. I got everything from rockauto and have a discount code if you decide to order from there. I believe it was 5% off.
 
Couple suggestions.

I would get the TRW sway bar links. They are straight and IMO look stronger. Also I would only get OEM strut rod bushings. Yeah a couple guys on here had good luck with Moog but a lot more have not. I went through a couple of them before I went OEM and have used the same ones on TWO cars now! :lol:

AND with that heavy motor up front I would get the 1.25" bar up front as well. When I added my blower I felt the added body roll and with your intercooler and all I am sure its greater then mine.

Hope it helps. :)
 
ok I was thinking about going all OEM also but I've read so many threads about moog this OEM that. I've got to get this researched and ordered. plus finding all the part numbers from ford and what will work with the aftermarket is mind numbing.
 
OEM ONLY for the strut rod bushings and the front sway bar links.

And I'd keep both the F&R sway bars the same size.

IRS Spindle Bushing Kit

Are you talking about the Poly kit? They don't last.

Lower Control Arm LH MOOG K80053
Lower Control Arm RH MOOG K80055
LCA Bushings MOOG K8680

Why do you list LCA bushings, if you're buying complete LCA's?
 
LaserSVT said:
Couple suggestions.

I would get the TRW sway bar links. They are straight and IMO look stronger. Also I would only get OEM strut rod bushings. Yeah a couple guys on here had good luck with Moog but a lot more have not. I went through a couple of them before I went OEM and have used the same ones on TWO cars now! :lol:

AND with that heavy motor up front I would get the 1.25" bar up front as well. When I added my blower I felt the added body roll and with your intercooler and all I am sure its greater then mine.

Hope it helps. :)
Click to expand...

Got a link / PN for the TRW sway bar links?

My intercooler is PUNY and that thing nose dives pretty hard under hard braking with that huge Iron lump up front. so 1.25 upfront it is.
 
DLF said:
OEM ONLY for the strut rod bushings and the front sway bar links.

And I'd keep both the F&R sway bars the same size.

IRS Spindle Bushing Kit

Are you talking about the Poly kit? They don't last.

Lower Control Arm LH MOOG K80053
Lower Control Arm RH MOOG K80055
LCA Bushings MOOG K8680

Why do you list LCA bushings, if you're buying complete LCA's?
Click to expand...

MOOG-K8680 Front Strut Rod Bushing Kit - At Lower Control Arm
Moog K80053 Control Arm with Ball Joint: left
Moog K80055 Control Arm with Ball Joint: right

Mis-labeled ... I think.
 
phreakness said:
Got a link / PN for the TRW sway bar links?

My intercooler is PUNY and that thing nose dives pretty hard under hard braking with that huge Iron lump up front. so 1.25 upfront it is.
Click to expand...
Go to Roackauto.com I tried to link the screen but cant for some reason. Or you can try Max. The OEM UCA/LCA are TRW anyway so dont matter if you go to Rock or Max.
Your intercooler has two seperate radiators, a pump, lines and a gallon of coolant...... and its all high or way out in front of the axle so roll is even more pronounced.
New UCAs will help diminish the nose dive a bit.
Icarus said:
Sway bars will do very little at most for nose dive.
Click to expand...

True but they do a LOT for body roll. :lol:
 
LaserSVT said:
Go to Roackauto.com I tried to link the screen but cant for some reason. Or you can try Max. The OEM UCA/LCA are TRW anyway so dont matter if you go to Rock or Max.
Your intercooler has two seperate radiators, a pump, lines and a gallon of coolant...... and its all high or way out in front of the axle so roll is even more pronounced.
New UCAs will help diminish the nose dive a bit.


True but they do a LOT for body roll. :lol:
Click to expand...

can you give me a part number? I've had rockauto on a tab for 2 months.

I just noticed alot of slop and alot less firmness when breaking and turning.

Damn I'm looking at almost 2k just in bushings and bracing.
 
The doormans are 520260 and 520259 for the UCAs (I have heard the Doorman is also OEM but can not verify)

520261 and 520 262 are the lowers.

The Moog parts from them are: K8783 and K8784 for the lowers and for the uppers are K8781 and K8782.

The end links are: # MCS18128 for Motorcraft or # 45G0102 for the ACDelco (yeah, I know)

As for the SRB you have to go to Max. Thats a dealer only item and I would bet if everything is shot that your sleeves are also stuck together and will be dammaged upon removal so get the complete SRB set WITH the sleeves. Its like $200 but will last another 10 years or more.
 
here is the code for 5% off rock auto it's only good till the 8th. Hope it helps
34059752797505
 
i've got some 03 cobra axles that I'll try to have fun with. But both of my current axles are new as the originals were seized to the hubs.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Here is a link to a guy I found on Ebay that has some OEM axels for sale new not used at $85.00 a piece. I thoought it was a good price anyone think otherwise please let me know.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0300554229&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Click to expand...

I bought those from that same seller a couple years ago. He had the same pics then. When I got mine, they looked almost perfect....way better than he described. That was a couple years ago though.

Here's a thread documenting the awesome deal I got on mine...
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?p=442255#post442255
 
Well I guess I am buying a pair although I will not end up as cheap as you with exchange and shipping to Canada but I thought it would be worth it. Mine have no threads left on the hub end from corrosion so when I go to do the rear end I might as well not fight and replace the axles.
 
Yeah, I had that on the passenger side, so I just replaced them both since they were pretty cheap.
 
phreakness said:
Alright well I went to get my car inspected and all the sheet said 'multiple front and rear bushings and / or seals failed." looking under the car yea their right so I've got a friend that has a lift and a little bit of money so I'm going to drop everything finish the rear end and axles and replace all the bushings I can.
Click to expand...

That's crazy!:eek: Did they pass it? Last time I had mine inspected, they checked the lights and signals, punched it into the computer, charged me $13.60 and sent me on my way. And that was on the '97 LSC.
 
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