EGR tube

N

NickT88LSC

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I did the search thing and no direct hits, so I am gonna ask the question. On my 95 Mark VIII the EGR tube is leaking exhaust, I have a new one, and I am sure it is a PITA, just wondering if anyone has done one and has a replacement procedure. I have paid on alldata DIY but it does not give a replacement procedure. It does say repair time is 1.4 hrs warranty, 2.0 normal time. Time wise does not sound too bad, but I know it is tight in there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. When I looked up the EGR replacement procedure it did say to use a 22MM crows foot to loosen the tube nut.

Thanks,

Nick
 
also did mine with the trans out when i was doing the rear main and oil pan gasket. I can tell u it will not be any kind of fun doing it with the trans in. I hope you atleast have access to a lift.
 
Yes, I will be doing it a shop with a lift, just was wondering any tricks or input on making it easier, like maybe disconnecting the trans mount and letting the trans hang if that gives any better access???
 
HMMM.... I undid one on my 94 with the trans in...

All I can say is EPIC PITA... are you in the rust belt?
 
The first time I did it, I found it to be an immensely frustrating experience.

In retrospect, it's not that bad.

Don't put the new one on real tight; that way if it has to come out again one day you won't have as tough a time with it.
 
Are you sorry you took that car off my hands yet or what?

If not, while doing this I'm sure you will be!

:D
 
NYC LS8 said:
Are you sorry you took that car off my hands yet or what?

If not, while doing this I'm sure you will be!

:D
Click to expand...


No way, I love a good challenge. No insight though from anyone other than you'll be sorry???? I was thinking of another way since I have not seen a procedure yet, To me it might be easier to unbolt the egr and remover the front pipe/cat with the EGR/tube and cat as an assembly then screw with it out of the car???
 
Since you have access to a lift, I would take the trans out, do the 1-2 accumulator and springs and J-Mod the trans while it's out and then you'll have no problem doing whatever you want with the EGR. When I had my trans out, I could see it and get to it very easily but messing with it while it's in, I wouldn't even want to imagine it.

I say this not knowing what has been done to your transmission but if none of this has been done to it, it would be a good time to knock it out and it's all cheap. Just time consuming but you'll love that trans when it's finished. You'll also be glad that you can actually see what you're doing with the EGR tube.

There is a challenge for you. It's all not as bad as you would think either.
 
I replaced mine without removing my trans. I don't remember there being much of an access problem, I used big open end wrenches, and maybe a vice grip.

I think the big problem is rust. I was able to spray the fittings with PB blaster every few days for a couple weeks before I took mine off (I wasn't driving the car at the time).

You want to make sure to hold the fitting on the cat tight while you remove the fitting on the tube. I've heard that the fitting on the cat can break loose.

egr.jpg
 
Cool Deal, Obviously since I am doing it in a shop I have access to torches if I can get to the fittings and heat them up if need to to break them loose.

Thanks, I will post the results when I get a chance to do it.
 
I found this on my version of alldata. This job will be a bear for sure. If you have access to a torch use it. If it's not an option, then get a bottle of mapp gas [not propane]. Mapp gas is hot :q:q:q:q and makes propane it's bitch. And also use gold antiseize on them and they will come right off if necessary . And you can still have them tight.




Notes

REMOVAL

* Remove engine appearance cover, air cleaner outlet tube and engine air intake resonator.
* Disconnect EGR pressure valve sensor hoses from EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube.
* Disconnect EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube from EGR valve and EGR valve tube to manifold connector.
* Remove EGR valve tube to manifold connector from exhaust manifold.

INSTALLATION

* To install, reverse removal procedures. Tighten EGR valve tube to manifold connector to exhaust manifold to 45-65 Nm (33-48 ft lb) . Tighten EGR valve to exhaust manifold tube nuts to 35-45 Nm (26-33 ft lb) .




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Might want to consider doing the IACV if you're removing the transmission too.
 
NYC LS8 said:
We did the IAC a few years ago on it when I owned it. What a complete pain the balls THAT was.
Click to expand...


lol, I have done a few of them now and finally have it down to 45 min to 1 hour from start to finish. It is a pain though. 1 hour if I include removing the hood. I can do it in 45 min, maybe less if the hood is out of the way. Makes life much easier with it off.
 
JMiles_T said:
Can't be done; it fastens to the header.
Click to expand...
+

I forgot about that, but was quickly reminded when I had it on the lift today. Anyway, got it done. I would not want to have done this without air tools, torches, lift. Here are a few pics, also did the EGR valve while I was there, I know my luck I would find out it needed to be replaced after everything was back together, so I was not taking the chance.

Here is my run down,

1) Took off wipers
2) Removed cowl covering
3) Removed wiper motor and linkage as a unit with rest of cowl cover it attaches to.
4) Ah, now I can see theEGR valve and tube :)
5) Loosen and remove nut to EGR valve from EGR tube by turning the wrench over on each turn since not much turning radius with the wrench available, find that the nut is seized to the tube and the whole tube is turning, so I remove the EGR with top 1/2 of tube connected to it since it broke the tube all the way turning it (see pics). Now remove the tube from EGR by spinning, would not spin in car, was wedged against firewall the way tube is contoured.
6) Heat up the nut on the EGR tube to cat. converter connector and remove it.
7) Remove lower portion of tube
8) Decide to order a new EGR valve since I have it out and dont know the condition of it.
9) Put in new EGR valve
10) Slide EGR tube down behind engine and thread the nut to EGR valve
11) TRY to get nut caught on converter end, cant get nut to catch, seems like tube is not bent 100 percent correct, sooooo strip fitting on converter, ARRRRRRG!!!!!
12) Heat up converter and remove fitting, repair threads so screw on tube
13) put it back in, fight with it, finally get it to all catch and secure everything and reinstall everything. AHHHHHHH!!!!!!

So, all I can say is it deffinetly can be catogorized as a PITA!!!!!!

The new tube does not have the flex part in it like the old one, so I am sure that added to the difficulty here.

egr tube 2.jpg


egr tube 3.jpg


egr tube (Medium).JPG
 
Good stuff!

I wasn't aware that there was a new type EGR tube without the horrid flex section.

I'm gonna get me one of those! :)
 
So the old one there in the picture, is it busted from you taking it out or was it that bad? Either way, nice work, hamma :D Hate to say it, but I'm glad I wasn't there for that. Although, since it's not mine any more, I wouldn't have gotten pissed. lol
 
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