Doing a tune up
- Thread starter der3wuste3fuchs
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der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
Thanks Hinzy, is DG529 V6 specific? Man those are a pretty penny..
No, those are V8
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That "lifetime warranty' is pretty much useless (prove that it has become marginal and needs to be replaced) and in no way implies that they are well made. It's a marketing thing only.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
Oh ok, do you know any other Ebay sellers who have the V6? I Guess I'll check out Tasca.
Edit:
Never mind I found a really good thread that explained everything. I was quite confused when searching, and the "thread to end all threads" on COPs, etc. that was posted was really a mess with broken links and not very helpful.
Here is the one that helped be a bunch:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=78998&highlight=COP+number&page=4
So basically, the two top dogs in COP replacements are:
1.) Motorcraft ("OEM")
2.) Visteon
Now, from what I gather, the Motorcraft COPs are NOT the production line brand.
They are in fact the "aftermarket" COPs, or ones that do not get put into the production line; this is kind of a interest because I thought that was what "OEM" was synonymous with.
The Visteon's are another "OEM" type however it was for the U.K. or Euro spec markets and seems to be all the same good qualities and reviews. These are not the "China" ones.
There are two different types of COP models for each engine (V6/V8) which was interesting because I thought they were interchangeable.
Visteon 60-1004 (V6)
Visteon 60-1008 (V8)
Some people say the "OEM" are no better than china COPs, but that it's a luck-of-the-draw with Ebay Cheapo parts.
Hope this helps anyone. That thread is a good read.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
I just searched for B12 Chemtool, as it's the first I've heard of it. I've been a big user of Seafoam, but it's seems this is the newer replacement. However from what I've read it seems like quite the harsh cleaner, more of a carb cleaner...
It sounds great but as sensitive and touchy as this car is maybe it's not for her?
Threads:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1069293
http://www.zrxoa.org/forums/showthread.php?268708-Seafoam-or-B12-chemtool
Failed to mention its a "Lifetime replacement warranty".
Why you would ever want failed parts to be replaced with the same is beyond me.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
Yeah, I might use it for the whole "tune-up" purpose as a one-time type use and go from there.
Why would you need to change the oil after using this though? Maybe I'm not firing on all cylinders but oil and fuel are separate flows as the fuel waste is exhausted.. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow?
Thanks for the B12 tip though, I will probably give it a shot.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Some will make it past the rings and into the crankcase.
Some engine cleaners recommend you add them to your crankcase prior to an oil change to help flush the engine.
I would not do this with the LS. If it was maintained properly it had Semi-Synthetic oil in it to begin with. If you really think there is a lot of sludge build-up in the engine then you are better off putting a good semi-synthetic oil, or just full synthetic, in it and just changing it more often. The motorcraft semi-synethic oil is some of the best stuff you can get next to full-synthetic and reasonably priced too. Just change your oil every 3K-mi until you feel enough sludge has come out. You can also spin a new oil filter onto the car after 1000-mi and dissect the old one for inspection. See how much sludge it seems to trap. If the element looks particularly dark/dirty or has sludge on it then you know you still got more cleaning to do. If it just looks a shade darker then the oil then you probably don't need to worry about cleaning the engine.
Also, all these cleaners can sometimes do damage to the engine through eating up seals and bearings. Particularly solvent-based cleaners like B-12. Not to mention the harm that can happen by a pound of sludge suddenly being liquefied and pumped through the engine before it gets trapped in the filter.
I'd really only add it to the last tank of gas you get and run that tank through before changing the oil. I wouldn't bother with any parts-store oil cleaner. The only oil additive i've ever used with any success was the Lucas stuff and it was only a patch for a worn engine anyways.
I would not do this with the LS. If it was maintained properly it had Semi-Synthetic oil in it to begin with. If you really think there is a lot of sludge build-up in the engine then you are better off putting a good semi-synthetic oil, or just full synthetic, in it and just changing it more often. The motorcraft semi-synethic oil is some of the best stuff you can get next to full-synthetic and reasonably priced too. Just change your oil every 3K-mi until you feel enough sludge has come out. You can also spin a new oil filter onto the car after 1000-mi and dissect the old one for inspection. See how much sludge it seems to trap. If the element looks particularly dark/dirty or has sludge on it then you know you still got more cleaning to do. If it just looks a shade darker then the oil then you probably don't need to worry about cleaning the engine.
Also, all these cleaners can sometimes do damage to the engine through eating up seals and bearings. Particularly solvent-based cleaners like B-12. Not to mention the harm that can happen by a pound of sludge suddenly being liquefied and pumped through the engine before it gets trapped in the filter.
I'd really only add it to the last tank of gas you get and run that tank through before changing the oil. I wouldn't bother with any parts-store oil cleaner. The only oil additive i've ever used with any success was the Lucas stuff and it was only a patch for a worn engine anyways.
jjcool00
Dedicated LVC Member
My main argument here was not to use the Lucas stuff... it's no good. I have used B12 once in the engine for 15 mins - no longer, then changed the oil which is all it should be used for. I also don't believe in seafoam. Yes truth that if you have maintained the car properly none of this stuff is needed, but considering I bought the car used like many of us have I didn't know how well the prior person maintained it so i just b12'ed it.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
That's my main intention, the last owner seemed like the guy was the type that never changed his oil and took it to the mechanics after it wouldn't start from chocolate pudding in the case.
I just recently did an oil change with fully synthetic and new oil filter so I'll probably have to give that a shot later on. Should have asked for the filter when the Mech changed it out but oh well.
By the way, quick unrelated question..
I am considering just purchasing the KKN aftermarket intake instead of a new standard filter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200851163503?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Would it be prudent to change or upgrade any other parts? I know the airflow would increase and thus maybe needed to be compensated for by getting something other than some Motorcraft Platinums...
Went to the car wash just 3 days ago..figured with all of the snow here in NY, I would get the undercarriage in the wash package...2 minutes after the wash, cel's..engine lugging..ended up replacing all 4 o2's..since I was receiving lean error..winded up pulling coils and found one with wash water completely in the well...*(#*)!!! No undercarriage splash guard can cause you some serious headaches..and near wallet flatline..all is well now..love my LS..pics on the way.
jjcool00
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm not too sure about the intake on a v6 I did a google search and the KKN seems to be commonly used with good results for the LS. If you are replacing the plugs I would recommend only the OEM ones. Some people have had success with other brands/types of plugs but if I recall correctly there are more horror stories than success stories. When I first bought the car I did - Oil, transmission flush, plugs, coils, radiator flush, the standard things. Intake was also my first "performance upgrade"
jjcool00
Dedicated LVC Member
Should probably search the threads, but this is most likely caused by bad valve cover gaskets and/or the plastic part under the wipers (I forget the name of it) not being secure.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
Did you mean the KKM? that's the one I'm going for and it seems to be the only production option besides getting a custom intake for the Gen1 V6.
I plan on flushing the tranny/ changing tranny filter but I am holding off so I can just do it myself. There is a good write-up on here for it.
The radiator I'm holding off on flushing because I want to make sure all the cooling parts/system is completely intact, otherwise I'll have to flush it out again. And, from the looks of the amount of cooling issues, that might happen several times.
Intake will also be my first "upgrade" and I'd just really like the V6 to feel like it's it's big brother and sound all manly.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Valve cover gaskets aren't a factor for water getting into the plug wells. There are no coil covers on the V6.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
That's a pretty sucky story, I've never really lived for long periods in snow-ridden places but I've always heard it's bad to go for any of those "under-car" specials as they usually do more harm then good.
Glad you got everything fixed up though.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Hey, what can I say, it's a Canadian thing .... Jack!
It's called "Prepping"
(although I F'ed up on the Degas bottle)
Jack is a horrible Kentuckian thing, eh?
RigsLS
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@Telco,
Sorry, I'm blonde, I don't get it, "Kentuckian" I thought the duck clan was from West Monroe, Louisiana ?
Sorry, I'm blonde, I don't get it, "Kentuckian" I thought the duck clan was from West Monroe, Louisiana ?
The stock plugs were NGK #6569 Double Platinums. I think you would be fine with NGK double platinums or iridium. I went with the NGK Iridium #5464 (BKR5EIX). All the durability of Platinum plugs, but with a spark performance more like a copper.
On a side note, copper is pretty much the best performing plug you can get. It however won't last like you want. If you like doing plugs every 10-15K or so then copper would work. They definitely become an ongoing maintenance item just like rotating your tires.
der3wuste3fuchs
Active LVC Member
Thanks for the tip, I saw in another post that Joegr pointed those plugs out as the stock ones so I settled with them. Good to know the maint. int. on them.