crossover tube = replaceable?

Myco

Myco

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i have the manual but im at lunch and dont have it. thought i would give you guys a shot and pick one up from the dealership on the way home if possible. the screw on my crossover is stuck. if tried everything and am either going to need to weld a nut on or create a new hole to fill uop the antifreeze and bleed the line. im wondering if you can replace the entire crossover tube. anyone know?
 
It’s not hard just a little messydoing the tube, but I would try using a chisel to back the plug off first. You can get them new from ford and just use anti-seize when you reinstall it. Don’t drill it, you might get shavings in the cooling system.
 
that cap is a p/n f3ly-8a500-a listing for $28.32 and cost you $21.24 plus shipping

The tube is discontinued and not available new anywhere i looked on the locator....maybe Jamie??

Thank You
Max Zuckerberg
Parts Specialist
Five Star Ford
7100 east Mc Dowell Road
Scottsdale AZ 85257
Direct 1-800-866-1520 ext 236
Fax 1-480-949-8478
parts@fivestarford.com
 
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Crossover tube isn't hard to replace... I had to replace mine on my 95.
Had to pull the alternator to gain access to the hold down bolts, all in all..
Refilling and burping the system took longer than changing the crossover tube.

have you tried an "EZout" tool on the current cap?
might have to drill a small pilot hole, the cap is SUPER THICK so drilling a hole for the EZout wont be and issue.

HELL.. you could drill 2 inches into it and not drill thru the other side.
 
I've considered drilling and threading a hole all the way THRU the crossover cap, so I dont have to pull the cap out to "bleed air".. just loosen the bolt and let it bleed out.

Kinda like the bleeder bolts on a some Chevy thermostat housings.
 
Think a large bleeder screw off a brake caliper would work? Wouldn’t look as nice but good idea with the bleeder though.

My crossover needs to come out so I can repaint it anyway, Myco is yours pritty rusty?
 
XLRVIII said:
I've considered drilling and threading a hole all the way THRU the crossover cap, so I dont have to pull the cap out to "bleed air".. just loosen the bolt and let it bleed out.

Kinda like the bleeder bolts on a some Chevy thermostat housings.
Click to expand...

Did YOU really think of that?
 
I SAID... I'd CONSIDERED.

I didn't say "this was tommy's idea".

WTF?
 
Drilling a hole and putting an even smaller bolt in there to bleed it doesn't make sense to me. I get the idea like the bleeders on the Chevs but then you will have to worry about an even smaller bolt getting stuck/corroded in there over time too, no? Plus as you mentioned the cap is quite thick, so the bleeder screw/bolt would have to go somewhere else to make it the high point in the system?

I'd take the cap off even if you destroy it and get a new one, or weld a nut to it. Spray it down with penetrating oil etc to get it free. I broke three ratchets taking mine off before I said screw it and took the vice grips to it. I used the old one and welded a big nut to it, and repainted it. Works like a charm now. Do use antiseize like the guys mentioned. I've had mine off a couple times since with no problems now...
 
Oh yea.. they dont have to be "SUPER TIGHT" when you put them back in also
 
Icarus said:
I get the idea like the bleeders on the Chevs but then you will have to worry about an even smaller bolt getting stuck/corroded in there over time too, no?
Click to expand...

no

Icarus said:
Plus as you mentioned the cap is quite thick, so the bleeder screw/bolt would have to go somewhere else to make it the high point in the system?
Click to expand...

no
 
I've been able to take a vice grips and get the damn cap to come off ... just need a good bite on the cap. It works ...

Oh and I also have replace the tube ... not that bad ...
 
Markviiiedrea said:
Think a large bleeder screw off a brake caliper would work? Wouldn’t look as nice but good idea with the bleeder though.

My crossover needs to come out so I can repaint it anyway, Myco is yours pritty rusty?
Click to expand...

tea. its pickled with rust. ive tried everything and need thid FIXED. i,ve hall a mind its the thermastat. if it was any other car and didnt have a forum full of people telling me that its not the thermastat. im going to order a new crossover and have a nut welded to the top by a friend and put that bad bitch on there. no more scratching my head and pointing. its time to move. ive talked to max and will willlingly give him my business.
 
As XLR mentioned, it doesn't need to be tight. The torque is 132-156 lb-in (11-13 lb-ft). :)
I still had a fun time with mine though even though it had the factory coolant in it when I got it (low kms,) but thats due to time as it's never seen winter (no rust.) Getting the whole pipe out can be fun too...
 
I think the main place people run into trouble is they don't clean out the 1/4 drive opening, they put the ratchet in and it rounds the opening out and then you are boned. I pull them at junkyard just to have extras and I always clean the opening first, hit the ratchet in with a hammer and the give it one more wack with the hammer.
 
Myco said:
ive talked to max and will willlingly give him my business.
Click to expand...

Well there should never be any doubt to give Max your business ... I get OEM parts usually cheaper than aftermarket parts at the discount stores.

Or with shipping sometimes about $5 -$10 more .. OEM are better anyway in my opinion.

Max is DaMan ...
 
kustomizingkid said:
I think the main place people run into trouble is they don't clean out the 1/4 drive opening,.
Click to expand...

Or they use a crappy 1/4 inch adapter that not only screws up the square hole, they also break and leave a piece stuck in the hole.

I use a 1/4 hardened 3/8ths adapter and since using it, have never had a problem with rounding the 1/4 inch hole or breaking the adapter.
 
Anxiously awaiting how Myco came out.
Spoke with him on the phone, he was gonna get an EZout and see if he can coax that plug out..and refil using the "funnel method".

WAKE UP MYCO!
(lol)
 
Thank you all for the kind words.....Brandon you should have taken the tubes as well....now those are worth something!! unless you can make the cobra 148.00 one work.

max
 
I've 3 or maybe 4 tubes too... but they are kind a PITA to get out, I actually cracked the block on a junkyard car trying to remove one :D
 
mycophiles may need one of those tubes, depending on how much carnage he created last night.

lol
 
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