Conical air filter

I will be doing mine the exact same way as Mespock and Driller, with a huge filter that K&N uses on their one of their Turbo deisel kits.
 
I will be doing mine the exact same way as Mespock and Driller, with a huge filter that K&N uses on their one of their Turbo deisel kits.

FYI, the biggest filter I could fit in there(with the air suspension compressor lowered) was a K&N RU-3480 which is 6" long, 5-7/8" bottom diameter, 5" end diameter and 4-1/2" flange ID. Without the compressor, you could use a larger filter.
 
The mass air flow on the marks maybe large in size but that does not mean it flows air.The sensor where it is located is bad for velocity and disrups flows.Someone should dyno before and after with a even a 75mm just to see.I could be wrong.Make a heat deflector with reflective colours on the engine side so get some hot air out for a cheap man cold air.
 
FYI, the biggest filter I could fit in there(with the air suspension compressor lowered) was a K&N RU-3480 which is 6" long, 5-7/8" bottom diameter, 5" end diameter and 4-1/2" flange ID. Without the compressor, you could use a larger filter.

I'm converting to coils, so without the compressor, and a little fandangalling i can fit a bigger filter.
 
Just be wary of puddles when you get the filter too low.... TRUST ME, why do you think I have a new engine? For the fun of it!?!?!?! LOL
 
I've ran a K&N filter for about 7000 miles on my diesel. Oil analysis came back with quite a bit of dirt in the oil. IIRC it was sitting right around 7. The K&N Filter didn't filter the air properly on that motor. I switched to an AirRaid setup, and now my dirt in oil levels are sitting at about 2. The average with an OEM filter is 5.

I've used K&N Filters on my cars, too, but frankly, I haven't seeen any performance out of them.

What people don't seem to understand is that a high flow air filter can actually hurt your cars' WOT performance. The computer doesn't read sensors like the O2's, MAF, and some others when you're under WOT. The computer can't do the math and adjust fuel mixture fast enough.

Under WOT throttle, the computer bases it's ignition and timing on built-in tables. Tables that were set up with an OEM paper filter. So, we have more air going into the motor with the K&N Filter, but the computer doesn't know this because it doesn't read the MAF when under WOT operation, but rather looks at it's built in tables, and says: "Ok, we've got this altitude, I'm running x RPM's, so I should be getting y lbs per minute going into the motor. According to my fancy doodah table here, I should be injecting z ammount of fuel into the engine in order to keep the correct stoichometric ratio."

Since the computer is not accounting for the extra air that goes into the motor, guess what happens when you don't have the proper fuel amount going into the motor? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Granted, chances of you grenading your motor are very slim, but you know what? I don't like my motors running lean, no matter how miniscule that chance is.

At least that’s how it was explained to me by a leprechaun in a forest once...
 
I've ran a K&N filter for about 7000 miles on my diesel. Oil analysis came back with quite a bit of dirt in the oil. IIRC it was sitting right around 7. The K&N Filter didn't filter the air properly on that motor. I switched to an AirRaid setup, and now my dirt in oil levels are sitting at about 2. The average with an OEM filter is 5.

I've used K&N Filters on my cars, too, but frankly, I haven't seeen any performance out of them.

What people don't seem to understand is that a high flow air filter can actually hurt your cars' WOT performance. The computer doesn't read sensors like the O2's, MAF, and some others when you're under WOT. The computer can't do the math and adjust fuel mixture fast enough.

Under WOT throttle, the computer bases it's ignition and timing on built-in tables. Tables that were set up with an OEM paper filter. So, we have more air going into the motor with the K&N Filter, but the computer doesn't know this because it doesn't read the MAF when under WOT operation, but rather looks at it's built in tables, and says: "Ok, we've got this altitude, I'm running x RPM's, so I should be getting y lbs per minute going into the motor. According to my fancy doodah table here, I should be injecting z ammount of fuel into the engine in order to keep the correct stoichometric ratio."

Since the computer is not accounting for the extra air that goes into the motor, guess what happens when you don't have the proper fuel amount going into the motor? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Granted, chances of you grenading your motor are very slim, but you know what? I don't like my motors running lean, no matter how miniscule that chance is.

At least that’s how it was explained to me by a leprechaun in a forest once...

The stock tables are completely changed if you have a chip or tune though.
 
Yes, I know this. I’m talking STOCK. Even so, ask your tuner if he knows how many pounds of air your K&N filter flows at say, 6000 rpm. If he knows, then great. If he doesn’t know, how will he know what table changes are required with new numbers when he does your tune?
 
Yes, I know this. I’m talking STOCK. Even so, ask your tuner if he knows how many pounds of air your K&N filter flows at say, 6000 rpm. If he knows, then great. If he doesn’t know, how will he know what table changes are required with new numbers when he does your tune?

Hence the reason for dynotunes, wide-band air/fuel meters, dataloggers and programmers.

The further your car is from stock the more an issue this becomes.

With an extensive knowledgebase of many setups, custom mail order tunes will, can and do accomodate most with commonly available mods. But again, the wilder the setup and lesser known, the more important real world testing and tuning becomes.
 
Here is my new conical setup :) 01 Cobra factory conical setup adapted to a Gen II intake tube in my wacked-up Gen I:

DSC04244.jpg
 
FYI, the biggest filter I could fit in there(with the air suspension compressor lowered) was a K&N RU-3480 which is 6" long, 5-7/8" bottom diameter, 5" end diameter and 4-1/2" flange ID. Without the compressor, you could use a larger filter.


The one I put on 4" diameter and 9" Long plus I put a filter sock on it just incase. If I was to go to the track the sock would come off...

And Damn Driller I always like seeing your engine bay...
 

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