champion plugs?

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Blackjack

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Hi guys, someone gave me a set of champion plugs 3013. I am getting ready to install them and change my wires and wanted feedback.

The plugs are the cheapest part, so i'm not looking to skimp. I'm a daily driver and kick it down every once in a while. i'm not going to the track. I'm looking for decent performance, good gas mileage and longevity. Any opinions would be appreciated. These plugs any good or would you recommend something else?

p.s. would you guys go with the stock gap?
93 mark8
thanks
 
I would get the motorcraft awsf 22c plug.
Champion is crap in my opinion.

Gap them at about 50
 
my take on Champion

A funny thing about Champion spark plugs, Champion manufactures spark plugs for just about every one out there. they manufacture just about all of AC's plugs infact the AC stands for non other then Arnald Champion. Champion makes plugs for NGK as well and I could be wrong but I think Accel also has some plugs by Champion.
Edelbrock has joined with Champion because they feel they supply the correct and best performing spark plugs for all applications.
I know Champion sold some crap for years but they are past that all and now produce some of the best plugs and wires around
I also understand Champion produces Volvos plug wires.
 
I would recommend autolite 764's gapped to .48 --- assuming you want decent performance --
 
I've had just about every plug known to man in my Mark VII's.
Autolites seem to give me the best results. Even better than the high dollar ones like Splitfire and Bosch Platinums
 
I concur on the Autolite's. Heck for a buck at Walmart, you can't do wrong. You can afford to change them every month just for something to do,:Beer like drink beer and stare at your engine.
 
Heres the low down on the colder plugs I suggested.
Our cars use a knock sensor that picks up spark knock(detonation)
They have them becasue they are pone to detonate.The reason I use the colder plugs is because when the sensor detects knock it retards the timing to not hurt the engine.
Well when it pulls back timing it effectively pulls out power.So when you have a colder plug you have less of a chance to run into the knock sensors and keep your timing and power where they belong.
I have personally seen 7-10 RWHP on a dyno by simply switching from new factory heat range plugs to a colder plug.

I get the AWSFA-12C plugs which are 2 heat ranges colder for 1.67 a plug
 
I didnt know that Chris -- cool -- maybe ill switch.



unstoppable said:
Heres the low down on the colder plugs I suggested.
Our cars use a knock sensor that picks up spark knock(detonation)
They have them becasue they are pone to detonate.The reason I use the colder plugs is because when the sensor detects knock it retards the timing to not hurt the engine.
Well when it pulls back timing it effectively pulls out power.So when you have a colder plug you have less of a chance to run into the knock sensors and keep your timing and power where they belong.
I have personally seen 7-10 RWHP on a dyno by simply switching from new factory heat range plugs to a colder plug.

I get the AWSFA-12C plugs which are 2 heat ranges colder for 1.67 a plug
Click to expand...
 
My understanding is the Autolite 764 is one step colder than stock AWSF-32s.

Having said that, now the choice is not only heat range but material also. A lot of people shun copper plugs, wanting platinums, silver or iridiums for the pizzazz factor. IMHO copper is the best performance and most certainly the least costly. Being this economical, fresh new plugs beat old exotic plugs any day of the week.

Anyone else do this?
plugmod.jpg


Notice the top plug's electrode compared to the standard one at the bottom. I gapped these Autolite copper plugs at 0.048". Then I filed back the electrode and then radiused the end of the electrode. This is done to improve spark exposure and flame front for better and more complete combustion. Some call it the nitrous mod.
 
If anybody gets some dyno time, that would be a great experiment. Start with the stock plugs, then go 1 degree colder with the autolites and then 2 degrees colder with the AWSFA-12C Plugs as recommended by Chris. Seems like alot of guys making more than stock power take the 2 step colder approach. There has to be something to it. I personally would love to see the dyno numbers.
 
I believe I have seen dyno sheets from 'stangs showing the added power of a colder plug. As well as numbers on the nitrous plug mod. I used to have 'em in my 'favorites' list, but alas that was a computer crash or two ago.
 
driller said:
Anyone else do this?


Notice the top plug's electrode compared to the standard one at the bottom. I gapped these Autolite copper plugs at 0.048". Then I filed back the electrode and then radiused the end of the electrode. This is done to improve spark exposure and flame front for better and more complete combustion. Some call it the nitrous mod.
Click to expand...

yes, I did this for my 89 LSC. It is supposed to help with low end torque....dyno test i saw gained over 20 lb/ft below 2500 rpm :D
 
Spark Plug Mods

Will this work on older model Lincoln engines such as the 460 and 462-although the newly rebuilt 462 in one of my '67's has enough torque to smoke the tires in second gear-passes everything but a gas station-lucky I own an oilfield in Wyoming! :rolleyes:
 
BRIAN O'KEEFE said:
Will this work on older model Lincoln engines such as the 460 and 462-although the newly rebuilt 462 in one of my '67's has enough torque to smoke the tires in second gear-passes everything but a gas station-lucky I own an oilfield in Wyoming! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Sure it will work. I remember it from years back(I'm talkin' 70's), long before platinums, iridiums, split-fires...
 
I wouldn't put Champion's in my Lawn mower.

Bryan, how do you think I came to the conclusion that the 764's worked best?
 
The knock sensors enable a more agressive timing. The main use of the ks is to allow the engine to operate safely without knock if you run regular gas not the premium (91+) recommended on the inside of your gas filler door and manual. Or as the engine builds up contaminets over time or lower quality gas or hot weather etc.. Using lower temp plugs and thermostat without a chip programmed for it if it stops knock is simply hiding a problem. Like taking nyquil doesn't actually cure a cold it hides the symtoms. the colder an engine runs the less efficently it operates. Colder plugs are mainly for using a colder themostat say 180 so the plugs operate more effictivly at that colder range. Used alone they shouldn't be necessary. p.s. the 98 cv for example doesn't have the ks and so makes a bit less power and recommends only 87. 7-10 rwhp would be almost 30-40 crank. That is hard to believe comparing new plugs which don't have a problem with them and are gapped the same and changing nothing else.

unstoppable said:
Heres the low down on the colder plugs I suggested.
Our cars use a knock sensor that picks up spark knock(detonation)
They have them becasue they are pone to detonate.The reason I use the colder plugs is because when the sensor detects knock it retards the timing to not hurt the engine.
Well when it pulls back timing it effectively pulls out power.So when you have a colder plug you have less of a chance to run into the knock sensors and keep your timing and power where they belong.
I have personally seen 7-10 RWHP on a dyno by simply switching from new factory heat range plugs to a colder plug.

I get the AWSFA-12C plugs which are 2 heat ranges colder for 1.67 a plug
Click to expand...
 
ONEBADMK8 said:
I wouldn't put Champion's in my Lawn mower.

Bryan, how do you think I came to the conclusion that the 764's worked best?
Click to expand...
Raises hand. Would that be trial and error, sir?
 
How delicate is the work to file down the plugs?

Just use regular files, or sandpaper. Sorry im new to performance i usually keep to electrical.

Big Joe
 
Yep, file and sandpaper till you get a nice rounded edge similar to the one pictured a few posts back. Pretty easy to do.
 
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